Sump pump for a basement washing machine

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  #1  
Old 11-23-20, 01:44 PM
H
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Cool Sump pump for a basement washing machine

Hi, I recently installed a Zoeller105 sump pump to be used in a basement laundry area. I have it connected directly to the washing machine discharge line, (the typical standpipe and ptrap. I was told this was ok to do.) The problem I'm having is that water overflows thru the vent pipe sometimes, which is 17 inches long. Nothing else is connected to the pump.
The questions I have are:
1. What is the correct length for the vent pipe.
2. Should the ball valve be open all the way.
3. Is my setup correct or do I need to install and laundry sink and connect the pump to the sink?
Thank you for your help,



Henry
 
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Old 11-23-20, 03:21 PM
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https://www.howtolookatahouse.com/Bl...utlet-box.html
I see no good reason why that ball valve is even there.
 
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Old 11-23-20, 04:25 PM
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A: Your sump is too small. When your washing machine empties it is putting out more water, faster than your pump can handle. Because of the float switch setup the pump won't even turn on until the sump is 3/4 full which leaves you little room before water is overflowing. I'd get a sump more in the 30 gallon range. Hopefully that will give you the tidal capacity to avoid messes.

B: What is on top of your vent? It really should be piped and vented outside. Because of your washing machine and the pump you need to allow a good deal of air to enter and leave which rules out using an AAV.

C: The ball valve should always be completely open whenever the sump pump might turn on. Just leave it fully open.
 
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Old 11-23-20, 04:57 PM
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You MAY need the clothes washer to discharge into a full sized laundry sink, OR the sanitary sewer.

You could have a code problem over discharge into a storm drain.
 
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Old 11-23-20, 10:21 PM
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I usually install that pump system with a laundry sink. The sink will handle the excessive water.

We don't know where this is discharging to but it most likely needs the pump for the lift.
 
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Old 11-24-20, 11:20 AM
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Thank you everyone for all your suggestions. The discharge pipe is connected to the house main waste line. So if understand correctly, if I get a laundry sink and connect the pump to a laundry sink that should solve my problem? The Zoeller105 sump pump should be powerful enough to do the job, right? I'll also remove the AAV and pipe it outside.
I'm still confused by the ball valve. In some articles that I read and saw they mention that the ball valve needs to be adjusted so that the pump is not turning on and off constantly because it leads to short pump life. Thank you
 
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Old 11-24-20, 12:14 PM
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I have never heard of a ball valve being used in such a manner. In a very small sump like yours there isn't much you can do to properly limit the pumps cycling. Partially closing the ball valve does limit cycling simply because the pump can't get rid of the water faster. That would cause the pump to run longer. But, if water enters the sump faster than it is being pumped out you get an overflow where with unrestricted output the pump may be able to pump it out faster than it comes in.
 
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Old 11-24-20, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by hchino
I'm still confused by the ball valve. In some articles that I read and saw they mention that the ball valve needs to be adjusted so that the pump is not turning on and off constantly
I think it's the wrong kind of valve. A "BALL VALVE" Is a valve that restricts flow both ways. So at 50% closed,k it limits flow to 50% in OR out.

In contrast, for a sump pump, or a clothes washer, you generally want a "FLAP VALVE," a "ONE WAY VALVE" that allows the water to leave at 99% effectiveness, then blocks 100% of the water from draining back into the clothes washer. The NET effect is that the clothes washer pumps out 100% of the water.
You have 95-99% of the water pushed into the drain, while 1-5% of the water is then trapped in the vertical stand pip, and it pushed out the NEXT time that a load of laundry is done.
 
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Old 11-24-20, 03:35 PM
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He (hchino) has a one way flapper valve installed below the ball valve.
 
 

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