I had to redo my project because I couldn't get the doors right on it, they wouldn't close right or open all the way, so I discovered that I should be using european blum hinges and the doors should go on first then add the rest of the panels, but I want some feedback or advise .

 

Sounds more like a statement. What specifically is your question?

 

I'd be afraid of the doors letting all the water out. Can't you use glass??

 

I don't understand the first reply, and to the second reply, I think I pretty much know what I did wrong in the beginning and what to do to correct it but I could be wrong so I'm asking for feedback on my post.

 

You know, as I tell my wife, YOU know what you are talking about, I don't. Could you give us a little background information regarding what your project entails, where you think it went wrong, post pictures if you have them. We have no idea from you original post what you have going on. As far as the first reply, XSleeper was taking your post and letting you know there were no questions mentioned, so we couldn't answer them. As to my post, I have never seen doors on an aquarium. Fill us in.

 

Here's the original question on this project.....and there wasn't any info there either...http://www.doityourself.com/forum/wo...ml#post2060345

 

Not sure how else to ask for more information.

 

Oh, my bad, Lol so what type of info you need ?

 

I'm sorry it was late when I posted this thread I meant my aquarium stand I'm building, Lol

 

The sort of info that will probably keep you from being banned shortly. (lol) Assuming you have a valid question you would like to have answered, of course. We're here to help but don't really have any desire to play 20 questions. So if you'd like to describe in detail what you are doing so that we can also picture it... then when you ask a specific question, perhaps we can answer it with a specific answer. Unless you'd like us to continue using generalities.

 

I agree, Brant. Total waste of time if there are no specific questions to answer. Next post will tell the tale, IMO. I don't have the time.

 

I'm sorry people I guess I've pissed you off, I admit I titled it wrong I was asking for opinions on using european hinges on the doors to the aquarium stand and should I put the doors on first before adding the other panels.I'll try and add pictures and the doors are gonna be on both sides it will be a walk around tank

I took the stand doors and panels off because the doors wouldn't open all the way and they wasn't fitting right, I didn't know about European Blum hinges then but now I do and my question is am I making the right moves ?

 

Does the aquarium set on top? If so why do you need doors on both sides and why do they need to open fully?

<opinion>I sure wouldn't you strand board on something that might get wet. I know they use it on roofs but I have also seen it after water got past the shingles. Just mush you could put your hand through.</opinion>

 

Yes the aquarium is gonna sit on top, Lol, and the doors are for me to be able to get at the filteration it will be drilled from the bottom, and I will be using hardboard for the outter skin of the stand.

 

Yeah I don't know... for simplicity's sake I wonder if you might be better off just using the old standard type of variable overlay cabinet door hinge. It would be so much simpler, and it might save you a lot of headaches.



image credit: lowes dot com

You would make the cabinet doors a little bigger than the finished opening (perhaps 1" taller and wider than the opening) and you would just center them and screw them onto the base cabinet after you have applied all your hardboard panelling.

Thanks for the pictures and good explanation of what you're doing. Now we can see what you're talking about!

 

I tried them, and I dont want the doors to be outside the stand, I want the the doors to be flush with the other panels and I've been doing research and european hinges are concealed and adjustable but my question was should I install the doors first ?

 

I see. Well at the soonest, I don't think you would install them until your hardboard panels were on, so that you get the depth right. You might ensure that the openings are perfectly square by either measuring the diagonals, or test fitting a door panel into the opening. With an inset door in a rough frame like that you will probably end up fussing with the edges of every door to get the reveals just right. So I'd suggest they be installed last.

In your photos I noticed the osb doesn't completely cover the bottom plate. The whole thing looks very sturdy but you might like to have that osb completely covering the bottom plate and secured to the entire perimeter. Maybe it is and just doesn't look like it in the photo?

I think I'd also recommend additional osb panels on the interior pair of 4x4's. Just like the narrow ends, but on the inside 4x4's to help keep the center from buckling or wiggling out of square. 210 gallons is a lot of weight! 1680 lbs? I hope it will be setting on a cement floor!

 

First because I'm not a pro or master woodsman, Lol, what is osb ? and so I should put the other panels back on ? install the hardboard dry run the doors before finally installing them ? and runn the hardboard completely to the floor ?
Now those are old pic's of the stand since then I have reenforced it with so more stablizing boards because your right with a 210 gallon thats gonna be alot of weight and it will be on a concrete floor.

 

New pix are in order, then. OSB is oriented strand board, or what you have on the face of the frame, now.

 

I doubt if OSB is strong enough to hold its shape for the door unless it has reinforcing. I doubt it will even hold the screws for the hinges for long. Marine grade 3/4" plywood would have been a much better choice.

 

I guess I would have assumed that he is using 3/4" MDF (medium density fiberboard) for the cabinet doors to somewhat match the hardboard he is planning on using as paneling. With the Blum inset hinges the doors will have to be 3/4" thick, no matter what the material is.

 

I assumed Masonite not MDF but neither is something I'd want to use around water. When I hear hardboard I think Masonite.
O/P wrote: No mention of doors or using fiber board.

 

Yes, tempered hardboard is also commonly referred to as "masonite". So I'm assuming he's covering the shell of his stand with something like 1/4" tempered hardboard, which he mentioned in another thread. And I'm hoping he's using MDF for the doors but the exact material is unknown. We're getting a clearer picture of the project as we go along, I guess. I wouldn't think any of this would be getting wet since if it does the aquarium has problems!

 

Oh Ok see I learned something new

 

Are you going to make us guess what it is?

 

I thought everyone here knows its a Stand/Cabinet for my 210 gallon fish tank, I read all the reply's to what I'm doing and I invite all the feedback and I'm sure all of you have more experience then I do in building things, and I'm cool with that and so I'll take all your comments and make the changes I need to make, and thank you again.

 

What type of filtration will your tank have? Is any of it going to be located in the base? If you are puting a wet/dry filter or protein tower in the cabinet I would apply several coats of oil based polyurethane or oil based to all the interior wood parts. Having the back of the cabinet open will help a lot with the moisture but most OSB & particle board don't handle moisture well.

 

Dane has expressed my concerns about materials chosen much better then I did. It is small amounts of moisture either accidental drips or moisture in air that can add up over time with materials that absorb moisture.