Recent upgrades and large pressure variance before and after pressure tank

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Old 06-20-15, 03:24 PM
J
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Recent upgrades and large pressure variance before and after pressure tank

Well
1: submersible pump.
2: age of well if known. 22 years
3: depth of well if known. Pump at 130’, reservoir to 250?
4: diameter of well if known. 8”
5: voltage of pump if known. 220
6: brand of pump/controller if known. Everbilt (Home Depot)
7: size of tank if known. Wellxtrol, can’t find model, about 4’ tall with bladder
System had a leak between house and pump, probably foot valve so I replaced the ½ HP pump with a ¾ HP pump since it was 22 years old. I also changed the cutoff from 30-50 to 40-60 thinking the 40 psi low limit would increase pressure in the house. Pressure has always been just barely sufficient, run a shower and a faucet and the pressure is weak.
Drained system and increased pressure tank to 35PSI.
Incoming pressure gauge (on the incoming side and also new) shows cut on/off working at 40-60.
I also have a second pressure gauge after the tank. Turn on a sink and the 2nd gauge drops (slowly) to 20psi before the pump kicks on again. The pre tank gauge reflects the cutoff switching on at 40psi.
Tested the water at a shower and I had better pressure when I used the 30-50 switch and pressure tank at 27 psi (and old pump). I don’t think it’s a pump issue, I lean now towards debris in the line after the tank. ¾” pvc coming out of the tank.
One other possibility. Have a lever cutoff valve after the tank. Doesn’t seem to work anymore. Could be stuck in partial open, so probably going to change it out or remove it.
I may take tank pressure back down to 27psi to see if it improves. I can always add air pressure. Should I take it back to the 30-50 cutoff?
Any guidance appreciated. Thanks for any help
 
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Old 06-20-15, 04:42 PM
P
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I'd go with some sort of restriction whether it be debris, partially closed valve or a pipe partially corroded closed. I don't think your higher pressure switch setting is the problem. The air pressure in the pressure tank may be a tad low but that wouldn't cause the problems you're seeing. You want the air in the pressure tank when the system is bled down to be 2-3 psi less than your pump's cut in pressure. Dropping the air pressure in the pressure tank won't help anything and will only cut the tidal capacity of the tank and cause the pump to cycle on and off more frequently.
 
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Old 06-20-15, 09:25 PM
J
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Thank you for getting back so quick. I have now changed out the second valve, it was about 25% closed. I can't see any reason why the two valves would vary so much except blockage. Only a few parts left, the tee and check valve, and I'll have replaced them all. I also opened up the hose bibb (?) on the tee and let it run a few minutes to possibly move any corrosion out.
I dropped the bladder pressure to 30 psi since system was drained already and I can always add it back if no help. I'll fire it back up after the glue dries enough and see what I have.
I'll post again as followup and if still a problem. Again, thanks very much.
 
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Old 06-21-15, 08:01 AM
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Just so you know, the bladder air pressure just determines how much water is left in your tank when the pump kicks on. By lowering it, you are only reducing how much water you will get from the tank between off/on pump cycles. The pump and pressure switch will ultimately determine your house pressures.

As Pilot said above, put the air pressure to about 2-3psi below your cut in pressure and by doing so you will ensure that the tank never totally empties (you don't want that) but you have as much water as possible between pump cycles from the tank (you do want that to reduce the wear and tear on your pump).
 
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Old 06-21-15, 08:19 AM
Z
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I wonder if switching the 2 gauges might shed any light. I guess a faulty gauge won’t increase the pressure but it might give you a little piece of mind in that you are getting good readings. Just a thought!

(I had a bad gauge once that ran me in circles till I figured out the gauge was bad.)
 
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Old 06-21-15, 04:42 PM
J
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I am pleased to advise that with your help, problem solved. I have increased pressure back up and all is now well (pun intended). I found the blockage and cleared it out and gauges are agreeing again. And all fittings are holding.

Thanks for confirming what I thought but didn't know, and for replying so quickly. I am truly grateful.
 
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