So, I am refinishing my basement with a kitchen, bathroom and living area. I have done most of the work myself but had a plumber friend come to tie in the plumbing and move some pipes around.

I broke concrete , dug out and installed a ejector pit and I believe we were one more day away from getting ready for a rough in inspection. That was 4 months ago and I haven't been able to get him back. I am pretty sure I can do the work myself but I am not so sure of what exactly needs to be done for the rough inspection. Am I better off doing the rest myself or going with another plumber that would know exactly what the inspector is going to look for?

Below is a diagram of the current work done. The lines indicate what pipes need to be connected.

 

If your local codes allow home owners to do their own plumbing you may be able to contact the inspector and discuss the problem. They may be willing to come out and walk you through what needs to be done. Working with them is far better than working around them.

Bud

 

That does sound like the best route. I have a general permit to start the project but i'm not sure if he was supposed to pull a permit specifically for the plumbing before he started. Any idea? I'm not looking to get anyone in trouble or end up with a fine.

 

A permit or not would be the policy in your area, but if one was needed it would have been the responsibility of the plumber to pull it, he has the license. If you pulled a permit for the work you have done but he did not pull one for the plumbing, he should be the one to hustle down and get the permit. Maybe reminding him of that would get him back to finish the work. If he does not have a license or whatever is required, then he does not have insurance and should not have been the primary plumber.

This is all my opinion and maybe others will comment as well, but putting your cards on the table now will go in your favor as everything gets sorted out. The age of doing any work on ones home without all required permits is coming to an end. Mr computer system never forgets and future owners or inspectors will only need to push a few buttons to find out who gets the bill.

Bud

 

My area definitely requires permits, I'm just not sure of what order the permits are supposed to be had. He is a licensed plumber but he was doing this on the cheap so maybe he didn't do things in the proper order.

I made it clear that I was doing this 100% legit as I do not want to have to rip everything out if I ever sell my house. two months ago when I asked him if he was going to make it that week to finish up he told me his kid was in the hospital with heart issues, the week before that he was moving his wifes stuff out of the house the week before that he was swamped with work etc.

I guess it may be time to call him again and nudge him with the permit issue and I guess this is why you don't hire friends.

 

Permits are to be taken out prior to any work being performed. A copy of the permit is to be posted at the work site so if no permit is posted it is quite possible that he never took out a permit. Massachusetts is one of the most most restrictive states in the country when it comes to permitting and it is definitely possible that ONLY a licensed "Master Plumber" can pull a permit so even if your friend is a licensed journeyman plumber he may be prohibited from pulling the permit. Homeowners may also be prohibited from pulling plumbing (and other) permits.

Additionally, you should be able to search the data base against your address to see if any permit was issued. You may be able to do this via the Internet or it may take a trip to city hall.

I'd like to tell you that a competent DIYer could finish the project but it all depends upon the LOCAL codes in effect and I have no idea of your local codes beyond what i already wrote. Based upon my knowledge of how restrictive your state is I suspect that you will need the services of a licensed master plumber.

Sorry.

 

What are those vents tieing into? Something looks wrong that it looks like a drain..


Also clearly those lines are so far away from the tie in that pitch will be an issue

 

lawrosa, I was going to ask about the vent when I got to that part. I am not really sure but I assumed it was one of the existing pipes from the bathroom directly above the sewer line seeing thats where the vent pipe he put in stopped. I attached better pictures of the pipes I will be tieing into as well as the pitch of the sewer line from the ejector system.

 

Thank you Furd! I just did a search for permits pulled on my home and the only one listed is the one I pulled (and an older one from before I purchased the house). I'm pretty sure he is a master plumber as he has a legit plumbing business. I think he was just being lazy with the permits.

 

I can only help if you show me specific pics on what each line is.. Mark them somehow..

Remember I am not there...

Where is this pit?
There should be a vent for the pit. All those other vents tie into the pit vent..
Where is the sewage ejecting to?
Need to know what drains into the lines above? I see a stack but cant really tell what is what..

 

I'm going to try and upload a video of the whole run. It is really hard to show you with pictures.

But the sewage ejector is on the far right of the original picture behind the furnace and under the duct work. The pipe coming out of the ejector pit is the vent pipe (discharge pipe has not been threaded in yet)

Above the sewage stack is a full bathroom (toilet, tub, sink). I believe the pipe closest to the wall is the vent that goes to the roof?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1B-pgXJrv3wRV8tY1pMV1dsZnM/view?usp=sharing

 

I see a fitting with a cleanout plug upside down? Is this what you say is the vent?

What drains down that line?

 

Yes, that appears to be the vent for the upstairs bathroom. Just the washing machine in the basement which now that I look at how its set up seems totally illegal as when its draining the washing machine its blocking the main sewer vent.

 

So the upstairs sink drains down that?

Run hot water at the upstairs sink. Does that pipe get warm?

Run the tub upstairs.. That same pipe get warm?

I see the toilet from upstairs runs into the stack. I see another pipe off the side of where that toilet ties in.. Where does that go.. ( Looks like a newer white pipe)

 

Thats fine so far. I just need to know what runs down each pipe I asked in previous post...

 

Yes, both tub and sink cause 3' pipe to get warm when running hot water. Seems like the upstairs bathroom sink runs directly into the main 3" stack and the toilet comes off of the main 3" stack T fitting then the new bright white 2" pipe goes comes from the tub and goes into the side of the T fitting. Hope that made sense.

 

oh, sorry, the upstairs kitchen sink also drains into the 3" stack. I'd love to just get this all tied in and then just call the plumber to order the inspection.

 

Just a comment, but getting another plumber to come in and take responsibility for the work that is there may not be that easy. He would have to pull a permit and it would be his license and his insurance on the line for any problems. Maybe you will find one, but don't expect it to be cheap and be ready for a few "no thank you" replies.

Bud

 

Right, and totally understandable he really left me in a tough spot.

 

Remove that clean out cap tee for that vent and make it an elbow. Thats too low for you to tie in anyway..right?

Tie it all togther and go to the town and see if you can take your own permits out, or see if any were taken out.

Then have inspector come.

Wait and see what they say..

You need more then just plumbing permits right? Electrical? Plus whatever building permit for the reno...

IMO your in for a little bumpy ride..

You boxing those pipes over by the window?
Do you have an exhaust fan installed in the bath?
Since your closing up the walls near the furnace did anyone account for proper combustion air for that and the water heater?
Will this be a living space for anyone?

Buy not taking permits out and planned accordingly you may get an immeadiate stop work issued.. Towns dont like when you go around them.

Your probably going to get your hand slapped on this one.. Maybe a fine..

Just saying is all..

Possibly ill tell about my $2500 fine for not taking out a permit..

 

Yes, I need more permits.

Yes, I'm going to build a soffit around the pipes above the window.

I will have an exhaust fan. The bathroom is on an outside corner wall so venting should not be an issue. I havn't got to it yet though.

The furnace room is not being finished it will stay as a utility room housing the furnace, on demand hot water heater, electrical panel and house alarm as well as all of the main shutoffs ( Gas and Water)

I told the building inspector I would like to make it legal to code for someone to sleep down there but I am not putting a separate bedroom. I was told I will need to replace one rear window for proper egress.

The more I look at this the more it looks like a fairly simple couple hours work to tie in.
I know the vent coming from the ejector pit has to be a certain height in case of backup but I can not seem to find specifics on what that height is. Is this high enough? Other than that, how does everything else look?

Yellow lines indicate where I would place the pipes to tie in to vents only:

 

For the vent you need continuous upward pitch... 1/8 " per ft minimum from pit to tie in. As in your pic you cannot go back down to meet your connection point..

The discharge is pumped but after you go horizontal you need 1/4" per ft from pit to tie in to the waste line.. ( Not sure where you are tieing in.. Possibly 1/8 per ft if inspector allows it..

I dont think you have any of these proper pitches...

You have a lot of work ahead.. And some complicated connection where code may not allow,,

The bath design may have been wrong from the start and maybe should of been by the window and vent. That would of allowed the pit to be placed closer to the vent..

Just what my 30 years as a plumber tells me..

I will forward this to our local carpenter to see if he has any input..

Also what was done to electrical? I will let the local electric member comment too..

Who did the electric?

Check valve is needed too.

 

Oh, I didn't know about the upward pitch for the vent!How should I tie in the vent from the ejector pit then? The pipes for the vent and discharge are on adjustable hangers.

The electric rough was pretty much run but nothing was connected to the panel. Again, a friend of mine that has an electricians business did this.

I have a silent check valve waiting to be installed ( you can see it in the picture below resting in the 3" toilet pipe)

 

Your two most important permits will be electrical and plumbing. Since it is a remodel, aside from not covering anything up until final inspection, the carpentry should not require a permit. Check to be sure. If all you are doing is building soffits for the piping, make sure things are together like they need to be before you build them. Basically all your electrical and plumbing will pass, then the inspector will tell you to "cover it up".

You won't be able to make it a bedroom without proper egress and (oddly) a closet. The utility room will need to be secured away from that bedroom. Noise, odors, return capability.


What type ceiling are you planning? The wiring will need to be tucked away, either in a raceway or above and through the joisting if you plan on sheetrock. If grid ceiling, then it needs to be "neat" and suspended from the joists.

 

Right, I won't be building the soffit until the plumbing inspection is complete.

I'm not planning on putting a bedroom down there. I'm trying to keep it as open/functional/flexable as possible.

I am tacking on strapping to the joists and putting up sheetrock ceilings .

Before I get too far ahead of myself here, If I lower the height of the pipe coming out of the ejector pit enough to allow for a consistent 1/8 " per ft minimum upward pitch will the setup in the diagram I posted work?

I know I'll have to figure out how to tie it in the end ( where the vent cap is ) Not sure how I'm going to do that yet and still have the upward pitch.

 

You need to get rid of that vent cap as you call it. I would put an ellbow there..

And if you try to do 1/8 pitch from your tie in point from that cap I am thinking you will be below the windows for boxing... No way.....

Sorry you are not thinking like us... we do this all the time...

You have a mess there really...Too many variable you may not be seeing..

It can be done but IMO a professional may be needed.. It would take a bit of $$$ for me to take on that job....



All my opinion though and I am truly trying to help you...


Look at the level of the pipes in relation to the windows.. Dont you think they will be inches lower after your tie in???? How will that be boxed in?

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