pressure pulsing after replacing tank


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Old 06-10-15, 05:18 AM
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pressure pulsing after replacing tank

I replaced my well pressure tank not long ago, which had been bad for a while. For access reasons I placed it in the crawlspace (where there had been a second, also waterlogged tank) rather than the pumphouse. Initially the water pressure was much improved, but the pump seemed to come on more than it should. Turns out I used a smaller tank than I should have. I can hear/feel the pump coming on (or the tank emptying) every 45 seconds or so when I'm in the shower. The pressure falls, then increases again.

More recently the kitchen faucet has started doing a very hard pulse, much more frequently, maybe every 10 seconds or so. While this may be related to my larger problems I also suspect the faucet may be about at the end of its useful life.

How should I go about diagnosing and fixing my problems? I have a jet pump in a 95 foot well. There is no longer a functional pressure gauge on my system since the old pressure tank was unhooked. I can get pictures later today or tomorrow
 
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Old 06-10-15, 06:13 AM
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Check the air pressure charge in the pressure tank. It should be 2-3 psi less than the pump's cut in pressure. There are instructions for the procedure online and your pressure tank manufacturer should have them. You will need an accurate pressure gauge on your water system and an accurate tire pressure gauge to check the air pressure of the pressure tank.
 
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Old 06-10-15, 03:50 PM
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I forgot to mention-the new tank has 40 lbs in it. I just looked at the regulator cap and it says

ON 20
(cut-in) psi

OFF 40
(cut-out)


Should I bleed 23 pounds from the pressure tank as a temporary measure until I can get a new gauge installed? (is 17 lbs too low?)

And looking ahead, does the gauge have to be installed in a certain location? I'll get some pics loaded tonight.
 
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Old 06-10-15, 04:03 PM
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Yes, if your pump turns on at 20 psi you want the air pressure in the tank to be 17 or 18 psi when the water system is totally bled down (no water comes out when you open a faucet). You don't want to trust what's printed for the pressures as they are often a bit different but it will probably get you close. Having a good gauge on your water system and a good tire pressure gauge are best.
 
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Old 06-10-15, 04:19 PM
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Oh crap...I already bled it down with water pressure in there. Guess that explains why it was at 40. I'll have to do it again with the pump off and taps open
 
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Old 06-11-15, 06:34 PM
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Here's a pic of the pumphouse, with the old defunct tank. Can I just put the gauge where that (now) dead-end elbow is that used to go to the tank? Or should I put it in the crawlspace with the pressure tank? Or doesn't it matter?

After draining the pipes and bleeding the new pressure tank down to 17 lbs, I now have steady flow in every fixture except the kitchen sink, which still pounds audibly though perhaps less than before. I wasn't super impressed with the pressure when I showered this AM, but at least it was steady. Name:  pump 004.jpg
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Old 06-12-15, 10:49 AM
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Is that crickets I hear? Does the gauge have to be placed in a certain location relative to pump and tank?
 
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Old 06-13-15, 08:43 AM
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"except the kitchen sink, which still pounds audibly though perhaps less than before"

Here is a guide that explains how to get air out of lines.
How to Remove Air from Water Pipes | DoItYourself.com

I think the proper place to put a gauge is right after the tank, but before it goes into the house system. Here is a page that talks about it:
Water Pressure Gauge Installation Guide
 
 

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