Where can I get a shallow well cap?
#1
02-22-13, 11:52 PM
Where can I get a shallow well cap?
I have been googling this for a long time and I am not able to find anything.
I am looking for a 2 foot diameter shallow well concrete cap.
I'd like to see if there are options for buying one on the internet because it will probably be a monster to find locally.
Thanks
I am looking for a 2 foot diameter shallow well concrete cap.
I'd like to see if there are options for buying one on the internet because it will probably be a monster to find locally.
Thanks
#2
02-23-13, 04:00 AM
Do you know how much these things weigh?? How about shipping costs? I would venture to say any well supply place would be able to direct you to a purchase point. Not everything on the internet is friendly.
#4
02-23-13, 04:38 AM
Group Moderator
Even in my small southern town there is a septic tank manufacturer that makes caps, risers and anything else you might want. A cap like you want is quite inexpensive and shipping one would cost several times what the cap does.
#5
02-23-13, 01:32 PM
The well cap
Make one. Two foot diameter/4 inches thick. 3 or 4 bags of fresh concrete mix, 3 or four pieces of # 4 rebar, whatever you can find to make a 2' form, a strip of very thin plywood a strip of formica or whatever. flatten out a spot on the ground, or use a piece of plywood, spray it with WD40 so it wont stick to it, pour and wait a few days {preferably 7] and there you have it. Just use enough water to wet the concrete, the less water, the stronger. And it is going to be buried so it doesen't have to pretty, just strong.
Sid
Sid
#7
02-23-13, 03:38 PM
Dont forget the handles !
You could get some rebar bent to go thru the concrete and come up on each side to provide some handles.. the lid is gonna weigh 150lb or so.
You could get some rebar bent to go thru the concrete and come up on each side to provide some handles.. the lid is gonna weigh 150lb or so.
#8
02-23-13, 11:53 PM
I forgot about the weight....duh!
Thanks for reminding me.
I'll check around locally and see what I can come up with or use one of the alternatives described.
Appreciate it!
Thanks for reminding me.
I'll check around locally and see what I can come up with or use one of the alternatives described.
Appreciate it!
#9
03-02-13, 10:20 PM
Guys, I will get the pic when I can. In the meantime, I don't want to distract from my original goal....I need some thoughts on what to cover the well cover with to ensure that no mice get in.
Doing this right may need to get kicked down the road.
Can you guys please help me with thoughts on a cover for the cover?
Thanks
Doing this right may need to get kicked down the road.
Can you guys please help me with thoughts on a cover for the cover?
Thanks
#10
03-03-13, 04:03 AM
Where do your supply pipes exit the well? The side, or top? If the side, you may need to grout around the pipe as mice can dig dirt and enter around the hole provided for the supply lines. Don't silicone it, as mice chew through it. Grout it with concrete, preferably from the outside if you can dig down to it.
Have you measured for a 55 gallon drum? Will it fit over it? If so, cut it down to a reasonable size and place it over the well head and drive it into the dirt using a piece of 4x4 and a heavy hammer.
Pictures will shed new light on it, and you have a phone. Take a pix, email it to yourself and post it.
Have you measured for a 55 gallon drum? Will it fit over it? If so, cut it down to a reasonable size and place it over the well head and drive it into the dirt using a piece of 4x4 and a heavy hammer.
Pictures will shed new light on it, and you have a phone. Take a pix, email it to yourself and post it.
#11
03-03-13, 09:57 PM
Thanks Chandler...I will get her done. I have a square slab around the well to prevent runoff (not sure what you call that thing). So I can't hammer it into the ground. It would have to sit on the concrete.
I think the supply pipes exit on the side. Good idea!
Where can I get a 55 gallon drum? Lowes? I know that I have to measure it first.
I think the supply pipes exit on the side. Good idea!
Where can I get a 55 gallon drum? Lowes? I know that I have to measure it first.
#12
03-04-13, 03:53 AM
Hard to say if a cut drum sitting on a slab will be mouse proof, it's probably not that level.. so you will be back to square one.
(btw, if you do opt for a drum and are going to cut it.. beware volatile vapours in empty drums ! Many people have been injured/killed by vapour explosions while cutting an "empty" steel drum)
How about that heavy gasket stuff that they use to assemble well tiles ? You could build that around the rod and then lay it along the lip of the existing tile before you lay the lid down. It compresses to a pretty dense goop (maybe mouse proof ?).
A roll of it shouldnt be much more than $25.
It might make a bit more work when you have to lift the lid off in the future, and you would have to replace it again then.. but maybe thats an option ?
(btw, if you do opt for a drum and are going to cut it.. beware volatile vapours in empty drums ! Many people have been injured/killed by vapour explosions while cutting an "empty" steel drum)
How about that heavy gasket stuff that they use to assemble well tiles ? You could build that around the rod and then lay it along the lip of the existing tile before you lay the lid down. It compresses to a pretty dense goop (maybe mouse proof ?).
A roll of it shouldnt be much more than $25.
It might make a bit more work when you have to lift the lid off in the future, and you would have to replace it again then.. but maybe thats an option ?
#13
03-04-13, 05:09 AM
You will need to find a local place that sells used barrels. That is not a building supply thing. Can you post a picture or two off the area? It might help us help you.
#14
03-04-13, 09:11 PM
Thanks everyone...will get the pics...thanks for the warning on the drums and the suggestion on the goop stuff as well.
Camera is acting up on phone and I have no flash...rarely near my well during the day so this is going to take a bit.
Camera is acting up on phone and I have no flash...rarely near my well during the day so this is going to take a bit.
#15
03-05-13, 09:37 PM
As requested....it was snowing out....
The square concrete slab area around the well (someone please give me a name for it) extends about 2 feet outside of the casing and is pretty flat and intact. It just happens to be pretty dirty due to there being a tree on top of it which drops debris all over it and is too expensive and large to cut down.
I think that my problem is pretty obvious as you can see below but I am scared to do crappy concrete work and have it just chip and fall off anyways.
Steel wool in those areas? I don't want to draw conclusions spend eons fixing my problem only to still have mice coming in from some unknown tiny crevice.
I think the barrel is still my best bet in that case.
Thoughts?
The square concrete slab area around the well (someone please give me a name for it) extends about 2 feet outside of the casing and is pretty flat and intact. It just happens to be pretty dirty due to there being a tree on top of it which drops debris all over it and is too expensive and large to cut down.
I think that my problem is pretty obvious as you can see below but I am scared to do crappy concrete work and have it just chip and fall off anyways.
Steel wool in those areas? I don't want to draw conclusions spend eons fixing my problem only to still have mice coming in from some unknown tiny crevice.
I think the barrel is still my best bet in that case.
Thoughts?
#16
03-06-13, 05:42 AM
Group Moderator
I have/had a well similar to that on one of my rental houses. It too had problems with mice squeezing through the gap between the lid and riser. Also, there was no pitless adapter like yours and the only way to access the pipe connections was to winch someone down the hole. I ended up having a new well drilled to avoid the maintenance and safety problems.
In you're situation I might try getting steel wool like used for wood working. Unravel it and form a gasket around the top lip of your riser. Then set the lid down with the steel wool sandwiched in between. Mice will not dig or chew through it and it will allow the lid to be easily removed for servicing.
In you're situation I might try getting steel wool like used for wood working. Unravel it and form a gasket around the top lip of your riser. Then set the lid down with the steel wool sandwiched in between. Mice will not dig or chew through it and it will allow the lid to be easily removed for servicing.
#17
03-06-13, 09:44 AM
Hey PilotDane...what is a pitless adapter? Figures that you would have that issue...same region! lol
Also, will any steel wool work? I have a post in somewhere in another thread where if I vaguely remember not every single type of steel wool will work. I bought a bag from lowes years ago and still have some left over....but for some reason can't remember why I haven't used the whole bag....I either have some of the fine stuff or course stuff laying around.
Thanks for your help.
Also, will any steel wool work? I have a post in somewhere in another thread where if I vaguely remember not every single type of steel wool will work. I bought a bag from lowes years ago and still have some left over....but for some reason can't remember why I haven't used the whole bag....I either have some of the fine stuff or course stuff laying around.
Thanks for your help.
#18
03-06-13, 10:07 AM
Group Moderator
A pitless adapter is what should have been installed on wells like yours but unfortunately never were. It allows you to pull the pump or down the well piping from above ground while keeping all the piping well below grade to prevent freezing. It has a dove tail fitting & gasket that makes the connection for the water and there is a female threaded hole on top you can stick a male threaded pipe into to pull everything up for servicing.
The well on my rental house in addition to mice falling in the well had the foot valve down at the bottom of the well fail. No plumber or well company in my area would send someone down the well and I was not going to hang by a rope down in the well 20' above the water so a modern drilled well was one of the better options... if you forget the cost.
Use whatever steel wool you have. You can use double sided foam tape or glue to hold it in place. I unrolled a bunch of steel wool. Ran a bead of caulk around the well casing top and then stuck a good sized "worm" of steel wool into the caulk. Then sat the lid on top.
The well on my rental house in addition to mice falling in the well had the foot valve down at the bottom of the well fail. No plumber or well company in my area would send someone down the well and I was not going to hang by a rope down in the well 20' above the water so a modern drilled well was one of the better options... if you forget the cost.
Use whatever steel wool you have. You can use double sided foam tape or glue to hold it in place. I unrolled a bunch of steel wool. Ran a bead of caulk around the well casing top and then stuck a good sized "worm" of steel wool into the caulk. Then sat the lid on top.
#19
03-09-13, 10:28 PM
Thanks for that. I set the steel wool in there but before you posted I just wedged it in there. I don't plan on removing the cover much anymore since everything is now sitting pretty nicely with no visible room for intrusion. I guess I have to remember to use some long nose to pull it out before I lift the cap again.
I just tested my well with a ~$30 DIY Well test kit. No bacteria and all of the other specs were pretty nice actually!
I hope it stays that way without the mice!
I just tested my well with a ~$30 DIY Well test kit. No bacteria and all of the other specs were pretty nice actually!
I hope it stays that way without the mice!
#20
03-31-13, 01:41 PM
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keep mice out
get a can of that expanding foam stuff they sell at Home Depot for sealing up air leaks around door sills/ windows.....costs like $7 and is in the area where they sell doors.....shoot the whole gap between the existing concrete pieces....you just have to redo it every time you open the cover (but that should be once every 5-10 years)
