Replacing pump and high water level float on mound system
#1
04-06-14, 11:36 AM
Replacing pump and high water level float on mound system
my high water level float keeps going off every couple months but when i take the cover off i usually find the float switch just needs to be moved a little and it stops buzzing. the pump seems to be pumping ok when the float to the pump is lifted. im assuming the float for the high water level is not positoned properly or is possibly wearing out and needs replacement. the tank is never above the normal waterline.
I figure if i have to replace the float for the high water alarm i might as well replace the pump also. (thinking its close to 15 yrs old) my question is what precations have to be taken to go down into the tank to retrieve the pump and the high water float alarm. the pump is hard plumbed to a piece of pvc that rises up maybe 3 feet from the pump then does a 90 degree and exits the tank to the mound. im assuming the pump is just sitting on some sort of base and once the hard plumbing is cut the whole pump will lift out.(i hope the pump isnt mounted to the bottom of the tank in anyway) i can figure the float alarms and pump out im certain but im a little apprehendsive of what must be done to retrieve them safely from the tank. would just venting the tank with a blower be adequate. anyone ever done this job? howd you do it? thanks for any help
I figure if i have to replace the float for the high water alarm i might as well replace the pump also. (thinking its close to 15 yrs old) my question is what precations have to be taken to go down into the tank to retrieve the pump and the high water float alarm. the pump is hard plumbed to a piece of pvc that rises up maybe 3 feet from the pump then does a 90 degree and exits the tank to the mound. im assuming the pump is just sitting on some sort of base and once the hard plumbing is cut the whole pump will lift out.(i hope the pump isnt mounted to the bottom of the tank in anyway) i can figure the float alarms and pump out im certain but im a little apprehendsive of what must be done to retrieve them safely from the tank. would just venting the tank with a blower be adequate. anyone ever done this job? howd you do it? thanks for any help
#2
04-06-14, 12:35 PM
Group Moderator
Welcome to the forums.
Most of my work is done in ejection pits with removable tops. I don't work on the pumps.... just the floats and logic systems. Do you have the type of float that hangs from a wire like in the pic below ? They are extremely reliable as long as they are mounted where they don't get caught on something.
To work on your own tank. You'd have to have it completely pumped out and I'd imagine a blower supplying fresh air circulation would be a good idea as well as some old disposable clothes
.
Most of my work is done in ejection pits with removable tops. I don't work on the pumps.... just the floats and logic systems. Do you have the type of float that hangs from a wire like in the pic below ? They are extremely reliable as long as they are mounted where they don't get caught on something.
To work on your own tank. You'd have to have it completely pumped out and I'd imagine a blower supplying fresh air circulation would be a good idea as well as some old disposable clothes
.
#3
04-06-14, 01:04 PM
i dont see the pic your refering to but it has the tipical float high water level switch that is basically just the softball size ball with the electrical wire leading to it. the electrical wire leading to it is wiretied to the pvc riser coming off the pump at the appropriate level to cause the float contacts to close as the float is lifted by the water level. the float high water level switch is run thru the concrete cover(along with the pump power and pump float switch) to an electrical box up top.
i figured id replace the float high water switch because i have to go down there to reposition the current one anyway because it gets stuck from what looks like the person who installed it having wiretied it too short to the pvc riser. And i thought id replace the pump because the pump is definetly old even though it seems to be pumping ok yet. i just dont want to have the thing fail in the winter time(which is murphys law) when it would be alot more unpleasant to replace as it would be now.
if i hook up a 1000 cubic ft per minute blower i have and stuck the 8 inch duct down there for an half hr and the also let it run while down there is it still possible there could be gas down there that could overcome me. thats really my only concern. im just wondering how do people who do this for a living go down into these tanks safely?
i figured id replace the float high water switch because i have to go down there to reposition the current one anyway because it gets stuck from what looks like the person who installed it having wiretied it too short to the pvc riser. And i thought id replace the pump because the pump is definetly old even though it seems to be pumping ok yet. i just dont want to have the thing fail in the winter time(which is murphys law) when it would be alot more unpleasant to replace as it would be now.
if i hook up a 1000 cubic ft per minute blower i have and stuck the 8 inch duct down there for an half hr and the also let it run while down there is it still possible there could be gas down there that could overcome me. thats really my only concern. im just wondering how do people who do this for a living go down into these tanks safely?
#5
04-06-14, 03:50 PM
Group Moderator
Are your floats attached to a vertical piece of PVC pipe? If so give it a twist by hand and see if your can pull the pipe and floats up. Often the floats are attached to a removable section of pipe so they can be pulled and serviced without having to go down into the tank which can be quite hazardous. The tank still needs to be pumped so you can see what you're doing but at least it might save having to enter a confined space.
#6
04-06-14, 06:15 PM
unfortunatly the floats are attatched to the pvc riser pipe that comes right off the pump. so there isnt any way to remove them without going down there and cutting the pvc riser pipe or possibly the pvc riser pipe could be unthreaded from the pump but it seems it would be alot easier to just cut the riser pipe and lif the pump and all the floats up top to work on them. i could then reassemble everything up top and then set back in and just use a pvc coupler and reattach.
i just hate to have to call someone to do something that i dont think will take longer than 2 hrs and have them charge me anywhere from 800 to 1500 dollars. of coarse i dont want to end up dead at the bottom of the tank either. i was hoping someone had some experience and could remark on the proper proceduces for this type of job. from what i have read constant ventilating and gas monitoring are whats required but im not certain.
i just hate to have to call someone to do something that i dont think will take longer than 2 hrs and have them charge me anywhere from 800 to 1500 dollars. of coarse i dont want to end up dead at the bottom of the tank either. i was hoping someone had some experience and could remark on the proper proceduces for this type of job. from what i have read constant ventilating and gas monitoring are whats required but im not certain.
#7
04-06-14, 08:37 PM
Group Moderator
#8
04-06-14, 10:07 PM
Super Moderator
i just hate to have to call someone to do something that i dont think will take longer than 2 hrs and have them charge me anywhere from 800 to 1500 dollars.
The pump pulls out. And never do this by yourself.. You could fall in.
Best to call a pro IMO... Get estimates..
#9
04-07-14, 05:06 AM
... when i take the cover off i usually find the float switch just needs to be moved a little and it stops buzzing.
Yes there can be vapors down there generated during the biodegrading that by definition happens in a septic tank. Those vapors include toxic or asphyxiating gases. After pumping out the tank you need to run a ventilating system (that uses a fat hose) for a long enough time to assure that most if not all of the toxic gases are removed before you go in. Just climbing in quickly and blowing fresh air at the spot where you are working is not good enough.
I was going to suggest installing a new float assembly with new float switches but not removing the hard to remove old float assembly. But mounting the new assembly so it too doesn't keep drifting back to a wrong position causing resumption of your orignal complaint can be a challenge. Also you would need to be able to access the wiring to shift that over to the new assembly. On second thought this too looks complex and is better left to a professional.
#10
04-07-14, 06:00 AM
Group Moderator
Since you may have to go into your tank I would have a plan and materials ready so set it up so nobody has to go into the tank in the future. Tie a rope onto the pump and attach it to something at the top where you can reach it. Connect the pumps piping to the outlet with a union at the top in an accessible location. The pump can then be changed by disconnecting the union and pulling up on the pipe and rope. Mount the float switches to a removable pole/post so they can pulled out for service and adjustment.
I hate to say but this is one job I'd consider hiring a professional. Someone experienced and equipped for confined space entry. Also make sure they have knowledge to plumb and set up everything so they don't have to go down into the tank in the future.
I hate to say but this is one job I'd consider hiring a professional. Someone experienced and equipped for confined space entry. Also make sure they have knowledge to plumb and set up everything so they don't have to go down into the tank in the future.
#11
04-07-14, 07:15 AM
After thinking about it it would be possible to remove the whole pump and float switch assembly without going down into the hole. i could fish a rope around the pump riser pvc where it turns and makes a 90 degee and once that is secure simply have a hack saw attached to a long pole to cut the pvc pipe riser where it makes the turn and then i could pull the whole thing up from up top with the rope. this i know could be done but once i have it up top and everything replaced i dont see how its possible to get the pvc riser hooked back up once id drop the whole thing back down into the hole. the pump riser comes up about 3 ft from the bottom of the tank and does a 90 degree to discharge the fluid to the mound. so how to get that connection back together i dont see without having to go down there. even a pvc union needs to be threaded and how can that be done at a distance. the thing shoud have been installed with something like a pitless adapter so the pump just uncoupled from the top.
well the pump is still working properly so i dont have to make a decision immediately. if the buzzer goes off its not too hard to check and readjust for now but i want to get it resolved before another brutal winter comes. another reason i hate to hire someone is that if they come and replace anything and then find something else that isnt up to current codes(even though its been working for 20 yrs and was code compliant when installed) they can call the inspecter and then a 800 dollar bill can turn into a 20000 dollar new septic system. dont laugh i know people who this has happened to. this state is regulation crazy and your at thier mercy once an inspector arrives.
i figure the tank is no more than 1000 cubic ft and the blower i have does 1000 cubic ft per minute. so technically the air should be being exchanged roughly once every minute with the blower pumping fresh air down the hole. a circulating fan could be dropped down onto the floor and let run with the blower sending fresh air down for a couple of hours ( or even a day)if neccesary before entering to make sure there is no pockets of air that arent being refreshed.
well the pump is still working properly so i dont have to make a decision immediately. if the buzzer goes off its not too hard to check and readjust for now but i want to get it resolved before another brutal winter comes. another reason i hate to hire someone is that if they come and replace anything and then find something else that isnt up to current codes(even though its been working for 20 yrs and was code compliant when installed) they can call the inspecter and then a 800 dollar bill can turn into a 20000 dollar new septic system. dont laugh i know people who this has happened to. this state is regulation crazy and your at thier mercy once an inspector arrives.
i figure the tank is no more than 1000 cubic ft and the blower i have does 1000 cubic ft per minute. so technically the air should be being exchanged roughly once every minute with the blower pumping fresh air down the hole. a circulating fan could be dropped down onto the floor and let run with the blower sending fresh air down for a couple of hours ( or even a day)if neccesary before entering to make sure there is no pockets of air that arent being refreshed.
