Failed Proflo 32 Gallon pressure tank need some advice please


  #1  
Old 05-12-24, 09:16 AM
J
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Failed Proflo 32 Gallon pressure tank need some advice please

My 32 gallon ProFlo pressure tank has failed on me. It holds air for about 2 weeks. I have been limping along for too long.

I am not a plumber but thanks to this forum over the years my skills are improving.

A replacement unit costs over 600 bucks. This unit has lasted about 10 years. (Looks to be discontinued on sites besides Ferguson). Maybe price is high due to low demand. EDIT...I could not even register at Ferguson as a non-business (not sure if that is by design) so it looks like the pressure tank is $727+ tax for me.

https://www.ferguson.com/product/pro...s/7165340.html

I am leaning towards the same replacement unit to try and keep it simple but I am wondering if other units have the same form factor and are pretty much plug and play. Again, I want to reduce trips to the hardware store and guessing.

Waterworks units are only $289 shipped. X-trols are still cheaper than this unit and come with additional hardware....

https://www.amazon.com/WELL-X-TROL-W..._hp_atf_m&th=1

What would you do here?

Also, can you tell from these pictures if I will need to do any cutting with these fittings the way that they are if I just get another ProFlo?

Thanks!




 

Last edited by jj94auto; 05-12-24 at 09:57 AM.
  #2  
Old 05-12-24, 10:41 AM
Z
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Double check me - I may be wrong. But I think that X-Trol tank you linked to is only a 20 gal tank. I think this would be the replacement instead:

Amtrol-Well-X-Trol 34 Gallon Water System Pressure Tank - WX-205: Hydraulic Tanks: Amazon.com: Tools & Home Improvement
 
  #3  
Old 05-12-24, 01:04 PM
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@zoesdad......It's not very evident but there are 3 options at the bottom. WX203 is the highlighted one which is the 32 gallon version.

It is slightly more clear on ebay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/27554144379...&segname=11050

 
  #4  
Old 05-12-24, 03:28 PM
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union circled

jj -


Yep - you are right. My bad. I have a Well-X-Trol catalogue on my PC but misread the line for the 203.

I had an A.O. Smith tank that I replaced with a Well-X-Trol tank several years ago. My understanding is that the Well-X-Trol is supposed to be a good quality tank. But I don't know how it would compare to the ProFlo.

I'm no expert for sure. Maybe one of the experts will weigh in. I don't see a union on the tank tee in your setup. In the pic I circled a union. That would allow you to disconnect the old tank at that point and connect the new tank in at that point. I didn't have a union either in my old setup, but I added one in the new setup - just as shown in the pic.

I'm trying to remember how I got the old one out. I think I probably just cut the pipe since I was redoing everything.

I think most tanks have a 90-degree female-thread elbow at the bottom. You connect the tank to your tee from that elbow. So, in other words, that pipe end from the union at the top of the picture, would be connected into the elbow under the tank.

But since you don't have a union, I think you will have to do it a different way. If that white pipe on the right is PEX then that looks like a threaded connection. It looks like pipe in the left might be CPVC - or is that PVC or PEX.

If the connection on the right side of the tee can be loosened that might help. But if the one on the left, that looks like CPVC, can't be turned, I think you would have to make a cut there. In other words, if you could get both sides of the tank tee free, you could unscrew it from your current tank.

Then I think you could screw it into the new tank. But I'm not sure how you would reconnect it back into the pipes coming in from the right and left into the tee. If you had to make a cut to get it out, maybe a CPVC repair coupling would help.

But, I'm certainly no expert and hopefully one of the experts will weigh in and see something easier. I think when these tanks are installed without a union, they make it more difficult to replace.



 
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  #5  
Old 05-12-24, 04:00 PM
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@zoesdad

Thanks very much for your thoughts. I think I realized the union part at the same time as you and then saw your post. I came to the same conclusion as you actually. I do think that both sides will turn actually but I could be wrong. I guess I should be prepared to cut the pipe none the less. Wouldn't be my first or last time that's why I like to avoid it though lol.

I am thinking that if a union wouldn't be horribly necessary *if* both sides turn.

If that is the case I might just hold my breath and cross my toes and just get a big box store water works unit for half the price especially since the infrastructure is in place. This is provided that the existing unit is 1 1/4 NPT and the water works unit is 1 1/4 NPT at the elbow going into the water tank. Same for the Ebay/Amazon Well X-Trol unit. Documentation is kind of hard to find and even when I do find it I can't help but question the reliability as models change over time etc.

Really torn on this. This is not a job I want to be doing too often but it will be easier next time.
 
  #6  
Old 05-13-24, 04:17 PM
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It looks like they have a cross reference (first link) which indicates that the ProFlo PFX32S can be replaced with the Amtrol WX205 (second link, on page 6 it has info for connections). Looks like they both have 1 1/4 connections. I think also, if necessary, you can change sizes at the tank with a reducing bushing 1 1/4" x 1".

I think that's done sometimes and is OK. I'm pretty sure that's correct. But I agree, pays to check. Maybe an email to the manufacturer would verify sizes and whether a reducing bushing could be used if necessary. That is, if you find another tank that you want that is only 1 inch connection.

972982_PRF_SpecSheet_NATL_waterSystemTamksSpecSheetRev_v2.indd (bigcontent.io)


pricebook2023.pdf (amtrol.com)




 
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  #7  
Old 05-14-24, 09:48 AM
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jj -

I just remembered that in my old setup I didn't even have a standard tee like you have. It all came back to me. The tank was just on a standard copper tee and the pressure switch and gauge were about 6 feet away from the tee. They were where the well pipe came through the basement wall. But it all worked.

Anyway, I had a problem with the tank so I cut the copper pipe going to the tank so I could access the elbow at the bottom of the tank. I had planned to put the tank back and solder a coupling where I had cut the pipe. Anyway, long story short, I never could get the tank dry enough (kept dripping out of the elbow on the bottom) so I never could solder (has to be bone dry to solder).

So, I used a SharkBite coupling to connect the copper pipe where I had cut it. It was on there for years and worked great. Those SharkBite fittings are just push to connect. No soldering or glue needed. You just need the ends of the pipe cut straight. That's not hard to do. They can be used to connect copper, PEX, and CPVC together in any combination.

Maybe that's something you could look into. I think you will find that some people don't trust them but many people do. It seems though now there are many more people who accept them than not. Not sure though. I think some people say they wouldn't want to put one inside a wall. But that also may be changing.

But, anyway, in case you are interested, below is a link to a coupling page on the SharkBite web site. There are also many videos on Youtube that address those fittings.

I think SharkBites have also been discussed many times on the plumbing forum here.



Brass Push Pipe Coupling | SharkBite


Forgot to say I have put in a standard tank tee like you have when I replaced the tank I was talking about above. I confused things a little. Sounded like I still have that old tank with the SharkBite. Not so. No longer needed because I replaced the tank and added a tee with a union like you pointed to in your post.




 

Last edited by zoesdad; 05-14-24 at 12:21 PM. Reason: added "Forgot to say ...
 

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