Pressure Tank

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  #1  
Old 12-29-18, 07:55 PM
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Pressure Tank

My house is on a well with a pressure tank and water softener. My question can I tap into the waterline before my pressure tank and hook up a run a new line to my outside faucet (my current outside faucet is connected to the water softener) or does it have to be hooked up after the pressure tank. the line to the tank is 1inch. I would like to hook up before the tank for my faucet but not sure how that will effect the house ( laundry, bath, and ect)
 
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Old 12-29-18, 08:00 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

As long as the line you want to connect to is controlled by the pressure switch... you should be fine.
Can you take and post a few pictures of your setup ? How-to-insert-pictures
 
  #3  
Old 12-30-18, 05:18 AM
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It's not the best but you can tie into the water line before the pressure tank. If you think of how water will move through the system you'll see that tying in before the pressure tank can cause a situation where water is flowing backwards. When the pump is off and the pressure tank is full and you open your new faucet water will flow "upstream" from the pressure tank to the faucet. When the pressure drops enough the pump will turn on and it's water will slam into the other water going in the opposite direction. You might get a brief pressure spike (feel the water surge) or hear pipes in your home make a thunk sound. It works and it doesn't really hurt anything, it's just not the best.
 
  #4  
Old 12-30-18, 09:53 AM
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Thank you for your help. this is my first house with a well and pressure tank and I didn't want to do something that would end up not working.
Thanks Mark
 
  #5  
Old 01-02-19, 09:07 AM
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At my cottage I have my outside tap connected before the pressure tank and house filter. This works great because in the spring when I open it up I can shut off my house and pressure tank, open the outside tap, turn on the pump and blow out all the cruddy water that stayed in the poly pipe from the river over the winter. Never liked black water in my pressure tank or hot water tank. Once the water turns clear I open up the house and pressure tank valve, close the outside tap and everything else fills up.

I have never noticed any problem when I used the outside tap when the pump would kick on, so I see no problem with it and quite a few advantages.
 
  #6  
Old 01-12-19, 08:59 AM
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Hope you always open the outside tap first thing, before turning the pump on.

This way the maximum amount of cruddy water is sent out that tap.

For those who have a system with the first faucet or tap down in the basement instead of outside, it is better to collect the first water from the pump down there in a bucket.
 
  #7  
Old 01-12-19, 10:10 AM
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Of course. If I didn't open that tap the pump would simply short cycle. It wouldn't take long to identify that mistake. It's sole procedure is to get rid of the dark stagnant water that sat all winter and of course, opening the outside tap is the first step.
 
  #8  
Old 01-12-19, 11:07 AM
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Does your pressure tank have a check valve on the inlet?
 
  #9  
Old 01-12-19, 03:09 PM
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The only purpose of a check valve between the pump and the pressure tank is to prevent the already pumped water from going back down to the pump after the pump has turned off for that cycle.

The check valve would be in the main line from the pump and not in the neck of the pressure tank.
 
  #10  
Old 01-13-19, 09:05 AM
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If qwerty's question was to me, I am using a jet pump with a pressure switch on the pump. If I put a check valve between the pressure tank and the pump it would also be between the pressure tank and the pressure switch. That would be a big problem. I would think you would get the pump short cycling since when the pump cycles off it would lose the pressure from the pressure tank.

That is my guess anyway.
 
  #11  
Old 01-13-19, 09:15 AM
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A pressure switch controlling the pump is needed on the outlet side of a check valve.
 
  #12  
Old 01-13-19, 01:29 PM
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That was my point. If I understood you're tapping into the line before the pressure tank and switch. So, was just saying don't do that if there's a check valve since it won't work.
 
  #13  
Old 01-13-19, 06:31 PM
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But there must not be a check valve that slams shut cutting off water flow out of a faucet and there must not be a check valve that slams shut preventing the pump from supplying water past it. So a check valve just upstream of the pressure tank has to be moved if necessary to be upstream of any faucet you are going to tie in upstream of the pressure tank.
 
  #14  
Old 01-14-19, 08:44 AM
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In my case the pump's output goes to a T. One part of the T goes to my outside tap and the other goes up to the pressure tank and house. Before the house is a filter. I just don't want the water I use for outside applications passing through my filter. It just uses up the filter for no benefit. I also have a valve that could close the water going to the pressure tank and house.

Since my set up was like this I could see that by shutting off that valve to the pressure tank and house and opening up the tap to outside, I could blow out the crud in the water line, left over the winter, BEFORE I fill up the pressure tank and hot water tank, etc.

Here is my set up. The pipe going up goes to my pressure tank and house and the pipe to the left, going through the wall, is going outside. All I do is open up both the main shut off valve for outside and the outside valve and close the valve going up to the house. When my wife says she sees clear water from outside I open up the house valve and close the outside main (there is a 1/4 turn valve there that is hard to see in the picture) and presto, fresh clean water for the house. I am drawing my water from a river.
 
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