Sump pit and pump in dirt


  #1  
Old 01-25-17, 05:20 AM
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Sump pit and pump in dirt

I have a very old house with a dirt basement and a sump. The pump runs when I manually go push the float up, so I am replacing the pump. But I want to do it right and that's why I am posting here. The current sump is a dirt pit about 22" deep and about 36" in diameter. It has a joint compound bucket in it with holes drilled in the sides for the water to enter. The pump sits in this bucket. It is muddy full and pictures will just show you a mud puddle with pipes sticking out of the top so I didn't bother. I was thinking I should get a liner and just put it into the pit. Then do I fill gently around it with 1" crushed stone? Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks!
 
  #2  
Old 01-25-17, 05:41 AM
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Rather than replacing it, sounds like you need to examine the float on the current pump and identify what's impeding the activation, I'm just talking about the pump . . . . not the other plans you have for the sump.
 
  #3  
Old 01-25-17, 06:10 AM
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Now that you have a large 36 inch diameter pit it is best to leave as much of the space inside not filled in and not filled with rocks or gravel.

Quick conjured up instant-engineered idea of mine: Make a Plexiglas or similar i.e. thin rigid platform that just fits the entire bottom of the pit. Scrape the bottom of the pit a little to level it out so this platform sits flat. Build a brick wall around the perimeter of the pit to keep the sides from caving in. Better to carve away irregularities at the sides and bottom edge a little rather than just take up existing empty space in the pit to stack the bricks in. Just stack the bricks without mortar so water will continue to seep into the pit. Keep the existing joint compound bucket (or make up a new one complete with holes) and set this in the middle of the pit as before to hold the sump pump in place.

You will want a pump with a float assembly that lets you vary the pump start level and pump stop level independently of each other, or a similarly featured separately purchased float switch assembly, the latter might be attached to the joint compound bucket. You will save a lot of time and anxiety not trying to repeatedly repair or reclean the old float assembly, buying new equipment instead.

Ideally a sump pump should start before the 3" or 4" drain pipes dumping into the pit are completely submerged and should keep running until the pit is nearly empty. If the water level rises again quite quickly and stops in the middle of this range, it is okay for the pump to remain stopped and the water to remain at that level for long period of time.
 

Last edited by AllanJ; 01-25-17 at 06:34 AM.
  #4  
Old 01-25-17, 06:45 AM
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I agree with Allen that big is good, but being open along with the dirt floor presents a moisture and possibly a radon problem. The radon you can test but the moisture is there. To be able to cover that sump pit, I like a large sump basin with a lid. I've used and seen the 5 gallon buckets and they don't hold much water and are a tight fit for the pump. A sump pump can empty a 5 gallon bucket in about 3 seconds.

Just a thought,
Bud
 
  #5  
Old 01-26-17, 01:19 PM
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I'd have to agree on that!

The 5 gallon bucket is a little restrictive with the current pump. I'll have to try the new one for fit to know if it will be a problem- there is so much slop in the float mechanism setup on the current pump, and held together with zip ties, and the new one looks much tighter- I might have to wait a few months to redo the whole pit- like when it isn't constantly filling with water!
 
 

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