OK, had the septic tank pumped back in March of this year at our weekend rental cabin, and noticed when I flushed the toilet yesterday the shower gurgled. I knew in an instant what it was. Tank is full again and backing up.

I called one of our pumping guys and asked for his suggestions. Told him I didn't want to pump it out at $400 a pop more often than I have. Since I had my guys available we dug down and exposed both holes and opened her up. Inlet cap was cracked but we got it opened without dropping it in. Outlet end, one of my guys reached in with a hoe and pulled up a wad of roots. Well it kept coming, and kept coming. We removed the equivalent of two bodies of roots that were "growing" in there. I think we found Jimmy Hoffa Seems the outlet to the drain field is clogged with roots, so I'll have the pumper guy out to rooter them out, per his suggestion. May have it pumped anyway.

My question after the dissertation...If I use Copper sulphate to help curb the growth of the roots in the tanks, will I, or should I still use enzymes such as RidX to get them growing again from a fresh start?

 

What do you have there Larry? A tank and laterals? Seepage pits? Old cess pool?

Hmmmm.... Is that allowed in your area???

 

Well good luck with that idea.
They route out the leach field, then what?
You have a bunch of drain lines with cut off roots blocking the drain holes.
A properly designed and working septic system does not need Ridx.
Your going to end up spending a whole lot of money trying to save some money and find out you need a new leach field.
A big help would be to get rid of some of the trees growing to close to the house.

 

Mike it is a tank that is about 10' long and maybe 5' wide, deep? Don't know. Septic enters one end and exts the other to the leach field with a baffle in the middle. Baffles at entrance and at exit, looks like the size of a concrete block opening. Yeah, everyone is recommending copper sulphate to get rid of the roots. I don't think I will need any in the tank anymore, but my plan is to drive1 1/2" diameter pvc pieces into the ground, leaving them proud of the ground a couple of inches so I can put a little Copper Sulphate in each and chase it with a little water. This will be an attempt to kill the roots before they get to an opening in the tank. Roots were entering through the output side access hatch. It is all cleaned up, now.

Joe, the pump guy says the roots in the leach are most likely coming from the tank and not through the leach field, and should only go a maximum of 4 to 6 feet into the pipe. I agree, if the leach field is compromised, I will probably have to replace it. And, I know a "proper" tank is not supposed to need Ridx, but in my opinion, I have been killing the enzymes with the Cu2So4 and need a quick rejuvenator.

I took a pix of the burial site, but only for future reference. I can take a pix tomorrow and post it showing what type set up is, Mike. Thanks for all the input.

 

How old is everything? The cabin dont get used much right?

Your best off jetting the lines and stop using the copper IMO... Find the end of the laterals so the pumper could suck up the biomat when jetting..

Best stuff then to open it up is some type of hydrogen peeroxide 30% stuff..

You have D box?

Aid ox is the best but $$$$..... Need to follow directions and how many to buy.
Cess flo from the home store works well.
Pool sanitizer from the pool store is 30 %... Forgot name but same price as cess flo..



Rid X?? Never used it.. Waste O' $$ IMO...


Joe you ever have nice things to say????...

Roots grow without trees present FYI.....

 

Ooh thanks, Mike. I will look into these products. You say "jetting". Is that something to help get rid of the stuff in the leach or just the tank? By "d" box do you mean a box external from the septic tank? These roots are like a fine mesh about the size of pine needles. I think we got all the lateral roots since the mat was stuck to them.

 

At $400 a pump I would shop around.
Also while you have it dug up put some Polylok risers on the access holes.

Sounds like you have a 1000 gal std. septic tank & you can dump what ever you want in it, but it will not make a difference. In order for the solids to brake down they need to through an aerobic state & chemicals will not do that.

Standard septic tanks are nothing more than holding tanks that allow the liquid to drain off. They need to be pumped when they get too much solids in them. Which is normally 2 - 5 years depending on their use. Also septic tanks are always full.

Instead of going through all that work with the copper sulfate just remove what ever is causing the root problem.

 

Thanks for that advice, too. Makes sense. If tank is supposed to be full, the I will concentrate on the leach end

 

The leach field... You have laterals? PVC pipe with hols and rocks around it?


If you have laterals yes you should have a distribution box.. The septic outlet goes to the box and the box distributes to the laterals, usually 2 or 3...


Maybe you have one long lateral?

Anyway if they pump off the tank some say half and water comes back in from the laterals or field they you know the field is not taking effluent and is water locked...

Could be running toilet,,,, Bio mat build up,,,, clogged d box.....

If biomat then either a new field or try the jetting and peroxide....

 

And here read my novel... Best seller with 26k views....

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/we...lp-advice.html

 

And Larry,,,,, I only use root X... If you must use something use this...

You know how I am about the environment....

RootX : Homeowners : FAQs

 

Now that looks promising while we have it opened. RootX.

 

After giving it all a rest overnight, I revisited the site. Liquid level was straight across the bottom of both inlet and outlet pipes. Outlet pipe had no roots in it and after we ran a bunch of water through the cleanout, it seemed all that went in, went out at the same rate, so happy camping. Canceled the root cutting appointment. Will have to find an outlet for RootX. THanks to all for the input.

 

IMO at a minimum I would get 4 gallons of cess flo poured down the out pipe while its open..

I would also get a filter in that outlet pipe to keep the solids out... I guess you could stuff it in the pipe...

Cess flo at home store. Come in gallon wrapped in plastic.

Filter I guess on line unless you can find local...

On second thought from above, I would probably break that baffle on the outlet and get a tee on there for better filtration...

See Tee set up here.

Gravity Filters

 

Yeah, one of my plumber buddy's suggested a filter in the baffle. I like the idea of a tee and a filter. Seems it would be a cleaner way of doing it, with the tee sticking above grade with a threaded cap for access. Now I have to figure out how to exit the tank with the pvc, since it is directly under the exit hatch. Bore a hole in the hatch?? In theory, the hatch should never have to be removed again, since pumping can be accomplished from the entrance side. Keeping the outlet cleaner would be a bonus. I am assuming the filters are throw aways. I certainly would not want to clean one

 

I wash it off every three yrs... Good as new...LOL

This one will be 7yrs . Got to empty in spring... I will get a new one...

 

Think it would be best to core the hatch, or not? The one that cracked looks like aggregate concrete, and would be a bear to core at 8" or whatever it calls for. Why don't they make the hatches using rebar? Sure would make them sturdier. I found a local guy who custom makes them of all things What luck. Just give him the dimensions and which side is flat and presto. Ooh, have him make one with a hole, duh.

 

Could leave it open and put a 12" plastic riser on.... Lift the lid of the riser and bam... theres the tee and filter..

 

Put Polylok Risers on both ends ,break off baffle & put a Polylok PL-68 filter & tee on the outlet pipe.

No need to make the tee extend above the tank & if you put the risers on you no longer need the concrete access covers.

Do you really want to dig up the tank every time its pumped or the filter need cleaning.

 

OK, I'm getting great information from you guys and am really interested in new stuff. ATUMD, so you say they make a hatch made out of something besides puky concrete that will replace what I have, or will it be a different design. What I have is a 3 sided taper, one side straight 18 x 19 1/2" hatch on both ends. What will replace those? I looked on the link site and did not see anything that looked like a replacement.

My tank is about a foot deep. I am looking for a light weight, sealable cover to replace the hatches, AND incorporate a tee extension to the surface where I can screw in a clean out. Would that not work? And do any of the companies carry anything like that? I am really concerned with surface water entering the tank. Is that a real concern??

 

Yes it looks nothing like what you have

1st you have put an adapter ring on each hole Adapter Rings Polylok | & you need to get the adapter ring installation kit which is on the bottom right of the link I posted.

2nd you to get a 24" dia. X 12" high riser w/ screws for each hole

3rd you to get a 24" dia. riser cover w/ screws for each hole

I don't think Polylok will sell directly to you, but you can get them on line ( septic solutions sells them) or from a septic manufacture (that is where I get them).

If you need more than a foot the risers come in 6" & 12" high you just stack as many as you need.

 

You can leave them below grade... say these 8" ones...

I ordered from here before, they are pretty good....


Segmented Risers


Get proper covers and net...

Riser Covers

 

Y'allhave me on a mission, now! I am so glad I can ditch those 100 lb. boat anchors for a more sane cover. I got it, now. If I survive Denver (SIL has season tickets to Bronco game Sunday) and the high is something like 10, I will try to locate some of the stuff you mentioned. Thanks for all your help. I'll be back. If you think of anything else postit, please.

 

Update. Thanks for all the professional help, here. Although we had the tank excavated prior to my trip to Denver, we covered it with steel roofing and a little dirt until I was able to return. I studied the options while laid up in the hospital. Once I returned, I got a couple of 24" starter rings, a couple of 24" x 12" riser tubes and lids. We uncovered it all yesterday, cleaned the two openings and installed the rings, risers and caps, sealing it to the concrete, then putting a little foam around where the dirt would go. Then filled it in. Super happy with the results. Removing all the root mass a few weeks ago was the trick. It is percolating good and liquid is moving to the drain field as prescribed. I had 6 guests a week ago, and a couple in there until after Christmas, so I know there has been a bit of waste/water moving through it, successfully.

I bought a baffle replacement, but since it wasn't broken, I chose no to "fix" it right now. Won't be a problem later, though with access created by the risers.

thanks again!!!

 

What did you use larry???

Glad your feeling better too....

 

I used butyl rubber under the ring, and once we had it red headed into the concrete, I used expanding foam to form somewhat of a dirt barrier around the perimeter, then back filled it. The risers and caps locked in place and used screws to secure them.

 

Whats that yard hydrant for? Why so close to septic?

 

Oh, it's just a hydrant for spring water that comes off the mountain. It has a valve below ground to shut it off, and hasn't been used in years. I plan on eventually moving it to a more "opportune" place when I run new supply up the mountain. I had to cut a lateral that I wasn't aware of, and have no idea where it goes when we did the work on the tank, so it all gets moved.

 

Lateral of what? Leach field?

 

No, a lateral spring water supply that left that hydrant site and went right across the side of the septic tank. That's another reason it all gets moved. I only want one supply and one outlet. Spring water for wine, may be a good thing......