Not even sure where to start, I have a submersible pump approx 90ft deep,new house construction, we have been living in our shed building this new house and have had water all the way up to a week ago in both the new house and the shed where we are living. The plumber came out to move the pressure tank back under the step so it was out of the way and when he hooked everything up he said you have no water, my husband asked if he wired it back correctly he said he thought so and went back in the utility room the next thing you know sparks are coming out the fuse box because he went back in and rewired the other way. well we replaced the switch 20/40. but no water the tank gets to 100lbs we shut it down because we don't want the lines to bust. where we are living we have water same well. we also have a hydrant hooked in their and it lays about 5ft from the well. we have had some one out to run snake and they ran it the 100ft and clear line. what could it be what else can we try. no one knows everyone is scratching their heads. because we get water to one building but not the other. we thinking we are going to have to dig everything up. some one please help ps. I used the water in the house that morning before the plumber moved it.

 

20/40 switch seems a little low on the cut in side, but if that is what you have, then so be it. Have you adjusted the cut out on the switch, yet. Don't rely on the factory setting to be the gospel. How did he rewire it wrong? There would only be two wires if it were running on 240 volts. I don't understand how you are getting 100 psi of pressure in your tank but no water. Fill us in.

 

So, originally, the line came from the well to the shed and thats where the pressure tank was ? From there, some output lines went to the hydrant and to the new house ?
Now, the pressure tank is moved to the new house. I would assume he hooked up the pump line in the shed to the house line, and now the shed and hydrant are disconnected ?
What indicates 100psi ? A gauge at the pressure tank ?
Is there not a drain valve right at the pressure tank ? What happens when you open it .. no water ? What happens to the pressure gauge when you open it (or any valve nearby) ?

Did anyone add air pressure to the pressure tank ? The air side (small tire valve on the tank) should only be within a coupla psi of the cut-in pressure of the pressure switch. If someone charged the tank up with a shop compressor to 100psi, this could be an issue..

 

OK, we had a old house that we tore down kept the old water line set the pressure tank outside running so we could get water to the back shed. the shed line is about 6yrs old. when the basement was poured we put the tank back in the basement always had water. as the construction was getting to the end and everything was being added to the utility room like furnace and stuff we wanted the pressure tank moved back under the steps so it was out of the way. I used the water that morning out of the tank the drain valve the plumber showed up to put the water heater in and stuff and moved the tank back for us. when he hooked it up he came and said no water my husband had asked him did he hook it up right he said he thought so plumber went back into the room and my husband did not he was in the basement talking to the heat guys and all of a sudden sparks bright light came from the fuse box, the plumber came out and said oops that wasn't right. he called a well guy they came out put on another switch for us but still no water. when they turn the tank on the pressure builds to 100psi but no water it won't shut off. the well won't shut off. so they took the tank out of the basement and brought it back to the shed where we are living and we have water. and everything works fine back here but no water to the house. when they ran cold water through the line they were thinking maybe it froze. but it ran all the way to the well. and I had water that morning.

 

I've read thru your posts three times and can not get a clear picture of what you have there.

My question is.... you had an ACTUAL plumber there or was it like a friend doing the work for you ?

You had a well company come out and change the pressure switch. They turn the system on and the pressure goes to 100 psi and won't shut the pump off ?? ..... and they don't know why ??

 

Ok.. so lets see if I have this right..

Right now, the water pipeline is from the well to the new house and then connected to the line back to the shed. The pressure tank is at the shed end now, and its working fine. What kind of pressure is showing ?

What happened when you disconnected the tank to move it to the shed ? Was there actually 100 psi of water in it ? 100psi of air ?

Why did the well guy leave without figuring out the problem ?

Did you put a new electrical panel in the new house ? One oddball thing that can happen is that people figure they have a 220v circuit on a double pole breaker, but the breaker is actually 2x120v (same side of line) so you would actually have 0v across the 2 hots. But, that would not explain the 100psi..

Maybe you have the correct 220v (assuming thats what the pump needs), and wired the switch wrong so it wont shut off.. but then why is it working fine at the shed ?

That being said.. at the new house, with 100psi showing, you should have had something coming out of a tap/etc.. 100psi of air or 100psi of water. Is this a standard round pressure gauge ?

Id be tempted to do a test.. get some fittings and run a garden hose or such from the shed line back to the house over the ground. If you connect that at the house to where the pressure tank would connect, you should get some water from a sink etc. There wont be much pressure, but it should be something. If not, then maybe the plumber made a mistake in there somewhere ?

Sure sounds like a puzzle..

 

Yes we had a real plumber we had a well company come out, we had a pumping and plumbing company come out and no water to the house the well company said when the plumber rewired the well wrong he blew the switch so they put a new one on. but still no water when we turn the the switch on the tank it starts building pressure but no water so that's when they said come have someone snake the line so we did nothing line is clear. I was wondering if maybe we have a check valve someplace that froze up or locked from when it was wired wrong and it followed the electrical wires back to the well but then it doesn't explain how we get water to the shed

 

100psi is what the gage said on the tank the well guy said shut it off because we could burst the lines with that much pressure. when you say sounds like a puzzle yep no one can figure out what happened. the pressure in the tank now sits at 50psi with no water running.in the shed

 

If you have a line running underground between buildings and you don't get water thru it.....yes.....it could be plugged.

If the well guy is there.....at the tank and pressure switch location.......and see's the pressure rise to 100psi....he should be able to troubleshoot why it's not shutting off. I don't understand what the mystery is.

 

[ATTACH=CONFIG]11491[/ATTACH] I drew a pic of where everything sits hopes this helps a computer pro I am not

 

Ok.....you get water from the well to the shed but not from the well to the house....is that correct ?

The well is 240v and I'm guessing has always gotten it's power from the house even when it was feeding the shed......is that correct ?

There is no wire in the shed that has anything to do with the well,

 

We have a shallow well with the pump in the house, so I dunno if this is a silly thought or not but..

Is it possible for a deep well line to get air locked ?

To check, move the tank back into the house , plumb and wire it up. Open the drain valve at the tank and turn the breaker on. Some air may come out, and once water starts coming out steady then close valve and watch pressure gauge. Basically a bleeding operation.

This is sorta grasping at straws now, 'cause you already had 100psi of 'something' .. and that should have shut the pressure switch off. Maybe yours wont shut off for air ?


Im thinking you also have an issue with the house plumbing.. is there a softener or filter etc that might be closed off and preventing house water in the first place ?

 

as far as I know the plumber was their to hook everything up but I don't think he got that far having the house hooked to it yet. the tank was in the basement with the water line from outside hooked to it. i'm not sure if it would work but it could be worth a try hook everything back up in the house. we never got to the point where we ever ran water through the faucets in the house all the water we ever used was through that drain valve we had a hose hooked to it and I would fill a bucket of water to use.

 

yes everything you say is right.they ran a separate electric line laying on the ground right now running from the well to the back shed to run the tank back here for us it looks like the wires are hooked up somewhere in the cap of the well.

 

Hmm.. ok, the house plumbing is out then.. you were using water right outa the pressure tank when it was at the house.
I can't think of anything else other than that 100psi had to be an air column ahead of the water column and it just needed to be bled out so the pipe could fill with water.
Then again.. you'd think a plumber would know that.

 

as much as all these people got paid yes you would think anyone of them would know. the plumber left right after he called the well guy and he hasn't been back nor has he called to see how things were going if we even got water yet. nice plumber

 

I have one question though right now the waterline that comes from the well runs into the basement that was hooked to the tank is just lying now on the floor. would this not let the air escape out. when they had the tank in the basement they turned that valve on the drain valve and no water came out but the pressure kept rising are you saying do all that again just at a slower pace instead of wide open.

 

Well, no.. the air wouldnt come out unless the pipe was full of water, in which case you would have water on the floor of your basement.
When you switched that tank back to the shed, did they not disconnect the pipe going to the house from the well and put the pipe on that goes to the shed ? If so, then the pipe from the well to the house is just empty.
Possibly someone put a 3 way fitting in there, at the well, to feed both the shed and the house at the same time.

Now that you're saying the pressure tank valve was open in the house and yet the pressure gauge was reading 100psi.. this is odd.
The gauge is a standard gauge that fits near the switch and tank right ? Not some remote-reading deal via wires ?
If you actually had 100psi of air in the tank and opened the valve you would know it, it would be a pretty loud whistle.

I had thought for a bit that maybe with a 3-way fitting (at the well), maybe you were somehow making a vacuum and the needle actually moved backwards to the 100psi needle reading area.. but, opening that valve at the tank would have allowed air into the system and dropped that vacuum anyhow.

Im stumped..

 

ok I hope I understand what your saying, the waterline running to the shed is about 6 years old the water line running to the house is well I guess i'm not sure how old we have own the place 10 yrs so I know it is older then that. no one ever did any work in the well itself. I am thinking you might be right about a 3 way back when we put the line in for the shed 6yrs ago yes 1 pressure tank ran the shed and the house. I am stumped too as other people. what if we back filled the line with water sorta like siphoning think that would work. something I forgot to mention not sure if it matters but the hydrant which is about 5 ft away won't open up the handle will only go half way up and we can't get water out of that could all that be locked with too much air in the lines.

 

At this point, filling up the house pipe with water wouldnt hurt, worth a test.
When you do re-try the tank at the house, keep a keen eye on the pressure gauge.That fill water should at least fill up the tank to 40 or 50psi and then stop.
Open up the drain valve at the tank and as the water flows out the pressure should drop to 20 or 30psi and the pump will turn back on.
After you move the tank but before you hook it up at the house, check the air pressure side of it with a tire gauge.. check that its set for 20psi for now. There might be a black plastic domed cap on the top.. just pry that off and there will be a schreader valve (tire valve).

 

if that doesn't work could we fill the line with water back fill and then try the tank or would that not work I am just trying to think of other things to try when I unhook everything back here and bring it up to the house.

 

so you paid them for not fixing the problem you called them for?

evidently you called some real pinheads. without seeing it personally, i think we are just shooting in the dark. feel free to take a bunch of pics of everything, post it all up. maybe that will shed some light, as i'm still pretty confused.

 

I was thinking about this if the line is vapor locked and having the tank back here isn't it now pushing the air or water the other way now? instead of from the house to the shed it is now she to the house with all the pressure going the other way?

 

Yes I paid a bunch of idiots to come tell me what I already knew I had no water after the plumber rewired the tank when he moved it. I just want water so I can move into my new house. what kind of pics would you like? I took one of my temporary set up in the back.

 

Thats alot of pipes and hoses there !

Looks like a standard pressure gauge beside the pressure switch housing.
One of those hoses probably feeds the shed, and one pipe from the well.
Not sure what the rest are ?

 

The other hoses feed a washer and a shower and sink this is now set up where we are living, before we just had the hose hook to the hydrant back here now the hydrant is hooked to the tank back here. now would the back flow going the other way release the vapor lock if that was the case ?

 

Im no expert on vapour lock, but I dont suspect that's the case.
I just suspect that depending on how you hooked lines up and opened/closed valves, maybe the water ran back down from the house towards the well or shed.. causing the needle on the pressure gauge to move backward to the +100psi point.

My reasoning was, I dont think that most deep pumps can develop 100psi.. and even if yours actually did, you should have had water coming out or even pipes flying off due to pressure.

Even though its a pain, I think you want/need to get that pump into the house soon. When you do, and before you power the pump on , note the pressure gauge reading. Open the tank valve (put in bucket or put hose on it out window etc). Check gauge again. Turn the pump on and watch the needle.. it shouldnt move much while you wait for the water to come. Once water starts coming out, turn valve off and the pressure should climb slowly to 40 or 50psi and then turn off. If it keeps climbing, then turn the breaker off and look at the gauge again.. it should be holding at the pressure you turned it off at. Now, try opening the valve again and watch needle.. at 20 or 30psi, the the switch should click and pressure starts rising again, clicking off at 40 or 50.

 

"I think you want/need to get that pump into the house soon"

You mean the tank? Pumps are much more efficient pushing than they are pulling. Keeping the pump close to the well is done for a reason.

I prefer having the tank and gauge inside the house where I can keep an eye on it and I can hear it. Putting it is a handy place can give a heads up before you open the faucet one morning to make coffee and nothing comes out.

 

Yes, the tank for sure.. not pump. I got word fumbled.. hehe.

Im hoping there isnt some important clue that we dont know about in this one..