clay drain tile
#1
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clay drain tile
Is there any way to repair clay drain tile without digging up the hole basement and yard?
like some kind of rubberized lining.
like some kind of rubberized lining.
#2
I just went through the process of dealing with a drain line from my basement out to my septic tank; a line comprised of some PVC (in the basement), some Clay, some Orangeburg (that cheap asphault/cellulose pipe), and then a short piece of PVC into the septic. Tree roots had begun invading the Orangeburg and the Oakum packed joints in the Clay.
I would have hired someone if I had known ho much work was involved, and that the line went under the crawl space of a SunRoom addition . . . . necessitating hand digging.
I talked to many people about alternatives (like a lining); but none appeared. Luckily I discovered that the Clay was uniformly 4' in length and I dug up each joint; cleaned it out, and repacked it with new Oakum, sealed it up with Hydraulic Cement, and sprinkled Copper Sulphate around the joint to discourage mare roots.
The Orangeburg (which has only a 50 year life expectancy) was completely replaced with new PVC.
I did them one joint at a time, and kept the system running all the while. I hope you don't have more than 50 or 75 feet, and that the pipe isn't more that 2 or 3 feet deep. You may find it most efficient to replace everything with new PVC. I would have done so if it weren't for the Clay tiles I discovered under my SunRoom.
I would have hired someone if I had known ho much work was involved, and that the line went under the crawl space of a SunRoom addition . . . . necessitating hand digging.
I talked to many people about alternatives (like a lining); but none appeared. Luckily I discovered that the Clay was uniformly 4' in length and I dug up each joint; cleaned it out, and repacked it with new Oakum, sealed it up with Hydraulic Cement, and sprinkled Copper Sulphate around the joint to discourage mare roots.
The Orangeburg (which has only a 50 year life expectancy) was completely replaced with new PVC.
I did them one joint at a time, and kept the system running all the while. I hope you don't have more than 50 or 75 feet, and that the pipe isn't more that 2 or 3 feet deep. You may find it most efficient to replace everything with new PVC. I would have done so if it weren't for the Clay tiles I discovered under my SunRoom.
#3
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There are several different no dig options but it depends on someone in your area that does that sort of thing. You did not say where you are located so you'll just have to check around. In my area people that do no dig are some distance away so it's more economical to just dig everything up. If you have someone more locally that can do the work the price might be more tolerable.
Here are two of the more common methods: A rigid pipe can be pulled through your old pipe. A hardened head bursts your old pipe and makes room for the new as it's pulled through. Another method pulls a resin impregnated sock through the line and a rubber bladder is inflated inside the sock forcing it against the walls of your old pipe while the resin hardens creating a new waterproof lining.
Here are two of the more common methods: A rigid pipe can be pulled through your old pipe. A hardened head bursts your old pipe and makes room for the new as it's pulled through. Another method pulls a resin impregnated sock through the line and a rubber bladder is inflated inside the sock forcing it against the walls of your old pipe while the resin hardens creating a new waterproof lining.