I replaced a wayne 1/2 hp shallow well jet pump last year, mostly for irrigation purposes, since we are now on rural water. I used it intermittently and for the most part worked ok. It would lose its prime sometimes if it sat for a while. Now it will run ok and build pressure, shut off and then the pressure starts to drop. Is there a check valve somewhere that may be failing? Can I simply put a check valve in line between the pump and pressure tank? I don' have much time to address this issue, as I will be traveling soon and often.

Any help is appreciated.

Steve z

 

Don't put a check valve there. If you want to put a check valve anywhere, put in the front of the pump on the inlet side.

I'm a little confused about your system. Do you have valves after the tank to turn different sprinkler heads on and off? If you do, and all of them are closed, but you lose pressure then check those valves because one is probably leaking.

There really isn't a need for a tank in a sprinkler system. We hardly have any on ours around here. Only time is if someone wants to use the well water to wash the car and turn the water on and off.

Around here, when the pump is on, the sprinkler heads are squirting and when it is off, they aren't. Digital sprinkler zone controllers have a connection to trigger a solenoid to turn the pump on and off.

 

I have a 15-25 foot well that provided a lot of water yesterday with my old 1/2 hp Gould pump. Yesterday I replaced it with a brand new 1hp Craftsman shallow jet pump and I cannot get it to prime. Note: Even though I had disconnected and connected the old pump a few times form the well line, I didn't need to add water to the line leading to the well when I was using the old pump yesterday and was still getting a prime, so not sure why it would be a problem with the new pump, although they are different pumps. The old ½ hp pump would prime and draw water but was getting old so I wanted to replace it.
After installing the new pump, I filled it with water and I even filled the pipe leading down to the well with water. I added a lot of water to the line leading from the well but it never completely filled up that I could tell so I’m not sure if I need to keep adding water or not. As I mentioned earlier, I didn’t even worry about adding water to the old pump and it primed okay. I have a check valve (new) installed just before the pump on the line coming from the well. The arrow on the valve is pointing to the pump as it should. When I turn on the pump the PSI doesn't rise over 15 and I don't get water to draw from the well. The pump has a 40/60 switch that came with it. I also installed a new pressure tank that has 38psi when empty of water. Anyway, I ran the new pump for about 3-5 minutes with no success. I did this 3 different times. I’m afraid to burn the pump out. I filled the pump with water and tipped it towards the check valve to see if water was leaking out and nothing came out. Is this a viable test to see if the check valve is keeping water from going back down into the well line? Can you help?

 

Is this the pump you have? It already has a built in check valve on the end...

[ATTACH=CONFIG]35786[/ATTACH]

 

To get mine to prime and need to fill the pump with water a few times. I cycle the power on then off a few times to help it pull.. ( Cant explain why it works that way)

You need to fill the line from the pump to well. If water will not fill you may have a faulty ft valve down there. But even if faulty once you manage to get it primed the check valve at the pump will hold the water in the line..

Kind of like putting your finger over a straw filled with water..

Last you may have a suction leak on the line from pump to well.. ( Maybe from one of your connections...)

 

Last, going from a 1/2 hp to a 1 hp pump may cause you problems with that shallow well. The 1 hp pump may over draw the well and you may suck up air..

Is there a valve after the pump? Close that valve to prime.

 

This is how the draw down works. If you draw it down to the ft valve level thats when you will see issues.. ( Your ft valve may or may not be at the bottom of the well as shown here)

 

That's a GREAT picture. I just wished it said that at ~25 feet pumping becomes very hard.

Also 3GPM is okay for a house, but for irrigation (low (30psi) pressure, high volume) pumping 3GPM = one rotary sprinkler head.

I mention this because most shallow wells are primarily used for irrigation these days.

 

Hey guys, thank. And I love that picture! Ok, I now have the pump primed and it puts out a great flow of water. I checked this by bypassing the tank through a valve I have inline before the tank. I have a new issue. The craftsman pump says the pressure switch is a 40/60. I have a 40 gallon tank. With the tank empty I pressurized it to 38psi, 2psi below the cut-in of 40. Sounds good so far, I believe. Now, when I run the pump, I get up to about 32-35psi per the gauge on the pump itself and on another one on the line going into the tank. They both read the same pressure regardless. It's only about 2 1/2 feet between the two gauges so that makes sense. However, the problem is that the pressure never changes (unless I open a faucet or the valve by the tank) and then it shoots back up to the same 32-35psi, AND during this whole process, the pump never turns off! I can only guess that the switch is really set at 40/60 from the mfr as it states. At one point I lowered the pressure in the tank while it was running to see if it would take on water with less pressure in the tank and it did. So any ideas?

 

Are you saying the pump never shuts off? And will only pressurize to 32 psi?

 

Correct. It never shuts off. Pressure is now remaining at 36psi. Very close to the 38psi in the tank. No water goes in tank. When I go to drain the tank to check the tank pressure, I only get a cupful at most.

So, to reiterate:

I cannot get the tank to fill up with the 12 gallons of water it is supposed to. I have a 15-25 ft well. I have a NEW 40 gallon Pro Source Composite Pressure Tank. I also have a NEW 1hp Craftsman Convertible Jet Pump with a 40/60 switch and a check valve just before the well water goes into the pump. Pump primes and runs great. Excellent water flow. If I connect a garden hose to the tee in the tank, I can get water to pump out all day so I know I’m not running the well dry. The pump is directly connected to the tank. Problem is the Tank will NOT take on water. I get a steady 36psi at both the pump and in the line going to the tank, but the tank will not take on any water at all! Since the switch is a 40/60, I have precharged the tank at 38psi with tank empty. Why are the pump and the tank pressures nearly the same? Are they offsetting each other and as a result the tank will not take on water? The pump will not shut off on its own, it just keeps running at 36psi. So how can I test the switch settings in this situation? Why won’t the pump turn off? And, why won’t the tank take on water? I could find no leaks whatsoever. Can you help?

 

Can you help with my problem? I'm not sure how these forums work for sure so hope this goes alright. I cannot get the tank to fill up with the 12 gallons of water it is supposed to. I have a 15-25 ft well. I have a NEW 40 gallon Pro Source Composite Pressure Tank. I also have a NEW 1hp Craftsman Convertible Jet Pump with a 40/60 switch and a check valve just before the well water goes into the pump. Pump primes and runs great. Excellent water flow. If I connect a garden hose to the tee in the tank, I can get water to pump out all day so I know I’m not running the well dry. The pump is directly connected to the tank. Problem is the Tank will NOT take on water. I get a steady 36psi at both the pump and in the line going to the tank, but the tank will not take on any water at all! Since the switch is a 40/60, I have precharged the tank at 38psi with tank empty. Why are the pump and the tank pressures nearly the same? Are they offsetting each other and as a result the tank will not take on water? The pump will not shut off on its own, it just keeps running at 36psi. So how can I test the switch settings in this situation? Why won’t the pump turn off? And, why won’t the tank take on water? I could find no leaks whatsoever. Can you help?

 

I combined the threads you have going...

The pump should be able to build the 60 psi the pressure switch dictates..

You must have a suction leak...

Can you take a pic of the set up?

How are you checking the air in the tank?

 

1. I don't see any water leaks anywhere.
2. When I open the line anywhere there's a big "whoosh" of air built up in the line.
3. If I shut a valve right outside the discharge line and before the tank, I can maybe get to 39psi.
4. The pump just doesn't want to turn up or go higher with the psi.
4. I will attach 4 photos of the setup.

thank you

 

Forgot to answer your one question. Whenever I check the pressure in the tank, I ensure the tank is drained of any water and any air let out of the line, then use the tire gauge to check the pressure of the tank. It always maintains the 38psi I pre-charged it with prior to turning on the pump (hoping the tank will then fill up with the required 12 gallons of water).

Hope this helps

 

You have the wrong pump there for a one pipe system..

Show us the front of the pump...

You have a 2 pipe pump like this...



You need a one pipe pump like this with a venturi...




You need a converter like this.. Craftsman makes one. This is for reference ...



Wayne Shallow Well Jet Assembly /Ejector for Convertible Well Jet Pump 59915-LWS1

 

1. So, you're saying I need to get the converter kit?
2. Do I need to leave the two openings unplugged?
3. Does the kit fit over the front where the 2 openings are located?
4. Is this an easy thing to install?
5. Are there instructions for this somewhere that I can read?
6. Is this a common mistake? Is this a common step to take?
7. Is there anything else I need to change in the setup?

Thank you!

 

1-6---yes

Or just get a new pump and bring that one back...

7 no...

I will find you info tomorrow.