Size of discharge pipe for sump pump
#1
01-15-18, 11:18 AM
Size of discharge pipe for sump pump
I will be redoing the PVC discharge riser pipe from my residential sump pump to the outside wall. The existing pipe is 1 1/4" PVC, including the portion through the brick exterior. Normally I would want to use 1 1/2" diameter pipe to lessen the wear on the pump, but I don't know if it is worth the time and effort to open up the masonry/brick hole on the exterior for a slightly larger discharge pipe.
I was simply going to replace with a 1 1/2" riser up to the basement ceiling, and put a reducer near the elbow and not deal with opening up the wall. The reason I'm even working on this is because I'm adding a battery backup pump and will be reconfiguring the discharge pipe anyway.
Is there any practical reason why I should upsize the horizontal pipe segment to 1-1/2" through the exterior wall given that it is brick and grouted already? Thanks.
I was simply going to replace with a 1 1/2" riser up to the basement ceiling, and put a reducer near the elbow and not deal with opening up the wall. The reason I'm even working on this is because I'm adding a battery backup pump and will be reconfiguring the discharge pipe anyway.
Is there any practical reason why I should upsize the horizontal pipe segment to 1-1/2" through the exterior wall given that it is brick and grouted already? Thanks.
#2
01-15-18, 01:42 PM
Group Moderator
Does the pit pump out quickly ?
Do you get a lot of water in the pit ?
If your pump runs often..... it may be beneficial to upgrade to the 1-1/2".
Do you get a lot of water in the pit ?
If your pump runs often..... it may be beneficial to upgrade to the 1-1/2".
#3
01-16-18, 07:32 PM
PJmax, you can probably tell that I would rather not mess with a larger hole through the brick for an extra 1/4" if it isn't detrimental. I agree it would be beneficial, but how much and is it a common practice for plumbers to increase to 1-1/2" when they replace pumps? I guess, is there an apparent early failure rate for pumps using 1-1/4" as compared to the 1-1/2" pipes? If it's just simply insufficient for modern pumps to use the smaller 1-1/4" discharges, then I'll just make it right. Part of my hesitation is that I have never put a utility hole through brick, therefore I'm simply reluctant. ....probably not that difficult to enlarge and patch.
Your question about my pump operation:
My particular submersible pump runs frequent enough that I am going to install a small emergency battery backup pump. I may even get a a wifi water sensor for added security. My pit pumps out very quick (maybe 5 to 10 seconds). It only runs in spring (dry in summer and winter), but the frequency in spring is quite high. I recorded the frequency and depth of pumping a couple times, and I think the worse time in spring was a frequency of once per minute (maybe 50 sec). The submersible pump has an operating range in the pit of 4.5 inches. I wish this was a greater range, but I don't see a way to increase the range on my pump (Coleman 1/3 hp).
My house was built in 1951 and there is no drain tile leading to the pit. The corrugated plastic wall of the pit has several punctures in the side wall that allow water to drain from the stone and into the pit. I am going to raise the pump about 3.0" higher so it operates with the highest level 12" below the floor (operating between 12" to 16.5" below the floor surface). I think right now it is simply making a cone of depression of the groundwater under my home, therefore raising the pump and allowing the water level to simply be a few inches higher hopefully will not be a problem. The only thing I worry about is that the lack of drain tile running around the foundation perimeter may mean there is a substantial differential in the water level at the pit versus the water level at a further point away. Hopefully this is not the case.
If anyone has any recommendations as to how they would set the operating level of the pump, please let me know. I'd like to hear what others think. I'm still inviting any other input as to whether the 1-1/2" pipe upgrade should be done as well. Thanks!
Your question about my pump operation:
My particular submersible pump runs frequent enough that I am going to install a small emergency battery backup pump. I may even get a a wifi water sensor for added security. My pit pumps out very quick (maybe 5 to 10 seconds). It only runs in spring (dry in summer and winter), but the frequency in spring is quite high. I recorded the frequency and depth of pumping a couple times, and I think the worse time in spring was a frequency of once per minute (maybe 50 sec). The submersible pump has an operating range in the pit of 4.5 inches. I wish this was a greater range, but I don't see a way to increase the range on my pump (Coleman 1/3 hp).
My house was built in 1951 and there is no drain tile leading to the pit. The corrugated plastic wall of the pit has several punctures in the side wall that allow water to drain from the stone and into the pit. I am going to raise the pump about 3.0" higher so it operates with the highest level 12" below the floor (operating between 12" to 16.5" below the floor surface). I think right now it is simply making a cone of depression of the groundwater under my home, therefore raising the pump and allowing the water level to simply be a few inches higher hopefully will not be a problem. The only thing I worry about is that the lack of drain tile running around the foundation perimeter may mean there is a substantial differential in the water level at the pit versus the water level at a further point away. Hopefully this is not the case.
If anyone has any recommendations as to how they would set the operating level of the pump, please let me know. I'd like to hear what others think. I'm still inviting any other input as to whether the 1-1/2" pipe upgrade should be done as well. Thanks!
#4
01-16-18, 08:02 PM
Group Moderator
If the 1-1/4" handles the application....leave it.
It's not hard to enlarge that hole. Looks like it's larger and was filled with cement.
That type of float is not adjustable. You can tie that in the on position and use one of those floating ball type switches. They use a piggyback plug system.
Your manual....
Coleman/Install_Instruct/3350ASEP1114998896WEB.pdf
It's not hard to enlarge that hole. Looks like it's larger and was filled with cement.
That type of float is not adjustable. You can tie that in the on position and use one of those floating ball type switches. They use a piggyback plug system.
Your manual....
Coleman/Install_Instruct/3350ASEP1114998896WEB.pdf
#5
01-17-18, 07:17 AM
Yes, my pump is a Coleman model 33-AEP; thanks for the manual link. Install calls for 1-1/2" discharge pipe. I think for now I will install new 1-1/2" PVC through the elbow at the ceiling and put the reducer after that point to allow possible upsizing in the future through the exterior wall.
I'm interested in piggybacking with a different type of switch. Is piggybacking commonly done and reliable (using another switch)? I'll have to look into this because I miss the flexibility I use to have with an old pedestal pump. In my case I don't know if a floating ball would have room to freely float since I'm going to add a small emergency backup pump in the same pit, but maybe some other type of small float or sensor would work.
My preference would be to raise the "on" high water level a few inches and let it pump down to same level (pump 8" of water rather than 4.5"). The perforations in the pit wall do not convey water fast enough into the pit during a pump cycle, therefore the pump essentially only empties the volume in the pit alone. Having a greater operating range for the pump (or a bigger pit) I think would reduce the pumping frequency.
I'm interested in piggybacking with a different type of switch. Is piggybacking commonly done and reliable (using another switch)? I'll have to look into this because I miss the flexibility I use to have with an old pedestal pump. In my case I don't know if a floating ball would have room to freely float since I'm going to add a small emergency backup pump in the same pit, but maybe some other type of small float or sensor would work.
My preference would be to raise the "on" high water level a few inches and let it pump down to same level (pump 8" of water rather than 4.5"). The perforations in the pit wall do not convey water fast enough into the pit during a pump cycle, therefore the pump essentially only empties the volume in the pit alone. Having a greater operating range for the pump (or a bigger pit) I think would reduce the pumping frequency.
