HI there!

I have lost a little water pressure this year, no other problems. Deep well, 175 feet, submersible pump, 220V I think, 30 gallon pressure tank.Well is about 9 years old, pump is 7. I understand how to change the cut-in and cut-out settings on the pressure tank. Currently it is at about 40/60.

Flood irrigation won't reach as far as it did last year and auto timers won't switch on and off.

Thanks for your help!

 

Welcome to the forums! Make sure your pressure tank is set to 2 lbs below cut in pressure on the pump. Add or delete air as necessary with the pump at idle and all the pressure released from the pipes. It is probably more important than trying to fiddle with cut in pressures on the switch. Let us know how that goes.

 

I think I would leave the pressure switch alone and focus on diagnosing your irrigation system. 40-60 psi is sufficient to actuate the valves of a irrigation system. It's possible you have a clog or some other issue causing problems.

 

Thanks Chandler. I've been reading about that process. A little scary, but I believe I have good instructions.

Pilot Dane, my irrigation system is just hoses with sprinklers at this point, but the automatic timers aren't turning on and off as they should. Could be a pressure problem or that the timers have just gone gunny. I'm going through each one before they go into the trash.

Thanks guys.

 

It could be that you're suffering from a simple friction loss.

I've tried providing water to a garden area 300' away from my house, and the pressure, which had been fine close to the pump source, was reduced substantially by the time water got out to the sprinkler heads.

I had to add a cistern (reservoir) and a secondary pump closer to the targeted garden area.

 

Garden hoses over long distances will greatly reduce the water pressure and flow rate. Increasing your pump pressure will not give you much benefit in that situation as the friction through the pipe will also increase, offsetting a lot of the pressure increase. 40-60 psi is a perfectly good and normal pressure range. If your timers are not working with that pressure I doubt an added 10 psi from the pump will help.

 

Thank you much!

Pressure has changed since last year, yes running a long hose to watering site about 150 feet away. Hmmmmm might be more hose than last year but not THAT much more, maybe 25 feet?

Purveyor of my pressure tank concurs with not adjusting the cut-in and cut-out but states to reset the empty pressure tank at 4 psi below cut in.

I might get to that in a week or two!

 

You may have a fitting, possibly on a hose end that is restricting the flow. If you are running that far I would consider getting a 100 ft coil of 1" or 1 1/4" black water pipe and set up a trunk line. Connect that line to your water supply right after the pressure tank using nice big fittings (don't forget a shutoff valve) and then at the end add fittings to connect your garden hose. From that end you can go a hose length in any direction. The large pipe preserve your water pressure and flow rate up to the very end.

The key to a bladder pressure tank is that the air inside be set to a lower pressure than the pump's turn on pressure so the water is always pushing up on the bladder. 2-3 psi less is what I recommend but 4 will work as well. You probably will not notice any difference in operation between 2 and 4 psi less than cut in.

 

Well first I'm going to shorten the long run hose to only the lenth absolutely needed to reach that line of trees. That IS one thing that I have ghanged since last year and only since last year have I had the drop in water pressure at that hose. Thank you all for that information!

THEN I will adjust the pressure on the pressure tank. I believe this is the way to go about it? Appreciate your feedback.

1) Check existing cut-in and cut-out pressure. Tweak as necessary (I think the cut in might be a tad low) to 40/60 (I think it might have been lower than that when first installed, maybe 30/50). I do know how to adjust both cut-in and cut-out.

2) Turn off breaker to pump.

3) Drain pressure tank. Close drain.

4) Check pressure when tank is drained. (Never have done this before. Anything I need to know?)

5) Adjust pressure as necessary to 4 psi below cut-in. (Have never done THIS, obviously haven't looked for a bicycle pump type valve anywhere yet. I have both a bike pump and a 12V compressor). Could use some tips for this part.

6) Close all valves (guessing there)

7) Turn breaker back on to pump, cross fingers and toes and watch pressure gauge for cut in and cut out.

Might get to this next week.

Decided the auto-timers have just crapped out, not a pressure issue.

 

There is a tire filler on the tank. You can use your small electric pump to bring the tank to 36 - 38 psi with the system drained. Then power it up.

 

Kind of along the same lines, how often do you drain your pressure tanks to expel any accumulated debris, like sand, which I am expecting to see in mine.

Nope no sand filter in system, don't think it's THAT bad. Might find out differently when I drain the tank.

 

The tank is a bottom feeder, in that all accumulation will be expelled as you use it. Not like a water heater that top feeds. Whatever is downline will get the sand. Definitely consider a filter system.

 

Thanks Chandler. At least I don't need to worry about sand in the pressure tank.

Yahhhhh it's always in my toilet tank. None in my tap water though and I hear that is the best measure of severity.

 

Water Filters are a good thing . . . . I think.

When I first bought this house, we used to find the parts of frogs, salamanders and drowned mice in our sink aerators. With a strainer on the foot valve at the shallow well, and a sediment filter in the basement, we no longer see such things . . . . ignorance is bliss. Our faucets run free and clear; problem solved !

I tell my Wife that it's good to know our water supply is clean and healthful enough to support other lifeforms.

 

arghhhhhhHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH Vermont!!!!!!!!

:HF2:

 

OK. So I'm out there watering today and I think there might be even LESS pressure on the long run hose.

And it just dawned on me that maybe it is that particular hydrant!

I haven't noticed any pressure changes coming off the other 2 hydrants. Neighbor said this particular brand of frost-free hydrant that I have (from Home depot) is crap.

How would I test the hydrant? Hmmm. Wonder if I have any instructions for them anywhere.