Please help with Aerobic pump constantly running


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Old 09-12-12, 07:47 AM
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Please help with Aerobic pump constantly running

Ok gonna try to explain this the best i can. I have an aerobic system and from day one i have complained to my home builder that the pump wasn't working right but they wouldn't do anything to fix my problem (problem was pump was always spraying during the day) they tested floats and checked timer said everything was right. Well last week my pump went out, so i ordered a new one and installed it yesterday, here is where i think i have found my problem, My system has 3 float switches, the one at the pump itsself to shut the pump off when tank is drained low enough, middle float which turns on the pump if the water in the tank gets too high, and the top most float that sounds an alarm if something fails and the tank fills to high. My problem is my pump is coming on when the bottom float goes to the upright position, i have checked my timer its set according to the directions of the manufacturer and i even tried disconnecting the leg off the timer that is suppose to activate the system during its run times but the pump still comes on when the lower float is up. My thought is something is wired wrong in the box that connects all this together. Is there any way some one can send me a wiring diagram of how these are suppose to be wired? Or is someone can explain to me how to properly wire the floats inside of the junction box, (the box with the breakers and timer). Thanks for the help!!
 
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Old 09-12-12, 08:28 AM
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It would help if you provided information about what you have (brand and model of controller).

Also confirm that your float switches are the correct type for your system; normally open or normally closed. Normally open (switch closes/on when float is up and is off when down) are the most common for septic systems.
 
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Old 09-12-12, 08:42 AM
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The tank is an Aqua Aire Model # AA500-4075 Class1 Size 500 GPD

The control panel was made by : Control panels and Alarms Model 203

Don't know the brand on the floats, there are 3 individual floats can't really give any more info than that.
 
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Old 09-12-12, 09:18 AM
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IMO from what I know the first two floats turn the pump on and off. The second float is a precaution if the first float gets hung up. Then if the second float fails the third sound the alarm.

I may be wrong but that's what I remember.

I will poke around with the info you provided and see what I can find.
 
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Old 09-12-12, 09:54 AM
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I'm not finding anything for that controller. I wonder if it's a "no name" or locally branded control panel. Have you tried doing a search online for "septic controllers" or "septic control panel model 203" and look at the pictures for one that matches yours?
 
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Old 09-12-12, 02:42 PM
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Yes i actually found a wire diagram for my control box, the problem now is the installer used the same color wire for all the connections. Im thinking maybe he has the timer wired wrong. Any body familiure with the grasslin timers?
 
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Old 09-12-12, 04:53 PM
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What's your question about the timer and what model timer do you have?
 
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Old 09-13-12, 08:05 AM
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The grasslin is a FM/1 STUZH-L it has 5 conections on it 1-to neutral 2-high water alarm 3-pump 4-no conection 5-overide. Can any one tell me if these are going to the right spots for this timer?
 
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Old 09-13-12, 09:39 AM
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I would assume this is it?



www.poolandspastuff.com
 
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Old 09-13-12, 10:23 AM
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I don't have time to look at it quickly but there should be two contacts on your timer that always receive power to operate the timer. They are the silver connections in the photo Lawrosa provided.

Outside of that you will have a common #3. The right most gold/brass colored contact which is connected to #4 or #5 depending on the timer. One contact is normally open the other is normally closed.

I'll try to look more closely tonight.
 
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Old 09-13-12, 05:16 PM
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Yes thats the timer that i have, how do i know if the override wire should go to normaly open or normaly closed
 
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Old 09-14-12, 05:17 AM
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It all depends on the rest of the controls in your box. Electronics and relays can both take their commands from normally open or closed contacts. About the only thing you know for sure is that contacts #1 & 2 need to have power all the time and #3 is either connected to power or ground all the time. This leaves you with #4 & 5 to figure out. Luckily with just two it's pretty easy to swap them and see if you get the results you expect.
 
 

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