New Pressure Tank Installation Problems
#1
05-25-14, 12:25 AM
New Pressure Tank Installation Problems
I am new to this forum so please bear with me:
The new Flotec tank loses pressure even when the in-line valve to the house is closed. There are no water leaks on any of the connections. The air pressure in the tank measured with a tire gauge is 38 lbs, cut-in is 28 and cut-out 43. I can change the differential using the nuts on the pressure switch if that is advisable.
What worries me is that I can observe the loss of water pressure by reading the new pressure gauge affixed to the pump's water-out fitting. It takes about 40 seconds to draw down enough water to kick the pump on until the pressure tank is filled again.
With no place for the water to go, via leaks and all house faucets closed, is it possible that the water loops back into the storage tank for it shows no loss of water? Before going back to the dealer about this problem I would like additional ideas on how to stop this apparent pressure loss.
At the moment we are preventing any damage to the pump motor by throwing the in-house breaker switch to off after using water. When it is needed, water runs immediately again so we're not completely handicapped but much inconvenienced because this action has to be coordinated with the members of the household except during the night when no faucets are opened.
Thank you for your insight!
The new Flotec tank loses pressure even when the in-line valve to the house is closed. There are no water leaks on any of the connections. The air pressure in the tank measured with a tire gauge is 38 lbs, cut-in is 28 and cut-out 43. I can change the differential using the nuts on the pressure switch if that is advisable.
What worries me is that I can observe the loss of water pressure by reading the new pressure gauge affixed to the pump's water-out fitting. It takes about 40 seconds to draw down enough water to kick the pump on until the pressure tank is filled again.
With no place for the water to go, via leaks and all house faucets closed, is it possible that the water loops back into the storage tank for it shows no loss of water? Before going back to the dealer about this problem I would like additional ideas on how to stop this apparent pressure loss.
At the moment we are preventing any damage to the pump motor by throwing the in-house breaker switch to off after using water. When it is needed, water runs immediately again so we're not completely handicapped but much inconvenienced because this action has to be coordinated with the members of the household except during the night when no faucets are opened.
Thank you for your insight!
#2
05-25-14, 04:05 AM
Everything is just as it was before the Pressure Tank was replaced recently ?
It sounds like your foot valve or back flow preventer is stuck open and letting the water return to the well.
It sounds like your foot valve or back flow preventer is stuck open and letting the water return to the well.
#3
05-25-14, 09:05 AM
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
Posts: 3,104
Received 93 Upvotes
on
85 Posts
hi guys -
birdy I think that is wrong. The air pressure in the tank should be set 2 psi below the cut-in. Maybe that's the problem?
...The air pressure in the tank measured with a tire gauge is 38 lbs, cut-in is 28 and cut-out 43. ...
#4
05-25-14, 10:19 AM
Group Moderator
Welcome to the forums.
The pressure tank is not correctly set but that will not cause the pressure to drop like that. It would appear that you are losing water back into the well like Vermont mentioned.
The pressure tank is not correctly set but that will not cause the pressure to drop like that. It would appear that you are losing water back into the well like Vermont mentioned.
#5
05-25-14, 02:29 PM
Member
Yep. You have a leak between your pump and well ...and...your pressure tank is set up incorrectly. As stated above, with the pressure tank completely empty you need to set the air pressure to around 25psi.
