Well Storage Tank Pressure
#1
10-02-14, 06:30 PM
Well Storage Tank Pressure
My wife and I just moved into a new house a few weeks ago. The water usually runs fine, but when it runs out we don't have water for about 5 min before the holding tank starts filling back up (I'm guessing it's supposed to start filling before it's totally empty) The tank is a wellmate wm14-wb. It says the factory precharge is 40 psi. The cover on the control says its supposed to go on at 30 and go off at 50. The other day at looked at the pressure gauge and it was at 70, then later got up to 90. I did replace some cpvc that was coming from the tank because the previous owner had a disgusting filter that was leaking everywhere. I cut that whole section out and ran new cpvc with no filter. I'm just mentioning that in case it has some effect on the tank pressure. I can't imagine why it would, I used 3/4" cpvc which is the same size as was there before. Just wondering what I should do. Thanks, Dan.
#2
10-02-14, 07:50 PM
Group Moderator
Welcome to the forums.
Taking so long to recharge could be a problem with delivery of your well.
The high pressure in your system is not good. The pressure switch controls the system pressure. You may have a defective pressure switch or the connection between that switch and the water source is plugged and the pressure switch can't see true water pressure.
A picture or two of your setup there will help us to help you better.
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...rt-images.html
Taking so long to recharge could be a problem with delivery of your well.
The high pressure in your system is not good. The pressure switch controls the system pressure. You may have a defective pressure switch or the connection between that switch and the water source is plugged and the pressure switch can't see true water pressure.
A picture or two of your setup there will help us to help you better.
http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...rt-images.html
#3
10-03-14, 03:49 AM
I go with the defective switch. You may find crud in the tube it sits on, which is keeping accurate on and off cycles from happening. I would try replacing the switch and cleaning the tube first. I would also reduce the tank precharge to 28 lbs
Last edited by chandler; 10-03-14 at 04:24 AM.
#4
10-03-14, 05:17 AM
Group Moderator
Also, in order to get the system working you will need a good, accurate pressure gauge on the water system and an accurate tire pressure gauge. Don't believe what's written on the switch and pressure tank as they are both adjustable and can change over time.
Definitely check the nipple leading to your pressure switch. Also look inside the small hole at the base of the pressure switch. Both can become clogged with rust or debris effectively isolating the pressure switch from the system causing it to react very sluggishly (too late) or not at all. Pressure switches and pipe nipples are both pretty inexpensive so it might not hurt to replace them if you suspect a problem.
Then set the air pressure in your pressure tank. Turn off the circuit breaker to your well pump. Open a faucet until the water stops flowing (then close the faucet). Check the air pressure inside your pressure tank and write or remember the number. Then turn the breaker on for your well pump. The pump will come on and fill the system. Once its filled and shuts off have someone open a faucet while you look at the water pressure gauge. It will slowly drop and you want to listen for the "click" of the pressure switch turning the pump on. Note the pressure at which the pump turns on. That's your cut in pressure. You want the air pressure in the pressure tank, when the system is bled, to be 2-3 psi less than your pump's cut in (turn on) pressure.
Definitely check the nipple leading to your pressure switch. Also look inside the small hole at the base of the pressure switch. Both can become clogged with rust or debris effectively isolating the pressure switch from the system causing it to react very sluggishly (too late) or not at all. Pressure switches and pipe nipples are both pretty inexpensive so it might not hurt to replace them if you suspect a problem.
Then set the air pressure in your pressure tank. Turn off the circuit breaker to your well pump. Open a faucet until the water stops flowing (then close the faucet). Check the air pressure inside your pressure tank and write or remember the number. Then turn the breaker on for your well pump. The pump will come on and fill the system. Once its filled and shuts off have someone open a faucet while you look at the water pressure gauge. It will slowly drop and you want to listen for the "click" of the pressure switch turning the pump on. Note the pressure at which the pump turns on. That's your cut in pressure. You want the air pressure in the pressure tank, when the system is bled, to be 2-3 psi less than your pump's cut in (turn on) pressure.
#6
10-03-14, 07:02 AM
Group Moderator
We can't see how the pressure switch is connected to your plumbing but it looks like all old iron pipe so there is a very good chance the nipple to the pressure switch is restricted with rust.
