Got
Just finished buying parts for this project.
Got a new EverBuilt jet pump at the end of a line of stuff including a filter coming off of 1" black pipe with a foot valve at the other end. I'm ready to cut some pipe and glue it together.
Before I do this does anyone see a better set up ?
Is a there chance their would be a problem closing the valve and using the air adapter to drain the water once the foot valve is removed ?
Thanks.
Not exactly sure what you are doing there but it is vital to keep the line between the bottom of the pit and the input of the pump very simple. Any tiny leak will allow the system to lose prime and would be hard to locate.
I like to see the line coming out of the ground go directly to the pump.
A check valve is not required unless the foot valve at the base of the pit won't seal.
You certainly have come up with a complex group of fittings. I would remove all of it honestly. The check valve, and shutoff valve aren't needed and I have no idea how you'd use the air valve. After all, you don't want to add air.
Where is the pressure switch in your system? This is needed to turn the pump on and off. Many prefer to install it between the pump and filter. That way, if the filter clogs, the switch will turn off the pump.
Why are you talking about removing the foot valve? Are you planning on pulling the well to drain the system?
Thanks very much for the input.
The water line is in a lake about 200 ft away from the pump. I've had a pump for years and wanted to keep anything from going into this new pump but water. Next I want to pull off the foot valve and blow air through it to drain the line. I will remove the check valve if that isn't going to do anything.
One of the easiest ways to drain the intake line is to remove the foot valve. Then open the piping near the pump or a faucet in the house or irrigation system to allow the piping to vent and drain by gravity.
If there are low spots in the intake pipe that can hold water you can use air to blow out the line. A Schrader (tire) fitting isn't good. It is so small that air cannot enter the pipe fast enough to blow out the pipe. The air just bubbles past the water without blowing it out. You need a piped connection so you can dump a lot of air into the intake pipe very quickly.
You want the intake as clear and free running as possible. This means no filter and you can remove the check valve since there is one in the foot valve. It also helps to avoid 90° fittings as they hurt flow. Keep the intake piping as clean, short and straight as possible. Restrictions like the filter, check valve and extra piping will slow the priming process.
If you are worried about debris getting into the system install a spigot or quarter turn valve after the pump. I'm calling that the "dump faucet" Turn everything off that you supply water to or install a ball valve after the dump faucet. When you close that valve the dirty water from the lake doesn't get past that closed valve. Then when the pump is primed and ready to work, open the dump faucet and let the water run until it runs clear. This will flush debris out of the system. After it's running clear close your dump valve and open the shutoff valve to allow the cleaner water to go into the rest of your system.
Let me begin by saying I don’t know if this is a problem. I noticed a small puddle near the pressure tank. I found the source of the water to be the conduit with the power lines to the well. The pump is in the well, maybe 75-100’ down. The well is located uphill from my house with the top about level with head height on the first floor. The pressure tank is in the basement, so maybe 8’ below that. We have had a lot of rain over the last month so the water level in the well could be high but I haven’t looked. Other than dealing with the water in my basement, is this a problem and what should I do? Read More
For a while what I think is a check valve has been leaking a little bit, it's to the right of the 'T' from the holding tank, toward the well side. Also, the pressure drops on it's own, so the pump is turning on every hour+ or so. Is there also a check valve with the pump itself in the well? In 2010 it was converted to a submerged pump system from a jet pump inside the basement. The holding tank was replaced about 8 years ago, and was told it's waterlogged and is due to be replaced again.
I will need to have the system serviced professionally. For now, I've installed a temporary pump on/off switch to remove power to the pressure switch. I didn't want to keep using the circuit breaker to turn it off, not sure if they're designed tor frequent turning off/on. The switch is at the top of the basement stairwell with 12/2 wire. Would it be ok to let the pressure go quite low - as would happen if off overnight? I know the pump would then have to run for a while, but I've heard what wears and electrical motor out is the starting procedure. During extended power outages it's recovered fine, including one in October 2011 where an early snowstorm caused power to be out for I think 9 days.
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