Hello I recently put a new 1 hp submersible pump. It work fine for two days. This morning I got up and had no water. Went out side check the breaker and it was off I click on but it shut off again. We never had this problem with the old pump. The only different thing is we put s 30/50 pressure switch rather than the 20/40 it originally had. Some people say i shouldn't do that and others say it was a good idea. My question is would the problem be I put in that 30/50 switch instead of the 20/40 it originally had? Please help we just spend some money getting this done Monday and now we have no water

Help I need advice on a water flooding issue due to high water table. I live on the shore of Lake Huron. There is a 65 foot wooded sloping drop to the water in my backyard (30 degrees). The lake bank is clay but the soil around and under the house is all sand down to the footing. There seems to be a high water table and maybe even a seasonal underground Spring that runs all year. As odd as it sounds, the clay bank seems to impede the water running to the lake although I have seen at least one natural spring in the lake bank. The house is a large ranch style that was my grandparents. Built in 1962 the basement has flooded since at least 67 when my family acquired it (maybe always). The attraction is the spectacular lake view. I moved in last year. To prevent future floodings, I had a contractor put in a new weeping tile system on most of the basement walls. On one wall in particular the old tile was plugged with Spruce tree roots. In that location an inside pit was added with a sump pump. We could not get at some of the foundation footings under the garage and a cement porch. However, there will no roots under there. The outlet draining the new system is gravity based and runs to the bank. The outflow is now running good and strong when it rains (like a bathtub faucet!!). All eves trough gutters are also now drained to the lake bank. Last summer three basement wall cracks were patched inside and out with hydraulic cement and a plastic dimpled membrane was put against the exterior wall and a tar-like substance added to stick it to the wall. [U][/U][B]The problem[/B]. This month we had the most rain for an April in our location in 10 years. The water table apparently rose faster than the weeping tile could absorb. Moisture pushed up through floor cracks in three places. It was not a flood more like damp patches. They are about a foot in from the walls of the house in a location furthest away from the sump pump which has been running about 8 times a day for about 10-20 seconds only. The wet patches were very near the walls that we could not get at from the outside. They are also the areas of traditional flooding. This area of the basement was left unfinished when we renovated last summer for that reason. In newly finished areas elsewhere in the basement the subfloor is an inert plastic dimpled medium having many air pockets. This is my guess as to the likely cause(s) of the recent water coming in. • Seasonal water table higher at one end of the house than the other. • Water rises faster than the weeping tile can carry it away. • Once water gets under the house to drain away it has to first pass through the sand and whatever else is under the house. • The one sump pump we installed is only draining a small area under the house at the highest point. [U][/U][B]The proposed solution[/B]: Here is what my contractor (who is reputable and has consulted with an excavation specialist) is now suggesting. • Cutting into the floor and installing a partial inside perimeter drain against the walls that we could not get at from the outside in the location where the dampness is located. • The drain will be composed of 6” corrugated weeping tile with a sock to keep sand out. • The drain will exit the house under the footing of an exterior wall, towards the lake bank via a trench dug in the back yard and through the bank clay. A portion of it will also have holes in it to help take water outside the house away and down the bank. • At the other end (inside the house) of the perimeter drain a pit will be installed. It should drain any areas under the basement we can’t get at because of a finished bedroom. If all else fails a 2nd sump could be placed in that pit later. • Next time when it rains hard and the water table rises the water pressure under the house should force the water into the new inside perimeter drain rather than up into the floor. Gravity will do the rest and carry it away. • Because the perimeter drain works by gravity it should continue to take water away even in a power outage (unlike simply adding 1 or 2 more standalone sump pumps with no inside drain). • The cost will be just under 10,000 all in and include re-grading my back yard to help surface water drain over the bank. [B]What do folks think about this solution[/B]? I am no engineer. Frankly if not this I don’t know what else to try. This April the rainfall was 120 millimetres but in past years in other months it has been as high as 200 mm. My concern is that if I do nothing we will get a downpour and the high water table will push up through the floor causing water to run under the subfloor in the newly finished rec-room and basement bedroom areas of the basement. This used to happen in the past causing mould which is why I gutted the basement last summer. My father went the sump pump route in the late 70s after adding the first rec-room and immediately experiencing flooding. The 2 sump pumps he later added only solved 80% of the problem and entirely failed one December in a rain/ice storm when a backup generator refused to start. However, even when working they did not seem to drain the problem areas very effectively (they seem to have had a limited “reach”). Any thoughts appreciated. Sorry for the length of this!