Diagram for the liberty LE50-Series sewage pump?


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Old 03-18-15, 06:09 PM
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Question Diagram for the liberty LE50-Series sewage pump?

I'm just curious exactly how these units work. I can't seem to find any documentation on the internals. Only that it has a two vane impeller. Does that mean it grinds the waist?
 
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Old 03-19-15, 05:18 AM
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No, that is not a macerator pump. It's a sewage pump designed to handle solids up to 2".

waist: the middle of your body where you put a belt
waste: the poo water this pump is designed to handle
 
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Old 03-19-15, 08:34 AM
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What I mean is, does the pump just suck the waste into a 2" hole at the bottom of the unit or does the impeller cut it up at all? I guess grind wasn't the word I should have used seeing this is obviously not the grinder series. ( sorry, my spelling is horrible )
 
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Old 03-19-15, 09:34 AM
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The pump is not designed specifically to break up material. The big open vanes are designed to pass objects of a certain size through without clogging but the speed of the impeller and turbulent flow breaks up a lot of softer items. If you tossed a golf ball in it it might make a clunk sound or two but would probably be passed through without harm. In most cases it's a more trouble free way of pumping waste as nothing that big should make it to the pump so it should be able to pass anything it sees without trouble.
 
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Old 03-19-15, 09:54 AM
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Good explanation! I just like to know how things work so If they stop I have something to base my troubleshooting on. My septic tank and pump will be in next week. Thanks for the info
 
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Old 03-19-15, 11:38 AM
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Since you are having a pump system installed it helps to snap a few pictures of the setup down in the tank for future reference. Float switches are a common failure point. It's good practice for them to be attached to a removable tower. The tower is usually just pvc pipe stuck into a base so it can be pulled up to replace the switches without entering the tank.

The pump is also something that can fail. Its good for it to be installed with union fittings high up in the tank and to have a rope tied to the pump. Again, the idea is to be able to replace or service it without having to enter the tank. Make sure the rope is somehow attached so it can't get sucked into the pump and that one end of the rope is attached up at the top of the tank.

If there is ever a problem you usually have to have the tank pumped so you can see what's, where inside the tank. Having pictures to refresh your memory of what goes where can sometimes allow you to fix something quickly and cheaply by not having to schedule a $300-$500 tank pumping as a first step.
 
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Old 03-19-15, 11:50 AM
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Great tips! I think the float on this unit can be replaced without entering the tank. I believe that was one of the features. https://www.libertypumps.com/Product...p=71&s=10&c=18
 
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Old 03-19-15, 04:25 PM
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You said septic tank so I was thinking big septic tank buried in the yard. That's a sewage ejector pit... easy peasy. A far better option than the small systems that often sit above the slab behind the toilet. If something fails you won't get much (any) warning because of the small tank volume but it uses full size components that are commonly available and easily replaced.
 
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Old 03-19-15, 04:37 PM
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Oh sorry, I'm obviously not a plumber Yes, that is what I was originally going to use, a saniflo. I decided to do it right and post the saniflo on craigslist.
 
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Old 03-20-15, 05:08 AM
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Oh, now I think I remember. Yes, I think you made a good decision.
 
 

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