Septic System - Eljen Septic Field, 1000g 2 chamber septic tank - Complete
#1
06-13-15, 03:13 PM
Septic System - Eljen Septic Field, 1000g 2 chamber septic tank - Complete
Hi all...thought I posted my septic system, but I guess I didn't. Probably because it was fairly easy for this first timer (instructions available online are about as simple as they can get - although I did have a couple). Not promoting Eljen system at all (American company). The real proof is 10-20 yrs from now. If it is still functioning, then maybe.
I had raw land, needed septic to even consider living on it, plus local ordinances require septic system to do so, legally. Problem: Property is one big rock, virtually no native soil. A Perc test would be comical.
So, I find and engineer to ask what type of system he will sign off on...Eljen. Requires making a field from the ground up. The plus, is that it can be small relative to normal fields.
I clear the area DOWNHILL from where I plan to have house (at least 25 away) and well (has to be 100ft from that up here). I basically put as far away from anything else, and out of sight.
The engineer said for a three bedroom house (based on bedrooms not toilets etc), I need a 1000g, 2 chamber septic tank with outlet filter, 2 - 44' rows of Eljen mats (works out to 22 mats which are 2'x4'. Giving allowances for perimeter and ends, the field dimensions are 10' x 50'. The tape measure you see in pic should be extended to 50' mark...I was trying work out angles and whatnot to fit in field and tank. The tank has to sit higher so the tank outlet can drain into distributor box (more on that later).
I had raw land, needed septic to even consider living on it, plus local ordinances require septic system to do so, legally. Problem: Property is one big rock, virtually no native soil. A Perc test would be comical.
So, I find and engineer to ask what type of system he will sign off on...Eljen. Requires making a field from the ground up. The plus, is that it can be small relative to normal fields.
I clear the area DOWNHILL from where I plan to have house (at least 25 away) and well (has to be 100ft from that up here). I basically put as far away from anything else, and out of sight.
The engineer said for a three bedroom house (based on bedrooms not toilets etc), I need a 1000g, 2 chamber septic tank with outlet filter, 2 - 44' rows of Eljen mats (works out to 22 mats which are 2'x4'. Giving allowances for perimeter and ends, the field dimensions are 10' x 50'. The tape measure you see in pic should be extended to 50' mark...I was trying work out angles and whatnot to fit in field and tank. The tank has to sit higher so the tank outlet can drain into distributor box (more on that later).
#3
06-13-15, 03:24 PM
I got a load or two of fill to give me a level area (3/8 minus is what they call it - basically dirt that can pass through a screen with 3/8" diameter mesh).
Once done that, I make a nice pad for septic tank...compact ground underneath so it doesn't sink when full.
Once done that, I make a nice pad for septic tank...compact ground underneath so it doesn't sink when full.
#4
06-13-15, 03:41 PM
I then realize the tank is too low, and I need another two loads of fill to get everything level, and fit in the space. Hard to see slope in pics, but the field is on a bench on a hill.
Ok, squared away, I can move on.
I then leveled the area, and stake out field.
Ok, squared away, I can move on.
I then leveled the area, and stake out field.
#5
06-13-15, 03:48 PM
I then got special sand called C33 sand...two truckloads. 12" of C33 required below Eljen mats and the remainder used on top and edges.
I then received the pipes, fittings, distributor and Eljen mats.
Then leveled C33 sand with a laser level...by the way, leveling is a pain.
I then received the pipes, fittings, distributor and Eljen mats.
Then leveled C33 sand with a laser level...by the way, leveling is a pain.
#6
06-13-15, 03:52 PM
I put two rows of mats on field (11 per row, butted up to each other), with 2 ft gap between rows.
The C33 is like beach sand, only softer, so you have walk flat footed or you'll be raking every step you take. Needless to say, you can't really compact the C33.
The C33 is like beach sand, only softer, so you have walk flat footed or you'll be raking every step you take. Needless to say, you can't really compact the C33.
#7
06-13-15, 04:11 PM
Then the piping...I glue together the perf PVC drain pipes (type with holes on one side). I attach them as you see..
Attachment 51943
I put a special fabric over staked down pipes...you can see I am short a few feet...resolved a day later. Probably because I wasn't conservative with it...I mean, what can it cost, to put a few extra feet in kit? Silly. The fabric is like landscape fabric.
I then carefully cover everything up with remaining C33 sand and get another few loads of fill to cover perf drain pipes by 1' ft...no more! says the engineer. Apparently, the field needs to breathe...
The outlet on tank is on far side (stuff leaving tank has no solids, so it can go around corners), so the incoming sewage takes as few bends as possible as it enters the inlet side of tank. The sewage from house comes straight down hill and makes two 45 degree bends.
The end of tank with nothing on it, is where everything goes in...
All of the Wye's are my curiosity ports....apparently not needed, but on larger systems, you need to have air intake at end of field. I figured, why not, at least I know exactly where the pipes are...
Attachment 51943
I put a special fabric over staked down pipes...you can see I am short a few feet...resolved a day later. Probably because I wasn't conservative with it...I mean, what can it cost, to put a few extra feet in kit? Silly. The fabric is like landscape fabric.
I then carefully cover everything up with remaining C33 sand and get another few loads of fill to cover perf drain pipes by 1' ft...no more! says the engineer. Apparently, the field needs to breathe...
The outlet on tank is on far side (stuff leaving tank has no solids, so it can go around corners), so the incoming sewage takes as few bends as possible as it enters the inlet side of tank. The sewage from house comes straight down hill and makes two 45 degree bends.
The end of tank with nothing on it, is where everything goes in...
All of the Wye's are my curiosity ports....apparently not needed, but on larger systems, you need to have air intake at end of field. I figured, why not, at least I know exactly where the pipes are...
#8
06-13-15, 04:19 PM
A year later...
I didn't get a chance to put a coating of topsoil on it and plant more grass...but whatever, the grass there will fill in. I posted this thread, as I was looking through my pics last night and I figured folks might appreciate a pictorial of a septic from start to finish. It took about 14 truckloads of dirt and C33 to do the job. The Eljen system was cheap relatively speaking. After one year, no seepage, all is good.
Put cute little boxes on distributor and tank to tidy things up and protect the tops from the sun and wayward drunks and bears.
Read the manual...I missed little details, like the holes in pipe sitting on mats are glued shut 6" from ends, the mats have an up side (painted mark), etc...
On the end of pipes going into Distributor, I put flow levelers, so one can adjust flow into each pipe...want even flow into both. Yellow things in there...
All in all, fairly easy. I took my sweet time...one good thing about this job, you can just leave whenever, as it doesn't matter if it rains.
I didn't get a chance to put a coating of topsoil on it and plant more grass...but whatever, the grass there will fill in. I posted this thread, as I was looking through my pics last night and I figured folks might appreciate a pictorial of a septic from start to finish. It took about 14 truckloads of dirt and C33 to do the job. The Eljen system was cheap relatively speaking. After one year, no seepage, all is good.
Put cute little boxes on distributor and tank to tidy things up and protect the tops from the sun and wayward drunks and bears.
Read the manual...I missed little details, like the holes in pipe sitting on mats are glued shut 6" from ends, the mats have an up side (painted mark), etc...
On the end of pipes going into Distributor, I put flow levelers, so one can adjust flow into each pipe...want even flow into both. Yellow things in there...
All in all, fairly easy. I took my sweet time...one good thing about this job, you can just leave whenever, as it doesn't matter if it rains.
