Loss of water pressure with multiple draws


  #1  
Old 05-20-24, 06:59 PM
R
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Loss of water pressure with multiple draws

Hoping to get a little help with a problem that showed up today. We are getting a loss of water pressure when there are multiple draws on the system. Seems to be more when the washer or a toilet if flushed then trying to use a faucet.

Background:
We were having an issue that appeared to be a well pump pressure switch where we would lose water pressure for a little bit then it would come back most to the time we cycled the well pump switch on and off. So I decided it was time to replace the well pump pressure switch. We also have a neutralizer on the system that needed calcite added. So yesterday afternoon, I started by adding calcite to the neutralizer. I left about 15inches of water at the top of the neutralizer, so I didn't fill that up to the top.

Then I decided to flush the hot water tank as I hadn't done that in a while so I drained that and flushed it then filled it back up.

After I did those two things, I turned the power off the pump. I replaced with pressure switch with a new one. When I took off the cover for the old one I found the hot lead coming into the switch was lose, I could have taken it off without a screwdriver. I decided to replace the switch anyways. I closed the valve to the house side. Attached a hose to the drain valve and opened it up to let it drain out. It got down to about 10 psi but wouldn't go lower. So I took the switch off anyways. Yes I got wet and had some grit and dirt come with it. The water continued to flow out of the nipple like there was still pressure in there because I even put me finger over the nipple that holds the switch, and then it wanted to spurt out like it built up pressure. I put the new switch on, and got it hooked back up no leaks were noticed.

I tested the pressure in the holding tank. It was at 30lbs. So I added some air to it and got it to 38lbs as told to keep it 2lbs less than the pressure switch kick on psi. I turned the power back onto the system and watched the gauge. It was actually turning on at 50psi and kicking off at 70psi, even though it claimed by the box and the cover to be a 40-60psi switch. I was concerned about the difference in pressure so I adjusted it back to 40-60psi. I never really got it to a clear 40psi for kicking on. It would hover around 42psi, then drop down very quickly to somewhere around 36-38psi and then the pump would kick in. i could not get the switch to kick in smoothly at 40psi. It would hover around 42 and kick in or quickly drop to the 36-38 area and then kick in. I have it kicking off and holding at 60psi no issues there. I thought (problem #1 lol), that I was good to go and it would be fine.

Then today when I got home from work my wife informed me that when she was doing some laundry the pressure at the faucet was very low. I see the pressure switch still doing what I described above for the kicking on and off. I did put the air gauge back on the take (power still going to the pump) and it read about 50 psi. I am not sure if that is right. I tried letting air back out to get to 38, but didn't really seem to go down as I was expecting so I left it be for now. I don't know enough about the workings of the system to know if that is ok or not.

Sort of at a loss now. Until the pressure switch yesterday our water pressure was great (minus those little blips from time to time). Most of the time those times seemed to be if we lost power or if I turned the water off to do some repair or while remodeling the kitchen. So I attributed it mostly to those things.

I am not the original owner so what information I have about the system has come from different events.
Well: 275ft deep.
Pump is a 1hp pump not original, but not sure how old. It tested good 1 1/2 years ago when we had an issue with pressure only to find a broken pipe in the detached garage and we were sucking up a lot of grit at that point because the pump was running a lot.
Pressure tank looks to be about 8 years old maybe. Really clean.

Not sure what else anyone would need information wise. but this is the what I currently have.

Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thank you
 
  #2  
Old 05-20-24, 07:20 PM
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Welcome to the forums.

You need a good and correctly working gauge.
The pressure switches come right out of the box at the intended settings on the label.
If your switch was acting erratically.... it's because it's not seeing the actual water pressure.
If it's connected with a metal pipe stub.... that stub may be clogged.

Posting a few pictures of your setup can be very helpful...... How to insert pictures.
 
  #3  
Old 05-21-24, 04:20 PM
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Hi rdbnease -


(1) I'm not an expert. But I do maintenance on my system. I also have an AN Filter with Calcite. I think if you don't backwash the filter enough (I'm no one to talk-lol) the Calcite can cake up and you lose water pressure in the house. Just mentioning that because I've chased problems already and it was because I forgot to maintain filters and I started losing pressure.

(2) I think Pjmax is right, you need to ensure you have a good working gauge. Those are pretty cheap and easy to install.

(3) I'm pretty sure you have to get the water pressure to zero before you can adjust the air pressure in the tank. I think now you really don't know what the air pressure is in your tank. I would put in a new gauge and then drain the tank completely and make sure the pressure goes to zero on the gauge. Maybe the drain valve isn't operating properly. Maybe you could remove the drain valve and see if more water comes out of the opening with the valve removed.

(4) If you can get the water pressure to zero and then the tank air pressure set to 38, then maybe you could put the old switch back on and see what happens. Or if you remember how many turns you used to adjust the new switch maybe you could reverse the adjustment and use the new switch and see what happens.

As previously stated, the switches come out of the box set correctly.

Just MHO!


 
  #4  
Old 05-24-24, 08:21 AM
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"" I'm pretty sure you have to get the water pressure to zero before you can adjust the air pressure in the tank. ""

Correct. The air pressure as measured will be the pressure tank preset pressure or the system water pressure whichever is greater, and in the latter case the air pressure measurement is meaningless..

"" ... flush the hot water tank as I hadn't done that in a while so I drained that ... ""

Warning hopefully not too late. The water heater can be damaged if its heat is not shut off and kept off while its tank is not full. Vacation setting is not low enough. See water gushing from a hot faucet upstairs for a full minute before turning the water heater heat back on.

Some pump pressure switches are fickle. You may need to go back and forth between two adjustments to get both the cut in and cut out pressure settings to what you want.

 
 

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