How to Replace a Water Control Valve How to Replace a Water Control Valve

What You'll Need
Open end wrench
Pipe wrench (for bigger valve)
Crescent
Channel lock pliers

A water control valve is normally called a "Ballcock", and as the name says, it controls the flow of water. It turns on when water comes into it and turns off when the water is up to the marked "waterline". Water control valves or relative valves have power-operated mechanism; they stop the surge of hot water to the heater hub, and also regulate the pressure rate in a course of action. If you see on a larger scale, water control gates control the accumulation of water in varied environmental processes. You can easily replace a water control valve. Here are some simple steps to follow.

Step 1 – Get a New Valve

The first step is to get a valve that is a facsimile of the valve that you are trying to replace in terms of type, size, and thread. All fittings are not the same, i.e., iron pipe fittings and compression fittings are not interchangeable.

Step 2 - Detach the Tap Supply Line from the Control Valve with the Wrench.

The principle of a control valve is to detach the piece following the valve from the rest of the structure; so the whole supply of water has to be shut off for the short-term. It means that you have to sap some water out first. If the control valve is placed in an underground store or at the first floor, you should drain out the water above. And if you have a second floor, first go outside and open a tap outside, by doing this you can save your cabinets and floor from soaking. It is necessary to have a look at the entire valve. If it is at the end of a row, there must be a bendy supply line, which connects the regulator to the valve. In case of compression control valve, you don’t have to replace the supply pipes. You just have to unbolt the compression nut and then take out the old valve.

Step 3 - Remove the Valve

Remove the valve with the wrench. You might need two wrenches for bigger valve, one for holding the pipe and other for turning the valve. If you have ½ rigid copper supply pipes, then you need to have a compression fitting to fix the valve. But if you have threaded electrified iron, you need to have an iron-pipe thread valve. You must look at the pipe you are stringing it off of and try not to twist the pipe. If it is twisted you must put an additional wrench on the pipe. Then you would use the suitable pipe joint compound to the pipe gears.

Step 4 - Install the New Valve

First you should tighten the new valve with the wrench so it is properly snug. Then turn off new valve. Before turning the water back on make sure that you have turned off the drains that you opened before. In case of leakage in the valve or air in the pipeline, it is possible that there is no water in the valve.

Step 5 - Reconnect the Supply Line

Mostly water supply lines don't entail pipe compound. If you have a flexible line, then you must check the o-ring. Turn on the water valve and check for leakage again. Tighten if it is required, then re-examine with foamy water.

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