Water flow stops after replacing gould pump


  #41  
Old 05-01-13, 05:46 AM
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Isnt there a regulator on the side? Has a adjuster nut on it?
 
  #42  
Old 05-01-13, 05:50 AM
J
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if there are leathers then its a single line packer jet system. maybe a 2-3" well with packer jet, or i've even seen people install 2-3" sleeves into larger wells then install a packer in the sleeve (dont ask me why).

pictures are worth a thousand words with this one...
 
  #43  
Old 05-01-13, 05:59 AM
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Packers use the area between the well casing and the suction pipe as the drive water (pressure) pipe. The 2" or 3" well casing must be smooth and clean to insure a good seal with the packer leathers or the system will leak and not hold prime.



Here is a troubleshooting manual....

http://pacificcoastwell.com/files/co...jet%20pump.pdf
 
  #44  
Old 05-02-13, 04:10 PM
J
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The problem lawrosa is I don't lose prime. I thought I did once, but I think because I was so paranoid about ruining the pump I didn't run it long enough after I shut it down. The paragraph after that you quoted also caught my eye.
On 2" packers only: Use the Goulds Pumps turned couplings part #64655 to connect the sections of 1" threaded pipe. This special diameter turned coupling increases the clearance between the 2" well I.D. and the O.D. of the coupling to allow the drive (pressure) water to easily pass the couplings. Failure to use them will have a negative impact on pump performance, both pressure and gpm will decrease. The pump may easily lose prime while pumping due to the restriction!
It mentions losing prime, but it also mentions loss of pressure?

But I have new news! No, it's not fixed if that's what you're thinking, haha.
My feeling is I have 2 problems going on here. The pump not outputting full volume, and a leak somewhere in my irrigation system.
What I discovered yesterday is if I shut off the main water valve to the irrigation system and then shut electric power to my pump, the pump will hold pressure and the needle on the gauge won't move from where it was at. But if I open the water valve to the irrigation and shut power to the pump, the needle literally falls to zero within 2 minutes or less. Total loss of water pressure. So that must be a HUGE leak underground? Or a huge air pocket some where in my 11 zones?

The second problem still exists with my well somewhere though. The reason I say this is because when well guys #2 ran a garden hose directly from the pump (with the tank empty) the volume and pressure just wasn't there. The water shot out from his hose about 2 feet and slow. And I can still run out of water or very slow water from the house taps if I run it long enough not to mention we are not enjoying much for pressure coming out on average.

I have pictures
JackSoa's Library | Photobucket

Thanks for your advice all.
 
  #45  
Old 05-03-13, 07:20 AM
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Sprinkler guy came over and found the problem on the irrigation system. It was a zone valve causing a weep. He doesn't want to fix it until the well is straightened out because of any sediment that might get in there as the pump is being work on.
Well guy #1 coming back tomorrow. Stay tuned. .
 
 

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