An anti sway bar, also known as a stabilizer bar or anti roll bar, functions to keep the vehicle lower and flatter, which improves traction. It is also helpful to prevent a body from rolling. A body roll is where the car tends to load up on the outside tires of a vehicle where traction is reduced and simply messes up the steering. The anti sway bar helps for the suspension to be less independent. It helps transfer weight from the outside and moves the weight inside the tires to produce better traction. If the sway bar is too rigid, the sway bar will transfer bumps on the road to the other side.
Step 1 – Lift the Vehicle
You may also use a floor jack and jack stands to safely support your vehicle while you are installing an anti sway bar.
Step 2 – Remove the End Links
Remove the rear sway bar end links. Use two wrenches to loosen the nut and the other in between the sway bay and endlink to keep the stud from spinning.
Step 3 – Remove the Supporting Bolts
Remove the 2 bolts supporting the driver’s side muffler to the Y-pipe. Sway the muffler out of the way.
Step 4 – Remove the Strap Bolts
Remove the bolts that hold the stock sway bar bushing strap, 2 of them on each side. Be sure to remember the orientation of the sway bar while removing the bushings. You will need this for the new sway bar you will install.
Step 5 – Move the Sway Bar
Move the sway bar around the exhaust on the passenger side, taking advantage of the room you have made on the driver’s side you freed when you moved the muffler earlier. Apply grease to lubricate the new bushings.
Step 6 – Remove Bolts
Remove the bolts from the subframe and slide the reinforcement brackets in the middle of the subframe and chassis. Do this while supporting the differential housing.
Step 7 – Install the Bracket
Install the bracket with a concave side towards the rear, and then move the sway bar bushing strap and make sure it is aligned with the other holes. Use the provided bolts, nuts and washers with your anti sway bar, secure the bushings straps and torque the bolts using around 35 foot per pound. Torque the subframe bolts to about 100 foot pounds as soon as the other brackets are securely tightened and aligned.
Step 8 - Reinstall the Links
Re-install the rear end links making sure that the hole closer to the tip is a softer setting around 195 percent stiffer than the factory bar and the other is a stiffer setting 215 percent stiffer. It will be depending on the condition but the softer setting is recommended.
Step 9 – Remove the Brace
Remove the subframe brace by removing the bolts in the front of the vehicle. Use a box wrench to hold up the two nuts above the subframe from spinning on the front of the brace. The front endlinks will need a wrench and a Allen wrench to be removed. The stud, which the nut is around, has an Allen hole on the end to prevent it from free-spinning while you are removing it.
Step 10 – Remove the Straps
Remove the factory bushing straps and make sure to support the sway bar to prevent it from falling. Take note of the orientation below the tie-rod ends. Install the end links using an Allen wrench to the anti sway bar. Reusing the factory bolt and nut, install the sway bar, ensuring that it's rotated correctly and not installed upside down.
Step 11 – Reinstall Front End Links
Reinstall the front end links. Torque to approximately 40 foot per pound. It is recommended to use Loctite to ensure it will not loosen.
Step 12 – Return the Brace
Return the subframe brace. Put back the bolts loosely, then torque them to about 55 foot pounds once threaded.