Well Pressure Tank Bladder Damaged & D-Switch not operating


Old 06-16-19, 03:42 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: USA
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Well Pressure Tank Bladder Damaged & D-Switch not operating

There is no house on the property but it has a well with a pressure tank & it is currently being powered by a 240v generator. The well inspector came out to test/shock the well & reported that the pressure tank was bad because "it won't hold pressure". The cable for the generator is wired to the D-Switch (hired an electrician).

After conducting tests, the bladder is damaged. But it does hold pressure without leaks. Problem is, the D-Switch does not cut off. I ran it up to 65 psi (with 28 psi headspace air pre-charge) before I manually shut off the pump as I was expecting it to shut off ~50 psi.

Is there possibly something wrong with the way the electrician wired up the D-Switch since the well inspector said the D-switch was operational prior? Or does it simply need to be adjusted? I haven't been out there myself since I live overseas right now so I had a friend follow some steps I researched online.

Yes, I'm planning to temporarily use the tank with the damaged bladder for about 6 months until I can be present to replace it myself. (Parents moved onto property with a trailer, they will empty & recharge the headspace every month). The water will be used for dishes/showers/gardening & the well was shocked about a month ago. Is this safe?

Thank you in advance!

Well Pressure Tank: 85 gal Pro-Source (PS85) Steel Tank w/bladder (Made in 2006, installed in 2013)
D-Switch: (Well inspector said it's set for 30/50)
Well Pump: 1-1/2 hp 240v CenterPro - 6" well head, 4" liner, 1-1/4" Drop Pipe (Installed in 2012)
Static Level: 33ft
Flow: 33.7gpm @ open discharge
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Old 06-16-19, 11:24 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

It is possible but extremely unlikely that the electrician wired the pressure switch incorrectly.
There are only four well labeled terminals.

It sounds to me like the small pipe that connects the pressure switch to the system is plugged.
It is a fairly common problem. Rust builds up inside the pipe and blocks it off. The switch never
sees the system pressure.
Old 06-17-19, 04:51 AM
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Normally a clogged pipe nipple will show itself on the low pressure side. As you use water the clogged pipe prevents the pressure switch from seeing the dropping pressure. On the high pressure side there is usually enough pressure to force through a clog and turn the switch off unless it's a really good clog.

You said "Is there possibly something wrong with the way the electrician wired up the D-Switch...". Was the pressure tank replaced? Was the pressure switch removed or replaced?

If the switch were wired incorrectly causing the pump to run continuously there is no way the manual lever on the pressure switch could work. Is the switch working on the low pressure side? Does it turn on the pump when the pressure drops?

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