Water well JUST quit...
#1
12-24-13, 04:02 AM
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: United States of America
Posts: 393
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Water well JUST quit...
Desperately need help! As the title indicates, my well just quit providing water. I really would like for it not to be the pump - if it's in the electrical control, I can fix it. Either way, though, I need to know.
I have verified that the pressure switch is working - 242 VAC coming in from the breaker, 242 VAC going out to the control panel. I also show 242 VAC at the far left two terminals on the terminal strip, where the power comes in off the pressure switch. I show 121 VAC between each of the three pump wire terminals and the panel ground, but nothing between any two of the pump wire terminals. I won't even pretend to know what I ought to show at the start or run caps, the overload or the relay. This is where I need help.It seems like I should have 242 VAC across at least two wires going to the pump.
A neighbor of mine recently had to have his well drilled deeper because his water table had dropped and uncovered his pickup. I really hope I'm not about to run into the same situation. We have to go well over 250 feet to get to water around here. We're supposed to have a houseful of guests this evening, so any advice would be of the greatest value and truly appreciated. Thanks in advance - Chris
I have verified that the pressure switch is working - 242 VAC coming in from the breaker, 242 VAC going out to the control panel. I also show 242 VAC at the far left two terminals on the terminal strip, where the power comes in off the pressure switch. I show 121 VAC between each of the three pump wire terminals and the panel ground, but nothing between any two of the pump wire terminals. I won't even pretend to know what I ought to show at the start or run caps, the overload or the relay. This is where I need help.It seems like I should have 242 VAC across at least two wires going to the pump.
A neighbor of mine recently had to have his well drilled deeper because his water table had dropped and uncovered his pickup. I really hope I'm not about to run into the same situation. We have to go well over 250 feet to get to water around here. We're supposed to have a houseful of guests this evening, so any advice would be of the greatest value and truly appreciated. Thanks in advance - Chris
#3
12-24-13, 04:33 AM
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: United States of America
Posts: 393
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
I only know it's not a jet pump. At least I'm pretty sure - I can't see the pump. I'm pretty sure it's at the end of the pipe in the well casing. Pretty sure it's going to be a deep well pump of some sort - again, more than 250 feet down. About all I can say for sure is that it runs on (or SHOULD run on) 240 VAC. A three-conductor cable runs from the control panel to the pump one wire goes to each of three terminals on the strip, one is marked red, one is marked yellow and one is marked black. Wish I could tell more; I know it would help if I could.
#5
12-24-13, 05:01 AM
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: United States of America
Posts: 393
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
testing the windings according to the website you indicated - YEL-BLK 3.3ohms. YEL-RED 9.6 ohms. There is no ground wire to/from the pump. Please tell me there's a chance I can restore pressurized water to my house today - the ohm readings make it look promising to me...
#6
12-24-13, 05:18 AM
Group Moderator
I'm a bit confused whether or not you have a well pump controller since you mention the pressure switch but then also talk about a terminal strip. Is this terminal strip on the pressure switch or in a separate enclosure/box? Since you mention a yellow wire I'm assuming you have a pump control box.
The pressure switch is pretty simple. Just a mechanical switch so it's pretty easy to check for 240 volts going in and 240 volts should be going out when the contacts are closed. If you have a separate pump control box it generally contains a magnetic contactor and a capacitor to help start the pump motor. Do the capacitors look puffed or is the end bulging up? Do you have a electronic or analog volt meter? If it's digital does it have the capability to test a capacitor?
The pressure switch is pretty simple. Just a mechanical switch so it's pretty easy to check for 240 volts going in and 240 volts should be going out when the contacts are closed. If you have a separate pump control box it generally contains a magnetic contactor and a capacitor to help start the pump motor. Do the capacitors look puffed or is the end bulging up? Do you have a electronic or analog volt meter? If it's digital does it have the capability to test a capacitor?
#7
12-24-13, 05:29 AM
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: United States of America
Posts: 393
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Yes, there is an external control box between the pressure switch and the pump. It contains the overload protection device, a relay (to switch between start and run circuits maybe? I' m new enough to this that I can admit my ignorance!) and one start cap and a run cap. The caps don't look or smell like they've gone bad - no puffiness or burned spots, and they're still in one piece. My Blue Point (Fluke, I think) digital VOM is pretty capable, but I don't think it can test a cap. If I knew what to look for through the relay, the overload or the caps I could check those next. I might be able to get hold of any or all of those today if needed...
#8
12-24-13, 06:08 AM
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: United States of America
Posts: 393
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Okay, a little closer examination in better light reveals testing procedures on the cover of the control box. First, the reset button on the overload was OUT (please don't beat me up on this - the button is hidden by a flange on the control box!). After pushing it back in and following the testing as far as I could (the manufacturer recommends an analog meter to check caps), it seems I've got an open coil on the relay. What does this relay do, cut out the start cap after a short time or something? It looks at this point like I'm looking at a relay and not an overload or motor so far - am I even close? By the way, thanks a million for the help so far...
#9
12-24-13, 06:45 AM
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: United States of America
Posts: 393
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Not sure whether this is getting better or worse... more closer inspection reveals a different part number for the relay for voltages above 200VAC. That relay is in the box and the coil tests good with resistance of about 5.6K ohms. The troubleshooting procedures on the cover tell me the likely reasons for the overload tripping include voltage issues (none found), failed relay (tests good), shorted/locked motor (windings check out) and bad capacitor(unable to test with available equipment). i don't want to just throw capacitors at it, but everything else is showing good as near as I can tell. What's next?
#10
12-24-13, 08:23 AM
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: United States of America
Posts: 393
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
After a little shopping around, I found both capacitors for less fhan $9.00. Figured it would be a cheap gamble even if I lost. But I hardly ever lose. Success! I have water again! Thanks for the help, everyone. 'Til next time,... Chris
#11
12-24-13, 10:09 AM
Group Moderator
I'm glad you found the capacitors so quickly. Even though they are an electronic component they do seem to have a limited life so it's not too unusual for them to go bad. And often they don't puff, swell or rupture so the only way to tell if they are still good is to test them... or just replace them for $9.
#12
12-26-13, 06:28 AM
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: United States of America
Posts: 393
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes
on
0 Posts
Agreed. I was having nightmares about what it was going to cost to get a well service contractor out on Christmas Eve and whether my homeowner insurance would cover the expense. I only hope my experience helps someone else restore their well pump to operating condition and save a little hard-earned scratch. Thanks again for the help. Until next time - Chris
