Am I asking for trouble using these drains?


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Old 04-28-15, 09:34 AM
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Am I asking for trouble using these drains?

Putting together a new shallow-well pump for my cottage. I want to install a couple easy-to-use air bleeds to assist in winter drain-down--preferably without needing tools. This is the only type drain I can find in small sizes but I'm not impressed with the quality. Do these close without drips & last a long time?



My previous cottage pump had some very nice all-brass bleeds with nice big wing-nut type ears. Kinda spoiled me.
 
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Old 04-28-15, 10:15 AM
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IMO best to get 1/4" ball valve.

1/4 In Full Port Ball Valve

I had those type drains you show in your pic. They leaked and rusted so bad one broke right off.
 
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Old 04-28-15, 04:11 PM
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Got a mess there.
No way would I be using galzinized pipe.
You have galvinized pipe in direct contact with bronzed ball valves, sure way to have electrolisis and corriosion.
All your fixtures, tub, shower, sink will have rust stains from that steel pipe.
 
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Old 04-28-15, 04:40 PM
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How do you prevent freezing in that short vertical portion of pipe traveling upwards from the outlet of the pressure tank up to the horizontal section where you have the gate valve ?
 
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Old 04-28-15, 04:58 PM
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Thank you Larry-- that does look like an improvement. Are they made in 1/8"mpt? Mine are all brass except for the handle, btw.
 
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Old 04-28-15, 06:22 PM
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You have galvinized pipe in direct contact with bronzed ball valves, sure way to have electrolisis and corriosion.
The words are GALVANIZED, ELECTROLYSIS and CORROSION. Also, bronze with steel will NOT be a problem. Bronze (or brass) valves have been used with steel piping for more than 100 years without problem. Where there IS a problem using bronze or brass valves is when you use them with steam, they simply cannot take the temperature and remain tight.

I DO agree that steel pipe, is the wrong material. I would suggest using all copper and with soldered unions.

Guy, those "valves" are probably okay for as often as you will be using them. You could just use pipe plugs or nipples with caps for as often as you will be draining the set. I'd keep a spare drain valve or plug nearby for when one might leak. You will pay a fortune for 1/8 inch ball valves.
 
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Old 04-28-15, 06:28 PM
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Old 04-28-15, 06:44 PM
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Sixteen dollars vs. maybe a buck for a couple of brass plugs?
 
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Old 04-28-15, 07:22 PM
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Sixteen dollars vs. maybe a buck for a couple of brass plugs?

Yes and in defense of my first post I replaced mine with plugs... But then again I dont drain mine...
 
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Old 04-28-15, 07:40 PM
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"lawrosa": sorry-- brain fart I guess...

"Furd": not a fan of copper right now after what happened this winter. This is almost identical to the system I built for my previous cottage that gave me no trouble -- and that one was outside in a pit.

Anyone: my Goulds pump seems to have been supplied with a POS pressure switch. With screw 1 adjusted for the rated 30psi the best I can get for the cut-off is 42-- and that's with screw 2 bottomed out.
Any recommendations on a better switch? I want to run at 40-60 because that's the "sweet spot"in the pump curve (J5SH)
 
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Old 04-28-15, 07:46 PM
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b
ut now who is Joel? I thought you were Mike. Sooo confused...

Yes im mike... Joel is my good friend FURD!!!!...

Anyone: my Goulds pump seems to have been supplied with a POS pressure switch. With screw 1 adjusted for the rated 30psi the best I can get for the cut-off is 42-- and that's with screw 2 bottomed out.
Any recommendations on a better switch? I want to run at 40-60 because that's the "sweet spot"in the pump curve (J5SH)
Maybe the pump... need to check the pump curve. how deep is well? what was there before and how did it work? Also psi in well tank plays a part... need to set accordingly to pressure switch....
 
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Old 04-29-15, 08:05 AM
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Type too slow, Mike!

Pump, tank and curve are all checked, adjusted and good. Yesterday I was testing the unit in my driveway pumping from a 55G barrel so lift isn't the issue. I just can't get more than 12psi differential out of this switch no matter what range (screw1) or limit (screw2) setting. It's a Square Deal switch--which I thought was the best. Maybe they make a crap model in China or something.

Will I do any better at one of the big box stores...do REAL plumbing supply houses carry a better grade?
 
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Old 04-29-15, 08:49 AM
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Did you start out with a 40/60 Switch ?

Square "D" Pressure Switches are manufactured as 20/40, 30/50 or 40/60.

Except minor adjustments, you can't really change them from their factory settings. You cannot turn a 20/40 into a 40/60 without changing the springs to a different strength.
 
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Old 04-29-15, 12:52 PM
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Pump came with a 30/50 and I can't even get close to that. I would prefer 40/60 but was willing to settle for the "freebie"... but that isn't working out.
 
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Old 04-29-15, 01:28 PM
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You should be able to adjust that pressure switch. Ive adjust many that were 20/40 to 40/60...

One screw raises/lowers both and the other adjusts cut in only..

The large one in center turns CCW to raise both cut in/out and same time. CW lowers the cut in/out.

You should not of had to touch the smaller one.

and that's with screw 2 bottomed out.
Your turning it the wrong way...

 
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Old 04-29-15, 07:08 PM
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It does look exactly like that but the label directions are completely opposite of what you're saying:



The label directions do make sense to me in that increasing the spring pressure increases the water pressure needed to overcome it.

Regardless--I tried it all and can't build more than 42psi. It has to be damaged or defective.
 
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Old 04-30-15, 07:35 AM
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Searched a little online for "Square D 9013FSG2*" and I'm seeing some with a "Square D Pumptrol" lid. Some have "Made in USA" molded in, most don't. Is that the only way to shop for a US-made one --by looking at it?
 
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Old 04-30-15, 01:42 PM
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Ummm IDK, but It would be hard to believe you cant adjust the PSI correctly on that model..

The only way would be a plugged up hose going to the switch maybe..

Yes follow the instruction in your lid for adjustment.. But I think having one bottomed out is totally wrong and may be affecting the other adjuster...
 
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Old 05-01-15, 06:07 AM
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I'm pretty sure it's a defective switch. It didn't start out with the adjustment bottomed out--it ended up there after I tried ALL adjustment combinations.
Looked all over online & made some calls to plumbing supplies. No US-made switches could be found so I bought another Square D FSG model (but 40-60), made in Mexico. Right out of the box it was set nearly perfect. Cut in was dead on at 40psi, cut out at 56...so I tightened the #2 nut a bit to bring it up to 60.
The only problem is the only 40-60 stocked at this supply house was a version with a low-pressure cutoff/manual start lever. I understand why but it's a complication I didn't want to deal with when explaining to guests how to turn on the water. If I wasn't in a rush to get this installed this weekend I would have ordered exactly what I need online and save a few bucks in the process.

Anyways it works great and the 14gal tank gives the pump a nice long rest (compared to the teacup-size one in the old system).

Last night:

 
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Old 05-26-15, 06:51 AM
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