cement type / mix around sump basin
#1
03-30-16, 02:53 PM
cement type / mix around sump basin
Is there a recommended cement mix to put around a replacement sump basin?
Taking the old one out so there will be old dry cement and then damage where I break it up and put in the new liner.
I'm assuming I build up to the old cement level with gravel and then just piur the new cement mix on top?
Taking the old one out so there will be old dry cement and then damage where I break it up and put in the new liner.
I'm assuming I build up to the old cement level with gravel and then just piur the new cement mix on top?
#2
03-30-16, 02:59 PM
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Wet side of Washington state.
Posts: 16,321
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Personally, I would use a concrete mix, not cement. Assuming that this is a sump in your basement or crawlspace I would just use a sack or two (or however much is needed) of ready-mix available at any home improvement mega-mart.
#4
03-31-16, 07:43 AM
If the sump already has an intact concrete wall outside the old basin liner then the performance will be better if you don't fill in any empty space between the concrete and the plastic basin liner, provided that dirt is not stirred up out there.
Instead, cut about eight one inch holes in the plastic basin about two inches up from its bottom and two one inch holes about 8 inches from the top of the basin. The row of holes can be closer to the bottom of the basin if the sump itself has a solid or gravel bottom to keep the dirt down.
Instead, cut about eight one inch holes in the plastic basin about two inches up from its bottom and two one inch holes about 8 inches from the top of the basin. The row of holes can be closer to the bottom of the basin if the sump itself has a solid or gravel bottom to keep the dirt down.
Last edited by AllanJ; 03-31-16 at 08:09 AM.
#5
04-05-16, 04:13 AM
There is a water heater near the area that I have to concrete in, so a little bit of concrete may touch about 1 cm of the bottom of the water heater. Will it bond to the metal or will it be ok. I've already removed the heater once and put back so I'm trying to cut corners and not have to drain it again!
#6
04-05-16, 04:58 AM
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Wet side of Washington state.
Posts: 16,321
Received 38 Upvotes
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Concrete does not bond to metal. If you are concerned then wipe a thin film of oil (any kind of oil, even cooking oil) on the metal just before the concrete or wrap it (sloppy is okay) with waxed paper or saran wrap.
#7
04-06-16, 04:09 PM
Is it possible for water to go through the concrete? I've read in various places that concrete is permeable but then on the other hand they make dams out of it, so it can't be that permeable! 
lt.
I noticed on digging the 3ft hole for the sewage basin that overnight, the hole filled up with water to about a level of 1.5 ft. So, it didn't pass where the concrete slab of the house is but I'm worried there is a high water table or maybe there were no French drains installed around the house when it was built.
lt.I noticed on digging the 3ft hole for the sewage basin that overnight, the hole filled up with water to about a level of 1.5 ft. So, it didn't pass where the concrete slab of the house is but I'm worried there is a high water table or maybe there were no French drains installed around the house when it was built.
Last edited by qwertyjjj; 04-06-16 at 05:58 PM.
