Need help identifying well setup


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Old 09-06-16, 11:20 AM
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Need help identifying well setup

Hello Forum,

I just put an offer on a cabin that was inherited and not a lot of info was provided on the water systems. It all worked and visually was clean but I need help identifying exactly what I have here.

Is this a drilled point? Driven point? Looks too big to be hand pounded, which makes me think its better than a point.

I thought it was a jet pump but there's only one input from what looks like a 2" casing?

All of this setup is 10 feet down a stack of concrete casings with the line out to the house buried underground.

If' I'm not mistaken this would be a great well for winter use and not freeze so far below the frost line. (NH)

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Old 09-06-16, 05:40 PM
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Been to the county health dept. to see if there's anything on record?
I used to live in NH so I've seen and dealt with many of those old DIY wells.
Never once seen one that was driven inside a well casing.
With no info I see no way anyone can tell you what type well it is.
Had the water tested and passed as part of the purchase agreement?
How far is the well from the septic?
Imagine how much fun and the added time it's going to take a plumber to try and work down in that well casing instead having built it above ground.
Many times depending on where in NH depending on where you are I've seen the water coming in from the lake with no well.
Never would meet modern codes, but it is what it is.
 
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Old 09-06-16, 06:03 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

If I'm not mistaken this would be a great well for winter use and not freeze so far below the frost line.
Yes... if covered and heated.

Wow... what a chore it will be to work on that system.

Since it's a single line to the pump it's a shallow well system.
The maximum lift in that type of system is +/- 25 feet.
 
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Old 09-06-16, 06:21 PM
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Thanks for the reply. Concensus is a wash well and syphon pump that may likely have a foot valve. I'm eager to learn more about it.
 
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Old 09-06-16, 06:25 PM
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It should definitely have a foot valve. If it didn't it would not hold a prime.

That fitting cap with the square nut on it is where you would prime the pump from.
 
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Old 09-07-16, 05:00 AM
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"Been to the county health dept. to see if there's anything on record?
I used to live in NH so I've seen and dealt with many of those old DIY wells.
Never once seen one that was driven inside a well casing.
With no info I see no way anyone can tell you what type well it is.
Had the water tested and passed as part of the purchase agreement?
How far is the well from the septic?
Imagine how much fun and the added time it's going to take a plumber to try and work down in that well casing instead having built it above ground.
Many times depending on where in NH depending on where you are I've seen the water coming in from the lake with no well.
Never would meet modern codes, but it is what it is."

I did search the NH database and got nothing for my street and town or owner name. I think this is a little better than DIY. Seems like it was done "right" at least for the purpose and the times. I'm guessing its circa 1980s. The casing looks to be at least 2".

The water is being tested. I don't care if it passes because before I saw this I planned on drilling...then I thought why duplicate an already winter-ready system?

The well is probably 75 feet from the leach field? Leach field was put in 2002.

I would work on it myself once I learn about it. I could work down there. Not fun but doable. Not gonna lie - would prefer a drilled well with submersible and pressure tank inside...but after uncovering this well I can't just let it rot. It still works so unless the water is bad it would be throwing away 8k...at least until this fails.
 
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Old 09-07-16, 05:03 AM
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Good point about the foot valve. Guess the good news there is if I don't let it drain back...as long as my ball valve or casing doesn't have an air leak the system should never have to be primed...until something fails.

Though gotta say, been there for over 25 years. Still going. (or about to fail) LOL
 
 

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