Securing a pedestal sump pump
#1
05-19-18, 12:40 PM
Securing a pedestal sump pump
I had to replace a pedestal pump today. The previous owner had two boards wedged in the space and a bungee across the top of the pump. I upgraded from a 1/3hp to a 1/2 and am not going back to the useless securing technique. However, as seen in the pic my choices are kind of non-existent and would love some suggestions and to how to keep this pump from accidentally tipping over.
Cheers
Cheers
Last edited by PJmax; 05-19-18 at 01:16 PM. Reason: added pic from link
#2
05-19-18, 02:14 PM
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
Posts: 3,099
Received 91 Upvotes
on
84 Posts
Any way you can get a split ring around it somewhere? If so you can use a split ring, a wall plate, and a rod to secure it. You can get the 3/8 rod in Home Depot and easily cut it to length with a hacksaw.
I really don’t see a place to grab the pump but I was thinking there might be a place that isn’t visible from your pic.
I really don’t see a place to grab the pump but I was thinking there might be a place that isn’t visible from your pic.
#3
05-19-18, 03:14 PM
Member
I've never seen a pedestal or upright pump tip over if properly placed in the pit on a solid base. The weight of the impeller /pump housing should be plenty heavy enough to keep it in place. Your other choice is use a submersible.
#4
05-19-18, 05:30 PM
That split ring is a great idea. There may be just enough room to attach it to a stud on the door jamb everything else is cinder block, but I suppose I could epoxy it. As I watch this thing, it's not so much it tipping over but when it kicks on, the torque of the motor moves the pump ccw about a 1/4 inch and the pit being as tight as it is I can see the float pushing up against the wall and getting stuck.
Thanks again
Thanks again
#6
05-20-18, 05:47 AM
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
Posts: 3,099
Received 91 Upvotes
on
84 Posts
2many-
If it would work out otherwise you can in fact connect the wall plate to cinder block. I used Tapcon concrete screws to do it in my basement. There are other methods that are pretty easy also.
If it would work out otherwise you can in fact connect the wall plate to cinder block. I used Tapcon concrete screws to do it in my basement. There are other methods that are pretty easy also.
#7
05-27-18, 04:59 PM
Solved - but new problem
I was able to secure it to the wall using zoesdad's suggestion and some JB Weld to secure the plate to the cinder block. Everything was working well (see what I did there) until today. Heavy rain, pump running, then pump running and not pumping. If I reach down into the pit I can feel the water being pulled into the pump. Then if I lift the pump out of the water and put it back in, it will work normally. I'd say it was air locked, but the vent holes on the pump shaft are way above the pit. Last thing I want to do is stay up all night babysitting this effer.
Cheers
Cheers
#8
05-27-18, 05:14 PM
So I found the problem. I pulled the pump and took the check valve off and found the disk inside floating free. So I think then the pump runs it's pushing the disk up and blocking the discharge and when I lift the pump and break suction, the disk falls out of the way and pumping resumes. Of course it's 8 p.m. here and anywhere I can get one of these is closed till tomorrow. Making coffee now.
#10
05-27-18, 09:06 PM
I wouldn't if it didn't have an 8' vertical lift to a 90, then another 10' to the discharge. The 8' alone will drop about 1/3 of the pits volume back into it.
