How to Install a Sewage Ejector Pump

What You'll Need
Full-flow check valve
Float switch
Necessary tools
Caulk or heavy-duty glue

A sewer ejector pump can be installed without the help of an expensive plumber. This is a necessary job for many bathrooms and laundry rooms. The pump will allow you to flush excess water directly in to the sewer lines below you. If you can purchase the parts yourself, and follow some simple directions, you can do this job in just a few hours. You have the option of purchasing all the parts separately, or you can purchase an ejector pump kit that will have everything you need. It may be a little more expensive to purchase a kit, but you will save yourself the hassle of tracking down the parts individually. It will also include detailed directions, making the job easier.

Step 1 - Mount the Basin

You will need to mount the basin to the floor, and attach the pump to the bottom of it. You will want to make sure that it is not wobbly. An unsteady pump can tip, lean, and fall over when water hits it. You can secure it in place with caulk, or other hard hold glue. The basin should be securely placed in the ground as well to prevent any leakage, or cracks. The water will be drained into the basin when the toilets are flushed, and then brought down through the pump, and then back to the main line to the sewage.

Step 2 - Setting Up Float Switches

The water level should rise high enough to reach the float switch. This is placed on top of the pump. It will need to be secured in a fashion that allows the trigger to point down towards the basin. You can secure this with heavy-duty glue. Once the fluid reaches the float switch, it will turn the pump on, suctioning the fluid up through the check valve and in to the drain you are using. Make sure the vent outlet is not plugged or clogged. It should have a clear 3 inch opening with a rubber grommet within it. The outlet for the discharge should also not be plugged, and should show as a 2 inch non-threaded opening into the main line of your sewage system.

Step 3 - Piping and Test

The side inlet should be set up for a 4 inch drain pipe, or if you prefer to use a smaller, 3 inch one, this will do as well. You should then check your toilet, and drains to make sure that it is draining the way it should be without flooding the yard. If you think that the basin or pump is leaking, you will need to readjust it, or add more caulk to the seams to make sure that it is secure. You do not want to leave the pump leaking since it can cause rust, or cracks within the system. This would mean that you would have to replace the basin, as well as pump again.