Sump Pump Discharge Prevent Freeze
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Sump Pump Discharge Prevent Freeze
What provisions are usually made when running sump pump discharge to daylight out a pipe in a sill plate of a basement to assure it doesn't freeze?
Again its not buried, it discharges out to the lawn....
Again its not buried, it discharges out to the lawn....
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When you say no water in the pipe, just the portion exposed to the elements right?
On the interior theres a check valve that would hold water probably from the valve to where the elbow is up at the sill plate. Then there is about a ft of pipe that goes through the sill, exterior foam insulation and vinyl . Outside there is 4-6 inches of pvc that connects to 1 1/2 blue discharge hose material.
What would be my best option on the outside portion? Theres a 1 1/2" female adapter on the pipe right now.
On the interior theres a check valve that would hold water probably from the valve to where the elbow is up at the sill plate. Then there is about a ft of pipe that goes through the sill, exterior foam insulation and vinyl . Outside there is 4-6 inches of pvc that connects to 1 1/2 blue discharge hose material.
What would be my best option on the outside portion? Theres a 1 1/2" female adapter on the pipe right now.
#4
When you say no water in the pipe, just the portion exposed to the elements right?
Outside there is 4-6 inches of pvc that connects to 1 1/2 blue discharge hose material.
Blue hose??? I believe that will retain water if the type with holes... I would continue PVC out as far as you need... You dont have to glue it.. revert back to the blue hose in the summer...
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The stub exits the house about 3 ft above ground. Adding straight pvc off the female adapter would be dangling in air....
what type of fitting should I use to step it down to ground level?
what type of fitting should I use to step it down to ground level?
#6
45 piece of pipe as far as it will go till reaches the ground and another 45. Twist the end 45 so its off to the side and pitching down so no water pools at the end... Support end up on a paver.... Let 45 overhang paver...
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I picked a spot to discharge that was convienient to the inside plumbing (up 10 ft to a 90 then diretly out the house another ft'. However, its not the best place for it outside.
The other option was a 10' vertical rise out of the pit, then a 90 elbow to a horizontal span of 30' then up up 2 ft to go out the sill plate to daylight.
Would a 1/2hp pump be capable of that length and bends? And move that capacity of water off the check valve?
The other option was a 10' vertical rise out of the pit, then a 90 elbow to a horizontal span of 30' then up up 2 ft to go out the sill plate to daylight.
Would a 1/2hp pump be capable of that length and bends? And move that capacity of water off the check valve?
#9
Would a 1/2hp pump be capable of that length and bends? And move that capacity of water off the check valve?
#11
You should have the pipe discharge into a larger pipe as soon as you can after it comes out of the house. That will help. On the piping for my back up pump, it comes out through my foundation to a Tee. The bottom of the tee is a short length of pipe into a larger drain pipe. The top of the Tee has a plug that lightly stuck into the pump so it will pop off if the lower discharge is frozen. The fittings came with the pump so I am not sure where to find that plug.
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didn't see anything about "pump curve" in its manual... didn't say a thing about length of run or number of elbows......
btw: for the outside. It used to be 1 1/2 blue discharge hosing. Now its 1.5 pvc, 20' ft of it... should I beef it up to 2" or larger?
btw: for the outside. It used to be 1 1/2 blue discharge hosing. Now its 1.5 pvc, 20' ft of it... should I beef it up to 2" or larger?
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Don't have a model number, its a Cambell Hausfield 1/2 submersible purchased at a Menards. If you ccan take a look and give me your opinon, is this a quality pump? Good manufacture, I never heard of it when I bought the pump in a pinch.
Guess I got to pick up a 1.5 t0 2.0 adapter and a couple of 2.0 45's and some 2" pipe.
Guess I got to pick up a 1.5 t0 2.0 adapter and a couple of 2.0 45's and some 2" pipe.
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You should always make sure the line has a good slope to it to guarantee the water will evacuate, but in my experience it becomes more of a concern with 20 foot-plus runs. That's when you have to pay a lot more attention to the angle to keep the water moving. The further the water travels, the more likely it is to loose momentum at some point. If possible a more dramatic downward angle at the end right before the exit helps. These things don't usually clog up with ice on one cycle. It takes awhile, and with each successive cycle the thin layer of water that is left in the line freezes. Each new cycle builds up another thin layer of ice until the pipe closes off. Designing the run to minimize the amount of water left in there after a discharge is crucial.
Mine is 15 feet or so. It comes out of the house about 4 feet off the ground, and goes along the side 10 feet with a gradual slope. Then it has a tight bend to turn almost straight downward for the last 5 feet. Then near the ground another 45 degree turn and a few more inches of pipe so the water shoots out at a gentle angle over the ground rather than pounding right into it. We had a solid week of low single digit temps. Any water that sat still for more than about 30 seconds became ice. My pump went off plenty and it never froze.
Mine is 15 feet or so. It comes out of the house about 4 feet off the ground, and goes along the side 10 feet with a gradual slope. Then it has a tight bend to turn almost straight downward for the last 5 feet. Then near the ground another 45 degree turn and a few more inches of pipe so the water shoots out at a gentle angle over the ground rather than pounding right into it. We had a solid week of low single digit temps. Any water that sat still for more than about 30 seconds became ice. My pump went off plenty and it never froze.
Last edited by eharri3; 01-16-14 at 05:13 PM.