What valve to put in here


Old 09-25-20, 08:49 AM
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What valve to put in here

This is the pipe from the basement pressure tank to the outdoor vacuum breaker and then sprinkler manifold piping. The valve is plastic, glued-in, and pipe is 1 1/4". The valve has never really closed completely; the handle has always stopped a little short of 90". But it has stopped water from going from the tank to the vacuum breaker and sprinkler pipes. So it has worked. Until now. Apparently it is not closing enough because water is getting past.

Question is what to do to put in a new valve. What kind of valve to install in this plastic pipe location. I don't really want another of these plastic butterfly or ball valves because it has just never closed completely and has felt flimsy and unreliable and has now failed. Would prefer a gate or other kind of valve that will glue into place and be reliable and long lasting. If it has to be another plastic ball valve, is there a brand that is superior?

I think the earlier valve was brass with female threaded connections, but attaching this to plastic pipe was sloppy and leaked a little. Would be nice to glue in a valve, but not like the one that is in there.


Last edited by GaryMN; 09-25-20 at 09:04 AM.
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Old 09-25-20, 09:16 AM
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Replace it with a brass ball valve.
It can be done with what called repair couplings, the difference is a repair coupling does not have a hub in the middle.
I'd also trash that old rubber hose and replace it with a SS braided hose before it fails.
Old 09-25-20, 11:12 AM
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hi Gary-

My house has copper but I have a small section of CPVC from basement wall to my AN Filter, and I wanted brass ball valves with my CPVC. Mainly because I have heard so many plumbers and experts complain that those plastic valves wonít close etc. Ė exactly like your complaint.

I donít know about the solution Joe proposed in post #2, but I did mine with CPVC-to-Metal adapters. The adapters arenít cheap. My CPVC pipe was 1Ē and I found that the adapters you find at HD, Lowes etc. donít go up to 1 inch or greater. I bought mine at the site referenced below Ė but they are not cheap.

Those adapters get you from CPVC to metal and you would need one on each side of your brass ball valve. In other words, you just do the glue job (itís actually solvent but we all say glue- lol) on one side of the adapter and thread the other end into the ball valve. (In my case I really used the female version of the adapter Ė i.e., Glue Type on one end-Female Pipe threads on the other end, and then I used a short pipe nipple from the female adapter threads into the female brass ball valve).

You could instead use a plastic CPVC adapter with male CPVC threads (plastic of course) on one end and screw that right into a brass ball valve, but I think that connection is more prone to leaking, and it sounds like that is what you had before and it was in fact leaking. I heard that the metal on metal threads works better and wonít leak. So thatís why I used CPVC to metal adapters (Iíve had no leaks).

One thing though, in your case there can be a few difficulties which you are probably already aware of. If you could cut out the old valve and some surrounding pipe and could spread the pipes apart vertically somewhat, then you could just insert the adapters and ball valve and glue the assembly (i.e., adapter-ball valve Ėadapter assembly) right in place. But I would bet you canít spread those pipes vertically enough. I think you would need an 1 1/4 spread to be able to slip the cut pipe into the adapter and glue.

I canít see everything so maybe you could actually cut the CPVC back farther somewhere and spreading isnít a problem. CPVC isnít that expensive as you know.

As you suggest, you have to worry about leaks. I took a gamble and put my section together without a union, so if there was a leak where I connected the male-female threads, to bad for me, since the CPVC is glued in. I would have to cut out the section and try again.

So I used pipe dope on top of Teflon tape (plumbers are OK with dope on the tape) and tightened the connections really well, and then glued the assembly in. It didnít leak, butÖif it did I would have had to cut it out and try again, because I didnít have a union.

Iíve seen CPVC repair couplings that can help in these cases where you can cut some extra pipe out and the repair coupling makes up for it, but I havenít seen them greater than 1 inch.

Anyway, maybe this helps a little.


(told you they were expensive Ė lol, and I used 4)

Old 09-26-20, 05:04 PM
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Replaced with brass

Thanks for the useful advice.

I got this done, replacing it with a brass ball valve that was available locally, . Required replacing several of the fittings along with the valve and some small sections of pipe.

Here are photos of the valve that I removed. There are lots of complaints on the internet about these kinds not closing, which was the problem with this one. Size was 1 1/4." Never again.


Last edited by GaryMN; 09-26-20 at 05:25 PM.
Old 09-27-20, 03:33 AM
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Why are you using such large size piping and valve? In your first photo it looks like that line is reduced to about 3/4". If you use 3/4" pipe instead of 1 1/4" the valve will be much easier to open and close and a 3/4" valve is much less expensive.
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