Installing sewage pump in old drywell holding tank.

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Old 04-11-14, 08:24 AM
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Installing sewage pump in old drywell holding tank.

Ok here goes! What we have is an old dry well setup, which we have had many problems with. What I am attempting is to to install a grinder pump in the dry well holding tank to pump over to a newer septic tank with a leech field. The run will be 100 ft. with a very minimal incline. The head weight coming up and out will be no more than 4 or 5 ft. there will be 1 45 elbow and 1 90 elbow. the pump I have is a CLW750 3/4 horse. with a 2" discharge and at 20' head weight will pump 2400 gph. I will be running 2" pipe to the newer tank. Question is, Will what I have do the job pump wise? and yes I will be installing a check valve! The incline to the newer tank is approx. 1ft in 100 ft.
 

Last edited by jam31963; 04-11-14 at 09:32 AM.
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Old 04-11-14, 01:51 PM
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It would be less expensive to install a septic tank gravity fed to a pump chamber, which then would pump to the leach field.

Grinder pumps cost a lot more , last less & require more maintenance than a effluent pump.

If you think that, because you have now it would be less let me know if that is still right when you have to replace that pump in 3 - 5 years.

Grinder pumps should be cleaned and the blades flipped once a year.
 
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Old 04-11-14, 03:48 PM
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I have not taken the grinder out of the box yet. Even though my plan is to make it very easy to pull the pump I would rather not have to mess with it for awhile.Right now I have less than 500.00 invested and everything I need and some extras. The pump I have can handle up to 2'" solids! The tank I am using for the pump pit is gravity fed from the house. Specs on this pump can be found here. CountyLine® 3/4 HP Cast Iron Sewage Pump with Tethered Switch - Tractor Supply Co.
 
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Old 04-12-14, 09:05 AM
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I would not use that pump. You will end up replacing it once a year. The cord on is only 10ft. long & if you alter it you will void the warranty. If the pump fails & you try get a new one under warranty you have to send it back to County Line & if they say there was a manufacturing defect they will then send you a replacement. The days this will take you will be without a pump unless you buy a new one.

I understand what you are trying to do, but you will end up spending more money & time in the long run.

A good whole house grinder pump starts at about $2,000.00. Check out Zoeller, Goulds, or Meyers pumps and you will see the difference in quality.

A 1500 gal. pump chamber is going to cost you about $1,000.00 - $1,500.00 & good effluent pump starts at about $500.00 and you will need to add the cost of digging the hole for the pump chamber. The effluent pump will last you twice as long as a grinder pump, so for a little more money you will get a much more reliable system.

I would also go with a (3) float system on - off - alarm.
 
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Old 04-12-14, 10:17 AM
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I have 300 into the grinder pump so I do not have an issue taking it back and getting the effluent pump. My pump pit is about 4 ft. in Diameter and approx. 6 ft. deep. I will get some pics up later on today to show you what I am working with. I have considered that this may be a temp thing. I do plan to leave the existing pipe in for the dry well pit in case there is an issue with the pump it will be able to flow out the one. Thank you for your input so far, Very much appreciated. will get the pics up today!
 
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Old 04-12-14, 07:43 PM
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How old is this drywell setup, I mean is it months old or decades old?

For those eavesdropping, a "drywell setup for sewage" is another term for cesspool and such a system is illegal in most cities nowadays. If you modify such a system, it would lose its grandfathering if it had that.

A holding tank for sewage is vaguely the same thing but is nonporous and in most cases is not illegal. The primary usage for large ones is in cities where septic tanks are no longer allowed and the sewers are so overloaded that some users have time of day restrictions for discharging sewage. A holding tank plus grinder pump plus timer is the solution there.

Go with a gravity fed septic tank. This is far superior to a system using a grinder pump. If you didn't already know, I should have to tell you that having to maintain a grinder pump is messy and repulsive.
 
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Old 04-12-14, 10:12 PM
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The drywell setup is decades old. We live out in the country. I am eliminating the the the seep tank part of the system. Just using the the holding pit for my pump pit which will pump to an existing septic tank with leech field. This system had been used by a newer trailer a few years ago which has been moved out. The newer tank and field is slightly higher than the house. Thus the need to pump.
 
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Old 04-13-14, 05:10 AM
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Can't you use an effluent pump to get the overflow from the old second tank (seep tank) to the existing septic tank many feet away? This assumes that solid matter does not go into the seep tank.

I take it that the old first tank (you want to use as a holding tank) overflows into the seep tank whenever it wants.

Pump out the old first tank now (and again every few years) and it would behave like a septic tank if it was not already one (of solid concrete or well mortared blocks/bricks). It would be the seep tank that becomes the holding tank.

Yes they did build two tank systems as a (nonporous) septic tank and a (porous) seep tank next to it and with no leach field. Some towns still allow them. This septic tank also has a baffled outlet so grease and solids don't go out with the effluent and a baffled inlet so new incoming material does not head for the outlet first thing.
 

Last edited by AllanJ; 04-13-14 at 05:25 AM.
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Old 04-13-14, 08:42 AM
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The seep tank is in the opposite direction than the newer system from the holding tank which is none porous. This is the holding tank which I am going to use as my pump pit! Already had this pumped.
 
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Old 04-13-14, 08:45 AM
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This will be the tank I am pumping to.
 
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