Well pump issue, please help

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  #1  
Old 11-22-20, 08:37 PM
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Well pump issue, please help

recently installed a new pump and pressure tank for a neighbor after a leak in a pvc coupler burned out a 30 year old Sta-rite 1hp shallow well pump

suction is 1 1/4" with 1" discharge

new pump is a Zoeller 1hp, wired 110v using a square D 40/60 switch.

pressure tank is a water worker 20 gal charged to 38psi

issue i am having is when i turn the power on the well will instantly charge up to 60 psi as it should but as the system drains the flow rate will quickly drop to a trickle as the pressure tank drains, when the pump turns on the pressure gauge will drop to zero and remain there then when the pump shuts off it will jump to ~ 38 psi and generate no water pressure to the house feed line.

neighbor did not want to use the included control body due to the positioning of the original lines and not wanting to cut out and redo the entire pvc system so the pressure gauge and pressure switch or mounted to the 1/4 fip holes in the pump body

anybody have any ideas about whats going on here?
 
  #2  
Old 11-22-20, 08:46 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

I'm not picturing your setup.

The pressure rising immediately to 60psi when the pump comes on tells us that either the pressure tank doesn't have air in it or there is a blockage in the system. Perhaps a stuck check valve.

Pictures would be extremely helpful..... How-to-insert-pictures.
 
  #3  
Old 11-22-20, 08:57 PM
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Check valve may be installed backwards.

RR
 
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Old 11-23-20, 07:08 AM
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I can do better than pictures, im uploading a video to youtube now, will link it here

Video of system

 

Last edited by PJmax; 11-23-20 at 07:50 PM. Reason: corrected link/added pics from link
  #5  
Old 11-23-20, 08:08 AM
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Your video is marked "Video unavailable Private"


RR
 
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Old 11-23-20, 08:58 AM
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Should be viewable now, try again.
 
  #7  
Old 11-23-20, 09:54 AM
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Pressure gauge is on the suction line and is not giving a true reading. When pump starts it immediately goes negative.
Pressure switch is on pump housing and not getting a true reading of system pressure.
Move both to a location near the pressure tank. Probably need to cut line and install a tee in the straight pipe that connects to tank to accomplish.
Both switch and gauge can be on same fitting with the use of a tee.
Plug the openings you are currently using.

Should make the system perform as designed.

Good luck!

RR
 
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Old 11-23-20, 05:42 PM
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Moved the guage and switch off the motor and closer to the pressure tank, guage now displays properly.

System still has issues, pump will pressurize to~40 and shut off. If i run water thu the system it has great pressure but it will only run for about 2 seconds before shutting down.

The motor body is quite hot to the touch, i think it may be a thermal protection issue.

https://youtu.be/VfS3xTWcKU8
 
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Old 11-23-20, 06:13 PM
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From the motor sound of the video, I think you have a centrifugal start switch issue.
The motor start windings are not kicking out when it gets to speed and therefore tripping the thermal overload.
Inspect the centrifugal switch and maybe free it with some penetrating oil such as WD40.

Are all valves going from pump to tank open?

RR
 
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Old 11-23-20, 10:16 PM
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Forgot to comment.

That is a brand new pump. Should not need any oiling. Is it wired for the right voltage ?

I put an arrow pointing towards the union. It's extremely important that every fitting be tightly sealed on the suction side of the pump. Those unions are notorious for leaking. You wouldn't know it's leaking but your pump could have problems priming.

In that same picture..... what is that black item on the input side of the pump ?
Is that some type of check valve ?
Is it installed in the right direction ?
 
  #11  
Old 11-24-20, 02:33 AM
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The black portion on the suction side is the beak containing the venturi since its a convertable jet pump set to shallow well mode, well pipe is 30 feet in a 40 foot casing, waterline on the downpipe is at approx 10 feet.

Ive checked the wiring and it is correct for 110v operation

All fittings and connections are tight with no leaks.
 
  #12  
Old 11-24-20, 09:26 AM
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Two things to double-check :

(1) It looks like you are supposed to have a check valve in your installation. I can’t see one – but maybe it is in fact there. Looks like they want a check valve AND a foot valve.

(2) You are exceeding the 25 feet for a shallow well application. Don’t know what hit that would have on performance though.

whoops!! My bad. Seems like they DO NOT require a check valve for cased wells. Only a foot valve. So never mind!
 

Last edited by zoesdad; 11-24-20 at 10:03 AM.
  #13  
Old 11-25-20, 09:20 AM
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waterline on the downpipe is at approx 10 feet.
Well I was wrong 2 out of 2 - so my last post is ALL wrong - please ignore.
 
 

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