I am not at this property at times for a couple of weeks at a time.
The well house is about 80 feet from the main home, the line is about 5 to 8 feet under ground. There is not a shut off to the home in the well in the well house, there is a shut off in the home to the well house. I as a rule shut that off when I leave. I don't leave the water run not wanting to fill the septic tank, the property is in the country.

The pressure in the tank is good at about 30 LBS. that is the blue tank in the well house. In the home in the basement is another tank which I think is a storage tank for water from the well it looks like about a 40 gallon. We havn't had any problems until this year, I do keep heat tape around the pipes in the well house.

I would like to get the pipes thawed and keep them open if possible, I have looked at a product called the KT 200 for thawing pipes with electric cables but I have a large area to cover about 120 all together. Besides waiting for spring is there anything else that can be done.

I was thinking about spending the money for the KT 200 but not sure that it would work plus would it effect the power in the home and well house?

 

The KT 200 will thaw the pipes, but this is not a leave on and energized setup. $1699 seems a bit pricey when an old Forney welder will do the same job. I have a 1963 model Forney (CB) that I have used occasionally to thaw frozen metal pipes. It performs well. Should be able to buy one at farm auction or Craig's list for around $100 - 250. They are 220V 50A. The KT 200 is 110V.
Your pipes must be metal to conduct the electrical current that makes the pipes heat and thaw.

Another option is find a portable welder, preferably a Lincoln and pay the owner to hook up and thaw your pipes. I have used this method also an 4' deep pipes. Thawed about 200' in around 30 minutes with the portable Lincoln welder.

RR

 

I have read about using a welder to thaw them, but how would you do it with a span of about 150 feet, how do you extend the cables that far?

 

If you don't have long enough extension leads then you have to do it in sections. This IS hard on low duty-cycle (home shop) welders and the instructions usually will say to only have the current flowing for a fairly short period of time (ten or fifteen minutes as I recall) with a substantial cool-down time leaving the welder cooling fan running (leads disconnected) to avoid damaging the transformer windings.

 

Note I said old Forney. The only cracker-box welder that I know of that can take the cables shorted on pipe and not burn out. A model CB or CBBT. Set it on about 100 A.
I have 125' of welding lead and 100' of ground lead. Theoretically I could span 250' of frozen pipe.
Again, I specifically stated an older model Lincoln portable welder was the preferred one to use.

The KT 200 can be extended with longer leads such as #4 welding cable or automotive booster cables.

It is all in the budget and personal patience/preference.

RR

 

Yes, you did, Rooster. Since these forums are read by many who never post, and one of them might get the bright idea of trying their old "buzz box", I added the caveat.