This article is intended to be an expansion of the article How To Build A Heavy Duty Sawhorse Part 1. This article assumes that a standard sawhorse has been built in part one and the additional supports, braces, and structural attachments are being fitted in this article.
- 2 – 2x6's cut to 30 inches (horizontal stretchers)
- 1 – 2x6 cut to 36 inches (top crossbar)
- 2 – 2x6's cut to 32 inches with a 15 degree opposing miter (lower leg braces)
- 2 – 2x6's cut to 16 inches with a 15 degree opposing miter (upper leg braces)
- 3 inch galvanized wood screws
- Power Drill
- Miter Saw
- Tape measure
- Radial saw (optional)
- Wood Glue (optional)
Step 1 - Securing the horizontal stretchers
Use the 30 inch 2x6's to span the horizontal sides of the sawhorse. Secure each side with 3 to 4 wood screws approximately 15 inches from the bases. Make sure the stretcher on the corresponding side is equally spaced from the base to allow for leveling. Leave enough clearance to allow for boards to be inserted between two sawhorses to span for cutting, using as a table, or as a lower level of scaffolding when necessary.
Step 2 – Establishing Lower Leg Braces
Use the 32 inch 2x6 to create the lower leg braces. Place the 2x6 below the established 2x4 stretcher adjusting to the appropriate height for the edges to be flush. Secure with two 3 inch wood screws. If there is any excess length, secure the leg brace with screws and then trim with a radial saw.
Step 3 – Establishing Upper Leg Braces
Use the 16 inch 2x6 boards to create upper leg braces. Place the brace above the 2x4 stretcher adjusting the height of the brace to meet flush with the edges. Secure with two 3 inch wood screws. By establishing various heights of side braces, there are multiple heights to hang or support various boards while working on different projects.
Step 4 – Securing the Top Crossbar
Use the last 2x6 piece to secure across the top of the crossbar. Drill the board in place horizontally on top of the vertically oriented crossbar. Be sure to space screws approximately every 8 inches, being wary of the metal sawhorse bracket holding the legs in place.
If the sawhorses are meant to be permanent, counter sink all your wood screws and then cover with a dab of wood glue to seal them. The wood glue can also be used in between the boards before securing with screws. This added protection secures the screws from the elements and keep rusting to a minimum. Even with galvanized screws, the wood glue can greatly add to the life of your sawhorse. In addition, countersinking the screws will insure that the screws don't mar any delicate projects you may be working on. The glue can also help in the colder and hotter times of the year to combat the expansion and contraction of the wood.