Ok, here we go. I'm going to walk you through all we've done, up to this point.

57 foot "bored" well; submersible jet well pump; 70 gallon pressure tank and 40/60 pressure switch.

We've been in our home (built in 1975) for four years. Up until a year ago, we never had well or water issues. All of our neighbors have the same type of well and do not have issues.

Last spring we started to get a rust colored sediment in our water, so we called our local plumber who came to evaluate. He stated that the well pump was too low and was pulling sediment into the water system. He raised the water pump, away from the dirt and then suggested that we install sediment and iron filters and a water softner. We had all of that installed and everything was running great for about a month. Last May we started losing water pressure to the house. The water would be running perfectly and then the pressure tank gauge would drop to zero. So, we called another plumber out. He said that the well pump we had was not done properly, so we needed a new one. He installed a brand new well pump. We were able to run water as usual for about another week and then lost water pressure to the pressure tank all of a sudden, again. My husband figured out that the sediment filter was pretty dirty. Replacing it kept us in water for about two weeks. The last few months, we've been going through sediment filters about every two weeks up until September.

In September we started losing water pressure again. There would be no warning. We'd be in the shower or washing dishes and the pressure tank gauge would just drop to zero. We had the same plumbing company come out and they said we needed to replace our water pressure tank, which was only a year old, at the time. At that point, I felt that they were just trying to get money out of us... replacing pieces as they went. So, I called an actual well company. That well company sent out a guy who spent 10 minutes looking down the well and measuring the water level. He stated that our well was "running dry" and then gave us an estimate for digging a new well. Well, not sure if y'all have priced a new well, but it'll cost a LOT more money than we have, so we've lived all winter on a prayer and have water with little problem. Our water pressure was so low all winter that we couldn't run the showers, but were able to flush the toilets and take baths.

Then, at the beginning of March the water pressure gauge started to drop to zero again. We had a different plumbing company come out and he suggested we change the pressure switch. I did do that myself and we had pretty great water until two weeks ago. At the beginning of April the water pressure dropped so low that it was taking us 15 minutes to fill a bathtub. So, I called the same plumber who suggested the switch update. He bypassed the filtration system and we had awesome water pressure AND the water was clear, until the filter guy showed up.

The filter guy performed a "backwash" and when he left, the water worked fine. Two hours later, the water pressure was super low again, so we bypassed the filtration system and had water the next day. Since then, we've been getting about one minute of decent water pressure and then it dies. I check the water pressure gauge (which was replaced with the switch, so it's new) shows zero. AGAIN!

I would like to know what we should check next? Could the pressure tank be full of sediment? Would it benefit us to replace that before we start worrying about paying for a new well? I grew up in a rural area and was taught that wells never go dry, that there's usually just a problem with the delivery system, which is why I'm cynical of the well company spending ten minutes and handing me an estimate.



Thank you all in advance.

 

So you called a pump guy and he thought you needed a new pump and you called a well guy and he thought you needed a new well. I bet if you call a hammer guy he is going to think the problem is "nail" related. lol.

Are you getting any bursts of air coming out when you turn on a tap?

When you lose pressure suddenly, do you know if the pump is on at those times?

When there is no water use does the pressure hold or does it decline on its own?

 

Hello and welcome... Yes IMO well dont typically go dry..

All the work you had is all sepeculation unless you have facts/data..

1. How many GPM pump is in the well?
2. Although 57 ft well what is the actual water level?
3. Posibly you need a smaller pump and are overdrawing the well..
4.Leav all filtration devices on btpass except the sediment filter until you troubleshoot systematically..
5.What micron is the sediment filter. Should be 30-50 micron.
6. What pressure switch do you have? 60/40 50/30 40/20??
7. Have you adjusted the air in the tank properly? It should be about 5 psi below cut in psi.
8. With low psi or no water is there air being drawn in the plumbing?
9. What is the size of the casing? 3" 4"?????

Start there..

Your throwing money at stuff, that it seems no one has a clue on what they are doing.

 

I am with lawrosa, someone needs to do some trouble-shooting. If I were doing it, I would start with the well. Disconnect the outlet to the well and run the pump long enough to find out if it is pumping out the well (well running out of water). If the well has good capacity, hook it up and check out the pressure tank & pressure switch; does it build up pressure and shut off the pump? Will it do it over and over?
Step-by-step, verify each component of the system is clean and operating as it should.

 

Thanks for the reply, OptsyEagle. Unfortunately, I wish my issue was that simple. We had the same big name plumbing company perform most of the work then called in a smaller mom and pop who have helped the most. The well company didn't come until we had given up on the big name plumbing company....

We do get bursts of air when the water comes back on.

When the pressure switch shows zero, the pump switch is not kicking on. I try to trip it it myself and that doesn't work.

The water declines on it's own. We'll have water pressure of 60 psi, five minutes later I'll go to do dishes or something and the water just doesn't come out. Check the pressure and it's zero.

 

Thanks Lawrosa and Crackerjack!

Here are the answers to the questions I know, right now.

1. How many GPM pump is in the well?
Not sure, how do I tell?

2. Although 57 ft well what is the actual water level?
We had 53 feet last June.

3. Possibly you need a smaller pump and are overdrawing the well..
The well guy checked that and said it was fine.

4. Leave all filtration devices on bypass except the sediment filter until you troubleshoot systematically..
Did this

5.What micron is the sediment filter. Should be 30-50 micron.
We're currently using 35

6. What pressure switch do you have? 60/40 50/30 40/20??
Pressure switch is 40/60

7. Have you adjusted the air in the tank properly? It should be about 5 psi below cut in psi.
Yes, we've done this twice. The entire process of draining all water and then checking etc. We even drained all the air and re-added it.

8. With low psi or no water is there air being drawn in the plumbing?
Not at first, but when the pressure finally start coming back up, we'll get air come through then. When the pressure shows zero, there is no air.

9. What is the size of the casing? 3" 4"?????
What's a casing?!

Also, how do I tell if the pump is running?

Thanks guys!

 

1. How many GPM pump is in the well?
Not sure, how do I tell?

It should be listed on the make and model of pump you have down there...

2. Although 57 ft well what is the actual water level?
We had 53 feet last June.

Thats not good.Plus you say you lifted the pump some.. You only have 4ft of water that the pump is submerged.. That 53 ft is correct? ( If anything , and the well experts should help, if the pump is too large for the amount of water in the well you may get by with say a 2 gpm pump.. But we need the pump info on what you have now.)

3. Possibly you need a smaller pump and are overdrawing the well..
The well guy checked that and said it was fine.

See above. Not fine if its overdrawing...

4. Leave all filtration devices on bypass except the sediment filter until you troubleshoot systematically..
Did this

OK...


5.What micron is the sediment filter. Should be 30-50 micron.
We're currently using 35

OK

6. What pressure switch do you have? 60/40 50/30 40/20??
Pressure switch is 40/60


May need to lower that. With a well that cant produce enough gpm better to have a 20/40 IMO.. What for the seasoned pros to answer..

7. Have you adjusted the air in the tank properly? It should be about 5 psi below cut in psi.
Yes, we've done this twice. The entire process of draining all water and then checking etc. We even drained all the air and re-added it.

OK... So you have 35psi in the tank?

8. With low psi or no water is there air being drawn in the plumbing?
Not at first, but when the pressure finally start coming back up, we'll get air come through then. When the pressure shows zero, there is no air.

Probably sucking air. When the water draws from the well it creates a cone or vortex.. A lower GMP pump may reduce this cone.

9. What is the size of the casing? 3" 4"?????
What's a casing?!

That is the pipe that goes down the well that the pump slides down. Tell us that diameter and we may be able to figure your gpm the well can produce..

Also, how do I tell if the pump is running?


You can test the electrical leads to the pump with an amp meter or voltage meter. You have a box on the wall with relays and capacitors that start the pump???

 

1. How many GPM pump is in the well?
Not sure, how do I tell?
It should be listed on the make and model of pump you have down there...
The user's manual is very generic. It doesn't give the gpm. It says it's "1/2 through 10 H.P., 60 hz" does that help any?!

2. Although 57 ft well what is the actual water level?
We had 53 feet last June.
Thats not good.Plus you say you lifted the pump some.. You only have 4ft of water that the pump is submerged.. That 53 ft is correct? ( If anything , and the well experts should help, if the pump is too large for the amount of water in the well you may get by with say a 2 gpm pump.. But we need the pump info on what you have now.)
What do I need to see how much water we have now? I suppose only having four feet of water is what could cause the dirt too. If this is the case, what should we do about such low water in the well?!

6. What pressure switch do you have? 60/40 50/30 40/20??
Pressure switch is 40/60
May need to lower that. With a well that cant produce enough gpm better to have a 20/40 IMO.. What for the seasoned pros to answer..
We'll give this a try

7. Have you adjusted the air in the tank properly? It should be about 5 psi below cut in psi.
Yes, we've done this twice. The entire process of draining all water and then checking etc. We even drained all the air and re-added it.
OK... So you have 35psi in the tank?

Yes Sir, I've got 38 psi

8. With low psi or no water is there air being drawn in the plumbing?
Not at first, but when the pressure finally start coming back up, we'll get air come through then. When the pressure shows zero, there is no air.
Probably sucking air. When the water draws from the well it creates a cone or vortex.. A lower GMP pump may reduce this cone.

This makes sense with such a low amount of water in my well.

9. What is the size of the casing? 3" 4"?????
What's a casing?!
That is the pipe that goes down the well that the pump slides down. Tell us that diameter and we may be able to figure your gpm the well can produce..

The casing is about 2 inches

Also, how do I tell if the pump is running?
You can test the electrical leads to the pump with an amp meter or voltage meter. You have a box on the wall with relays and capacitors that start the pump???

We do not. To cut the power to the well we have to flip the breaker. I can test the wires at the pressure switch. Will that do?

You guys are awesome. Thanks for walking me through all this

 

I wonder if this Well could have a stuck foot valve/back flow preventer, which when the pump stops, is allowing the water to drain back and is also churning up the silt at the bottom of the well, and putting debris into suspense ?

 

1. what is the make and model pump? Since you have the manual you can tell us this.

2. A weighted string to tell how deep. A string with a dobber to tell the water level.

7. Take some air out. If there is pump lag the bladder will collapse on itself. This will give you a 0 psi reading and a no water situation until the pump can recover. ( Its worth a shot. make it 32 for now. This will eliminate that scenario. You can adjust mack later)

9. 2"???? And a well pump fits down there I assume? Thats small. Give me some time to calculate your gpm by that info..

( Furthermore tell us what old pump you had down in the well before this one..)

So the pump is self starting... OK...

 

I used to have a well in fla and 2" casing was the norm [and legal] for all wells 100' deep or less. Mine was a 110' with 2" casing. The pump sits above the well instead of being in the casing.

 

Good Morning,

The pump manual covers a range of models. It's not just for the one we bought. I think the "plumber" just gave us what was in his truck.

I did want to mention that when I went out to my well yesterday, the ground was awefully squishy. Could my main line be leaking? Would that cause some of this issue?

I think it's really odd that our well worked just fine for 3 years and now, all of a sudden, it's too empty to do anything.

I'll try letting out some of the air. Thanks for the tip! I'll let you know what the current water depth is as soon as I find a long piece of rope

Let me do some digging around in our records to see if the old pump info is on any of it. I'm not sure if we'll have that... I wish I would have found this site at the beginning of all this! You guys have been a huge help.

 

The ground around the well head shouldn't be any wetter than the rest of the ground. Kind of sounds like something is leaking to me. Double check all your fittings and the tank for leaks.

 

Thanks Marksr! The ground leading from the house to the well was so saturated, it almost sucked my flip flops off. However, there was no visible water. What's the best way to check the pipe going from the house to the well? A shovel? Please don't say a shovel

 

I'm not sure there is any substitute for exposing the pipe and getting a visual, maybe some of the others will know of other options.

 

I still want to know the make... I want to look it up because I cant believe a pump will fit down a 2" casing...

Is there a pit-less adapter in the yard?

Where is the well head?

 

I'll try to find the model when I get home this evening.

I'm not sure about the pitless adapter, would that be above or below ground? We know very little about our well. The people we bought the house from didn't pass along very much paperwork...

I'm not sure what a well head is. Would it help y'all if I take a picture of what we've got going on and post it?

 

pics might be helpful - http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html

I missed where you said your well has a submersible pump I would think that would be odd given both the shallow depth of the well and size of the casing. The well head is where the casing comes up out of the ground.

 

Thanks guys. I know nothing about wells (can you tell?!) I'll take some pictures today, if the rain stops. I'm in Northern VA and we've had some pretty ugly weather.

A guy at work suggested a check my "foot valve". He said that when that goes out it can kick water back into the well making the water dirty and also cause the well pump to shut off.

This week we've gotten about 5 minutes of water at a time. I can turn on the faucet, I hear air coming through and shut it back off. I can give it 15 minutes and I'll get some water.

My casing may be bigger. I should mention I'm horrible with math too, so thanks for helping out! Hopefully, the pictures will help you guys out.

 

Good Evening. So, I decided to watch the pressure switch cycling when I got home and was shocked at what I found. Hopefully, y'all can help me out with this.

We all left home at 0600 this morning. When I got home, my pressure switch was on and the psi was hovering just below 40 psi. I ran the kitchen sink for 5 minutes to see if I could get the water pressure to drop to zero. It didn't work. At this point the air pressure in the tank was 38 psi. I let the air out down to 35 psi to see if that would do anything. ***edited, when the water pressure shows 40 psi, the air pressure jumps to 40 psi as well...

I decided to run the washing machine (60 minute cycle) to see if I could get the pressure to drop to zero, but it hovered around 20-30 psi the entire time. It went back up to 40 psi after it stopped, but I cannot get my pressure switch to actually hit above 40 and shut the well pump off.

Does this mean my well pump is running the entire day? Why would this happen and what should I do?

**Edited again... 10 minutes after load of laundry stopped, pressure gauged showed zero again... Does that mean the well pump is getting too hot and shutting itself down?

Thanks!

 

Hello,

We found a resolution to our issues yesterday. I found a well company (that doesn't do drilling) and had them come out.

Come to find out, for over a year, we've had 5 gpm leaking into our crawl space! It's sad that the four companies we had come out prior to this guy didn't even look under there. I know they didn't b/c the water leaks were so loud, I could hear it, when I stuck my head in the crawl space.

So, all future readers of this thread; if you've got dirt in your well water, all of a sudden, dropping water pressure and a well drilling company telling you your well has gone dry, seek a second opinion. A common household leak was causing all of my "well" issues.

Also, if you're in the Northern Virginia area, I highly recommend Bell Pump and Well. They are amazing.

 

Hard to beat someone that's competent and willing to check out everything

Generally leaks start out small and grow over time so the leak may not have been as apparent earlier.

 

You've got a valid point I guess I'll give the other guys the benefit of the doubt and not tear them apart in my Angie's List reviews. Thanks for that perspective!