I installed one of these systems, got a few bugs worked out and it was ticking along fantastically for a few weeks. Last night it started to run while the sink was draining(as it should) however it didn’t stop pumping, or rather didn’t seem to actually pump properly. It did manage to pump waste water some distance up the rise and past the back flow valve, but not high enough to actually empty the bucket or sink.
I took the whole think apart today, no blockages, no build up of debris, no impeller issue etc.
I put it all back together and it worked.
I see two possible differences though I could likely be missing something. Last night the water was warm, likely in the 100-110F range. I saw on the pump that for some odd reason it’s range is only up to 70F. Seems low for a laundry pump, but ok. The pump ran and moved water but just didn’t seem to have the pressure to make the head it needed.
the other thing was I sucked all the water out of the system and it was straight clean water. Last night it was very soapy and frothy. I’m wondering if the excessively soapy water led to cavitation and air bubble build up around the impeller causing it to lose its ability to build / overcome head pressure. This also would seem problematic for a system that is meant to be used in the laundry.sept tub.
any thoughts on cause and possible solutions appreciated
this sketch is an approximation of the lay out in plan and cross section. The Chester valve has been removed so it just vents to the room for the moment. There is a check valve on the pump on the discharge line inside the bucket and came factory that way.
My pump only turns on when float 3 is tripped. Does this mean float 2 is defective and that float 3 not only is an alarm but will also turn on the pump? Also if I replace the three floats are they all the same type? I have wide angle floats right now but I believe they take up to much room and would like to put on simple float/switches. Any thoughts?
Hi All,
We are on well water where we live in rural Connecticut and looks like the pressure tank (bladder type) has gone bad. I recently noticed it short cycling so yesterday I tested it. I turned off the well pump and drained all the water and checked the air pressure and it literally read zero. I attempted to add air using a compressor but it would not hold any pressure at all. I then closed the drain valve and turned the pump back on and it started up and then clicked off when it got to 50 PSI as per usual. I then depressed the valve pin which sprayed out some dirty water so seems based on everything I have read here that the bladder is damaged/broken.
The existing broken tank is from 1997 so it has done pretty well I guess. it is a Sta-Rite Con-Aire CA42 and I believe it is 20 gallons. The well is 95 feet deep and the pump was installed in 1996 and is a Goulds 7GS05422C, 7GPM, 1/2HP...
[url=https://www.aquascience.net/goulds-7gs05422c-7gpm-1-2hp-230v-2-wire-4-stainless-steel-submersible-well-pump]Goulds 7GS05422C, 7GPM, 1/2HP, 230V[/url]
So I am wondering how to choose a replacement pressure tank. I checked Home Depot and they have Water Worker brand and have 20, 44, 86 and 119 gallon options ranging from $189 - $799. I also checked Lowes and they have A.O. Smith brand and have 20, 36, 52 and 86 gallon options ranging from $204 - $499.
Are these brands decent or should I be looking for a specific brand or brands for better quality/longer life? I also read that I can get a larger tank which will make the pump cycle less and potentially last longer. Is there any downside to a larger tank?
I attached pics of the well line and the tank etc. Thanks for any advice.
Ken.
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11-01-22, 08:46 AM
