The ejector pump for my basement bathroom wasn't pumping. Thankfully this bathroom never gets used but every month or so I run the sink water through pump just to make sure I hear it working. Well today it wasn't moving water. The pump itself works when plugged directly into the outlet but when plugged into the switch plug, the pump will not turn on. So either the switch is faulty or the maybe the buoy is stuck, not sure just yet.

When I started to remove the coupler from the vent pipe, the base snapped off from the bolts and the lid is essentially rotted. At this point I stopped and I'm trying to figure my options.

First, I have no idea how old the pump is. House was built in 1987 and I bought 6 years ago. Pump could be from '87 for all I know but still works. I have no idea what material the the basin and lid are made of. If the lid is rotted like you can see in the pics, can I assume the basin will do the same? Im thinking once I remove the lid the whole unit is compromised and wont seal correctly.

Does this look like a complete overhaul and replacement of everything is needed? Any chance a new lid would be compatible and perhaps install a new swtich? I suppose I really need to take the whole lid off to see what Im working with but Im just throwing it out there.

If a new basin and pump is needed, any recommendations for good quality parts. Buy once, cry once

 

The lid is rusted completely through and needs replacing. Good luck because it appears to be a can of worms project. You'll have fun getting the bolts loose, then I don't think you will find a replacement lid. You might be able to have a local welding/fabrication shop make a new steel or stainless (expensive) lid. I don't know if a modern plastic lid will fit since the lid and sump are usually sold as a pair.

 

Perhaps not as a terrible as expected. The lid was completely rotted. The tank itself appears to be in decent shape but I am no expert. I left it full with water overnight and its not leaking. I believe its made of fiberglass but not sure. When I applied pressure to the base of the tank with a pole it felt like it had a bubble in it (if that makes sense). Maybe its becoming brittle also?

When I put the float in the fully upright and upside position the pump turns on. However, I had the tank full with water before removing the pump and it would not activate. Maybe it was stuck?

The diameter of the lid is 20.75" and the inner diameter of the tank is 17.75". There are 4 bolt holes but there are no threads. Maybe this lid?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...000E/204733083

So the pump works and the float works now but easy enough to replace since maybe its worn. Not sure of the pump age either. Clearly need a new lid.

As far as the float is concerned, why would it have been placed in a position that always leaves a minimum of 10-14" of liquids in the tank? What is optimal non-activated height?

 

"...why would it have been placed in a position that always leaves a minimum of 10-14" of liquids in the tank?"
Because there probably wasn't room for the float switch. In order for it to work at lower water levels the float must have enough room to move all the way down to the bottom of the tank without snagging or jamming on anything. The sump is small and with the pump in the bottom there isn't much room left. So, the switch is set to do it's think in the open space higher up.

Rod type floats work better when you want a large tidal range in the sump. Because the float is mounted on a rod it's position is more fixed and you can position them so they don't jam. Free floating switches need more room to work.

 

Makes sense. Zoeller is probably the way to go