Sewage Pump Has Me Stumped


  #1  
Old 07-09-13, 03:41 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Sewage Pump Has Me Stumped

Hello,
I have a sewage pump in my basement, to pump washer water/toilet/shower water out to septic.

For some reason when the tank fills up, and the float rises the sewage pump won't go off?

If I grab the pvc and lift up on it, the pump will start and the tank will drain accordingly, however if I forget then the water will backup in my basement.

I have taken the pump out, cleaned it, and checked for any obstructions either inside the pump, or near the float. I don't see anything that would cause a problem. I lifted the lid when the pump was connected to see if the float was stuck on the wall, and it was fine.

The float is going up and down, but just not kicking in unless I lift up on the PVC then it will start without issue.

This pump is only about 2yrs old, and is 3/4 hrp I believe, was told it was the best one they had at woolsey.

Is there a way I can fix the float, or do I have to buy another pump?

Thank you for your time
M
 
  #2  
Old 07-09-13, 04:24 AM
P
Group Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: NC, USA
Posts: 25,979
Received 1,776 Upvotes on 1,588 Posts
When you say the pump won't go off does that mean it is not turning on?
What is the PVC you are lifting to make it start pumping?
Why do you think you need a new pump when everything you describe is about the float?

With what you've said I suspect the float is going bad and should be replaced.
 
  #3  
Old 07-09-13, 05:19 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Sorry I should have said the pump won't kick on.
The PVC that is attached to the sewage pump and feeds to my septic tank, it comes straight up out of the holding tank in my basement then takes a 90 out to my septic.
I wasn't sure if I could fix/replace the float or do I have to replace everything?

Is replacing the float easy? Wonder if there are any videos online of how to do it? Don't mind trying, just not sure where to start when it comes to that part.

Thank you for your quick reply
 
  #4  
Old 07-09-13, 07:43 AM
lawrosa's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Galivants Ferry SC USA
Posts: 15,984
Received 79 Upvotes on 71 Posts
What kind of float???? I would say you have the canister type from your description... 2 plugs?

( You never know.. Just asking because I have seen the wrong pumps get installed)
 
  #5  
Old 07-09-13, 08:12 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
It's oval in shape about 5 inches long, 2-3 inches in diameter, has what looks like a power cord from the float to the pump, than another cord from the pump to the plug. I would call it the canister type in trying to describe it yes.
 
  #6  
Old 07-09-13, 08:20 AM
lawrosa's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Galivants Ferry SC USA
Posts: 15,984
Received 79 Upvotes on 71 Posts
You used to be able to open them up and change them... Now you just get a new swith..

What is the make of the pump? Model if you can get it... Get a new float...

Although I wonder if it has trouble starting and its a start capacitor issue.....?????

Dont want you to throw away money....
 
  #7  
Old 07-09-13, 11:58 AM
P
Group Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: NC, USA
Posts: 25,979
Received 1,776 Upvotes on 1,588 Posts
Some pumps have a gasketed cover that you can remove to install a new float switch while most newer ones are sealed. I have had good luck cutting off the old switch and wiring on a new one using well pump electrical connectors. Their heat shrink includes a sealant that makes the connections water proof. Floats are pretty generic with their only being normally open (NO) or normally closed (NC) types and there are some that can be wired to go either way.

The float switch is the more likely possibility but also pay attention to the motor. I have run into one that developed a bad spot. It would run perfectly 95% of the time, starting and stopping without trouble and long as it did not stop on the dead spot. If it stopped there it would not start but it would take off if you spun it off that spot. That required replacing the motor.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: