Shower is loosing pressure
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Shower is loosing pressure
I live in a rancher and have a well. When I take a shower it has great pressure for about 2-3 minutes then it cuts in half and stays that way. Air in my pressure tank is set correctly. The pump cuts off at 68psi and seems to be coming on just under 50 for some reason but I have th eair at 38 for the 40/60 switch. The shower head is clean also. What could it be?
#2
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First, the air pressure in your tank is not set correctly. Most pressure switches are adjustable and just because your's says 40/60 on the label it sounds like it's set to 50/68. In that case the air in your pressure tank, when the pump is off and all the water has stopped flowing from a faucet, should be about 48 psi.
Unfortunately an incorrectly set pressure tank won't do what you describe. It will cause your pressure to fluctuate noticeably every time the pump cycles on and off but it won't cause your pressure to drop in half and stay there.
Try going to a hose bib (outside spigot) or kitchen and turn on the water and let it run. Do you notice the same drop in pressure after 2-3 minutes?
Unfortunately an incorrectly set pressure tank won't do what you describe. It will cause your pressure to fluctuate noticeably every time the pump cycles on and off but it won't cause your pressure to drop in half and stay there.
Try going to a hose bib (outside spigot) or kitchen and turn on the water and let it run. Do you notice the same drop in pressure after 2-3 minutes?
#3
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It seems there is a problem with your pressure switch to start with, either it is misadjusted or failing, or perhaps the pipe connecting it to your pump tee is partially plugged. So I'd be inclined to fix that first. If the cut in pressure is really 50 PSI then your tank is undercharged with air.
Have someone watch the pressure gauge while you shower and see what is happening.
Another possibility is a malfunctioning pressure balancing shower valve. But I'd figure out the well issue first.
Have someone watch the pressure gauge while you shower and see what is happening.
Another possibility is a malfunctioning pressure balancing shower valve. But I'd figure out the well issue first.
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Actually my switch is new and is a 20/40 switch I believe but I adjusted it to 40/60. I had a similar problem a couple years ago and it was a plugged line going to the switch so perhaps it happened again. Ill look at that first.
#6
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If your switch is a 20/40 you should not adjust it up to the 40/60 range. I'm surprised you even got it that high. Get a 40/60 switch if that is the pressure you want. Your current switch is at or beyond it's operating range which could explain it's erratic performance.
Also, you say you "believe" it is adjusted 40/60. To properly set the air in you pressure tank you need to know the pressures. You can't guess or believe. You need an accurate pressure gauge on your water system and you need an accurate air pressure gauge to check and set the air in your tank.
Also, you say you "believe" it is adjusted 40/60. To properly set the air in you pressure tank you need to know the pressures. You can't guess or believe. You need an accurate pressure gauge on your water system and you need an accurate air pressure gauge to check and set the air in your tank.
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SO I adjusted the pressure switch to kick off at 60. Now when I run water itll run for about 10 seconds and hold 60psi then drops instantly and very quick. So fast I cant even tell when the low side kicks on. Also now the pump has to run the entire time Im in the shower and when I turn the water off the pump instantly shuts off.
#8
You have too much air in the tank.
The bladder is collapsing on itself..
To adjust the air you must drain the system and get to 0 psi. Leave the drain for the tank open. Then add about 35 psi..
Refill and test.. Then test
Now when I run water itll run for about 10 seconds and hold 60psi then drops instantly and very quick. So fast I cant even tell when the low side kicks on.
To adjust the air you must drain the system and get to 0 psi. Leave the drain for the tank open. Then add about 35 psi..
Refill and test.. Then test
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I just tried draining the tank again but it wont go any lower than 30 psi. I banged and moved the tank and it certainly seems empty. I lowered the pressure to 35psi anyway and it drops slower now but its still a little fast and we still loose pressure when we run water until the pump kicks back on.
#13
yes. The bladder collapses on itself and blocks the outlet hence no water. Then to 0 psi real quick and pump kicks on. Then low water pressure till pump builds back up slowly..
Pre-Charged Bladder-Style Tank Troubleshooting
Pre-Charged Bladder-Style Tank Troubleshooting
#15
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Again, you need an accurate pressure gauge on your water system and an accurate air pressure gauge. Without them you are just guessing.
Yes, if the pressure tank air pressure is set incorrectly it can cause the flow of water to briefly come to a complete stop. If the tank is set improperly you can have a reversal of the flow of water in the tank. When set properly the water is always pushing in with the tank pushing back creating the pressure. This has a great cushioning affect so when done properly you can't tell (when in the shower) when the pump turns on or off.
When set wrong the pump is off and water is being supplied from the tank. Then the bladder collapses and the flow of water suddenly stops (very noticeable when showering). Your pump kicks on and the water reverses direction and starts flowing back into the tank.
Yes, if the pressure tank air pressure is set incorrectly it can cause the flow of water to briefly come to a complete stop. If the tank is set improperly you can have a reversal of the flow of water in the tank. When set properly the water is always pushing in with the tank pushing back creating the pressure. This has a great cushioning affect so when done properly you can't tell (when in the shower) when the pump turns on or off.
When set wrong the pump is off and water is being supplied from the tank. Then the bladder collapses and the flow of water suddenly stops (very noticeable when showering). Your pump kicks on and the water reverses direction and starts flowing back into the tank.
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Ok heres an update. So I put the new 40/60 switch and gauge on and noticed there was a TON of blockage. Cleaned it all out and I couldnt get the pump to prime. I finally noticed the nipple attached to the line from the well was almost completely broke off so I went and bought a new one long with a new drain back valve as that was gunked up bad also. So now it wont fill the tank all the way. It puts about 5 gallons but the pressure gauge only shows 20 psi and the tank feels empty but I can drain about 5-7 gallons out of it but the pump wont kick off. I took a shower with the pump running and I had the best pressure Ive ever had but as of right now I have to turn the pump on and off. Any suggestions?
#22
20 psi. I had that issue when trying to prime my pump. It would sit at 20 psi.. It needs to grap per se" ..
Then it should build up more pressure.
I had to turn my pump on and off a few times when it was running at 20 psi. It seems when the motor starts it pulls a bit better.
Then it should build up more pressure.
I had to turn my pump on and off a few times when it was running at 20 psi. It seems when the motor starts it pulls a bit better.
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I turned the switch on and off 4 times and still the same darn thing. I took the line off going to the switch and th epump side had a little blockage so i cleaned that and still the same thing. Its weird.
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The tank is definitly not filling all the way as i can shake it and its not heavy enough to have 35 gallons in it. I just dont understand why the pressure gauge doesnt show higher than 10psi but my home has great pressure. The water will also flow for a while with the pump turned off which tells me theres a decent amount in the holding tank.
#25
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The pressure tank will never completely fill with water. When properly set and full it will be less than half full of water. A 35 gallon tank will contain about 14 gallons of water when completely full.
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Ahhhh ok. It is probally filling up fine than as we can run water in the house pretty long without the pump on before we loose pressure. Even if my gauge is off I can figure out why the switch isn't working. If I wired it incorrectly could this cause it? It was setup different from my other one but the pump works just fine.
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Ok so I took off the large plug right under the suction port and ran a coat hanger in there. It didnt feel like the wire went into a jet just felt like it was all open. Anyway the new gauge I put on was no good. I replaced it and the new gauge shows the pressure is 30-40 psi but now th epressure in the house is a lot lower for some reason.
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The new gauge was junk I tested it with air. The pump is not turning off at all and now I have less pressure. It just hovers around 30-40 psi so something else must be plugged up. I took the line off that goes to the switch and its not plugged.
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#38
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I have only seen a fitting like that on pressure switches intended for air compressors. You connect a line to that fitting for the unloader valve so the air compressor can start more easily. Pressure switches for a water system (well pump) do not have that.