It's still doing pretty good.

Now I read here or somewhere that this only works one time.

True or not?

Like If I got another bag, would it help it even more? since it did never get all the way down as some said it should.

But at 100 bucks a bag,, well ya know.

Joe

 

Ok the system returned back to the way it was before adding the oxygen powder.

If I added this stuff forever, it would possibly work fine. But at $100 bucks a month... well....

So I'm back to where I started a stinky soppy mess in the yard.

Now I am actually amazed that this system lasted 40+ years. Since it appears that the Leech "Field" isn't much of one. Just a single 20 foot or so pipe with the holes in it about 2 feet down below grade level. That's it!

So just a 20 foot pipe lasted 40+ years, I'm thinking,, I could rent a trencher, or worst case even dig by hand, and how about simply adding more to that pipe?

if 20 feet lasted 40 years if I should add another 20,or 40 or whatever fits nicely, think this would make the system operational again? The only place "Water" is visible is directly over the existing 20 foot pipe length.

So if I stretch it out another 20 or 40, or add another TEE and make two more 20 foot lines, think this would help the system?

Now if this is a "YES" then what actually would be better?

The trench would of course be just as deep as the existing line's end, and maybe even after that point slope down some also in to aid the "Draining" action,

Now what would be "Better"?

Use that 4" pipe with the holes

My thoughts are dig trench about a foot deeper than needed, lay in it about a foot deep of rocks say the size of ohhh golf balls, so there is lots of path for drainage, then lay the pipe, then cover the pipe with another foot of the rocks. then finally dirt to the ground level.

OR

Dig the trench as described above, and also fill as described above, but no pipe. just let the "Fluid" percolate through the rock medium.

Thoughts?

Thanks

 

Years ago I had a system that was never installed correctly from the get go. When it failed, I found it only had about 5' of leech line that was actually working. Besides clearing out the mess I inherited I also added 40' of line. It was still preforming well when I sold the place 5+ yrs later. Remember you have to do more than just dig a trench, it needs to have enough gravel filled in so it can work along with a weed barrier on top of the pipe to prevent root growth in the lines.

You are supposed to get a permit to work on the septic system although I must admit I didn't when I worked on mine. I suspect the health dept would want to see the drain field brought up to current code [possibly 300' of line]

 

Over the past month or so, I started with the same soppy, soggy, wet mess in the yard, Then a month ago I started some changes.

I,, one location at a time changed the gray water from entering the septic tank, to sprinkling the dry grass in the yard.

First was the kitchen sink, this made the level in the vent pipe out in the leech field drop 1.5 inches, hmmmm,

Next was the washing machine even tho this was a efficient front loader I grey watered it too and the level in the field dropped another inch,

Next was the bathtub, and another 2 inch dropped,

next the bathroom sink, and again another 2 inch level dropped.

Then on the 30th of june I changed out an old vintage early 70 toilet that had to be 3.5 to 4 gallon a flush. I changed that out to the most efficient I could find a 0.8 gal per flush unit,, It got installed on the 30th, of course this still goes to the septic tank, and on July 1st 24 hours later the field had dropped 7 inches!!!! and 24 hours after that it dropped another 4.5 inches!

7.5 more to go and the field will be totally DRY!!!!

COOL!!!

 

But it'll be bone dry only because you've stopped using it . . . . and that's not the objective.

I think that in the long run, you want a waste water disposal system that functions normally . . . . and the way to get that is to do the perc tests to locate a place on your property that can serve as a new absorption field and install a new leach field there.

The current bed is saturated and no longer drains

If money is the issue, some States have grants available for small scale sewage abatement projects like this; because doing nothing is considered a health hazard.

 

You Say
"If money is the issue, some States have grants available for small scale sewage abatement projects like this; because doing nothing is considered a health hazard. "

This State "Wisconsin" used to have a program like that. It was an awesome program. They outright paid for 1/2 the cost, and then applied the rest to the house in the form of like an interest free loan, with no minimum payments even. Just had a lien on the house so if you were to sell it before paying it back, they would get paid first. It was awesome, and served the state perfectly for decades.

Then Scott Walker and his crowd took over the state, and anything like this got scrapped and tossed out. Anything environmental got tossed. He fired 1/2 the DNR (Department of Natural Resources) Even the State park system! He cut funding to it, and now a bunch are closing, and many are looking for alternate funding like selling the name to some big business. Like instead of Devils Lake State Park, it would become Oscar Mayer State Park or similar.

If it aint good for Big Business It's dead here in Wisconsin.

 

All along, I thought you were in Wyoming (WY) !

I'm also from Wisconsin (Milwaukee) but I don't know anything about their current regulations.

You still need a new Leach Field; there's no escaping it.

 

Walker Budget Ends Program That Helps People Update Septic Systems | Wisconsin Public Radio

 

In retrospect, it looks like you should have taken advantage of those Grants in 2007 when the problem was first uncovered ?

 

Very true,,,
But what good timing right, economy is in the septic tank, and was a week before that a victim of the downsizing company, yeah...

But the field is still dropping. Not as fast anymore but still making progress, yesterday evening it was down to 5"

 

I like the DIY option suggested by yourself and others. At least you'd have a functioning field. 20' isn't all that bad, unless your physically unable.
If the existing pipeline is clogged...that is, the field is plugged, then that section of field is toast. Adding to the length may not be the best course of action, since the first 20' is seeping to the surface. Shame you can't technically do it yourself. I know very little about conventional fields, except what I've read and that I couldn't have one.
I enjoy the research aspect...I read somewhere that there are all-in-one pipes, prewrapped with pseudo drain rock and fabric. You just drop it in trench and hook it up. I'd do a parallel line to old line, that is far enough away from saturated field. There must be literature on length required for size of household, distance required from parallel lines, etc.
But at the end of day, if a government bureaucrat will require you to hire a professional, then your sol. What would a pro do? Dig a parallel line and bury a new pipe, just like the old? If the tank isn't cracked, reuse it?
First thing I would do is find out how big your existing tank is...

 

Those are becoming more common, I've had 2 septic systems installed with it and they seem to work well. The length of the drain field is determined by the local authority [usually health dept] with the specs set by both the type of ground and the bldg it services.

Most places require the work to be done by a licensed pro, if diy is allowed, I'd expect the inspection process to be more thorough than normal. It is a lot more involved than just digging a ditch and laying the pipe!