Well Pump Wiring


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Old 12-25-20, 01:31 AM
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Well Pump Wiring

Hello all, I'm installing an aerator due to iron/sulphur in water. I currently have a 1hp vertical jet pump on a 2" casing. I have 10/2 UF wiring on a 30amp breaker running directly to the vertical pump. Once I install the aerator, I'll obviously will need a second pump and pressure tank for the home. My question is wiring. I have a 1/2hp, 115V Flotec cast iron, shallow well pump that I can use. Is there a way to safely tap the 10/2 to run the 115V? Since there is no neutral, not sure if it's possible.

In the alternative, if I were to purchase a 220V booster pump, what would you recommend to tie both pumps to the wiring? I currently have electrical conduit that comes out of the ground and it dies in to liquid-tite flexible conduit that dies in to the pump pressure switch. My thought was to get a three outlet weather proof box and mount it on the conduit. Make up my connections in the box and run liquid-tite flexible conduit out the top to the vertical pump (the pump is higher than the conduit) and then run liquid-tite out of the side to the other pump. What has me questioning this approach is I've seen a couple booster pumps that have a thick, flexible, round cord like you would see on some appliances.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
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Old 12-25-20, 04:13 AM
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There is no safe way to tap 120v off of 240v. A neutral is required.

In order to connect your jet pump and booster pump to a 30A circuit you need to put in a 4 space/two circuit sub panel so that each pump had its own protection.

You also need to verify that both pumps running together wont trip a 30A breaker.
 
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Old 12-25-20, 08:25 AM
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Thanks for the reply PJmax! I've never heard of a subpanel without a neutral? If I get a 220v pump for the booster, both pumps will pull approximately 8 amps each. If I continue with the 115v pump for the booster, it will pull approximately 16 amps and the vertical will pull 8 amps.Using a subpanel, what would you recommend for breakers? Also, this setup will be in the weather, what would you recommend for connections from the subpanel to the pressure switches.
 
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Old 12-25-20, 09:12 AM
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Sub panels typically come with two hot bus bars and insulated neutral bar. A ground bar is added.
In your case you would bond the "neutral" bar using the supplied bonding screw making it a ground bar.

If it draws 8A at 240v. You could use a 2P15A breaker for each. You could go as high as 20A.
You want a panel you can put in two 2pole 240v breakers.

weathertite sub panel
weathertite sub panel

You can flex tubing..... seal tite..... for outdoor connections.
Most pressure switches are not rated for outdoor use.
 
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Old 12-26-20, 03:47 AM
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Thanks again PJmax. I'm locking up on the subpanel. Would I need a "main" breaker (30 amp) in the subpanel or wire the 10/2 as the main feed and just the two 15amp, double pole breakers for the pumps?
 
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Old 12-26-20, 09:40 AM
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Incoming wire is the main feed to the two 2P15A breakers.
No main breaker needed.
 
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Old 12-31-20, 06:16 PM
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Wanted to update this post, I checked with a local electrician and he agreed a subpanel and breakers are required to meet code. Therefore, I purchased a 4 space/8 circuit, 125 amp box and two, 15 amp double pole breakers. Used two whips from Lowes for wiring. I think it worked out pretty well. Thanks for your help PJMax!
 
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Old 12-31-20, 06:22 PM
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I'm not sure why my image isn't displaying? It's loading in the reply but it doesn't appear to be displaying once I post the reply.
 
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Old 12-31-20, 08:27 PM
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It may be too large. Anything over 2.5-3 mb's is trouble.

 
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Old 12-31-20, 08:39 PM
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Old 12-31-20, 09:04 PM
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Nice job ! Very neat. That should take care of you for many years.
 
 

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