Installing a Deadbolt 7 - The Strike Plate Installing a Deadbolt 7 - The Strike Plate
Door Security - Deadbolts - Install - Template - Drill - Spring Latch Plate - Strikeplate
Margin of Error: Exact
Most Common Mistakes
- Not aligning strike plate with spring
- Installing strike plate in old hole formed by previous strike plate.
- Not using long screws.
After your entrance lock is in and properly functioning, you can install the strike plate in the frame of the door. As I mentioned earlier, be sure that you are not installing this over the hole created by the previous strike plate, or you will not have good wood to bite into. Of course, it is a little late to be thinking about this now, since the plate must align with the spring latch of the lock you just installed. Just be sure that this alignment is exact so the latch will easily insert into the plate and metal liner.
The strike plate is often a three-part assembly made up of a strike frame reinforce, metal liner, and finished strike plate. The metal liner often requires a rather large hole. To create this hole you can usually drill two smaller holes and chisel this out to create one large hole. Locate the exact center of the strike plate on the frame and drill two holes with a 7/8" bit, one 3/8" above this point and one 3/8" below (refer to manufacturer's instructions). After these two holes are drilled, forming a figure-eight pattern, chisel out the wood to create one hole that the metal sleeve can tightly fit into. Be fore installing the metal liner, install the rough strike plate. Again, use two long (3") screws to penetrate into the wall frame. Be sure to drill pilot holes first. Next, insert the metal liner and then screw in the finished strike plate. Test your lock If it works smoothly and correctly, pat yourself on the back If it doesn't, make the needed adjustments.