While the manufacturer Forbo recommends that a Marmoleum floor be laid by a professional installer, a small area such as a bathroom can be installed by the homeowner. Marmoleum is a certified ‘green’ product by LEED’s. With the patented ‘Top-Shield,’ Marmoleum is factory sealed and is very easy to maintain.
Tools and Materials Needed:
- Birch underlayment
- 1 1/4 inches ring shaft nails
- Punch (to set nails)
- Wood filler
- 100-grit sandpaper
- Utility knife
- Forbo L-910 floor glue
- 1/16 by 1/16 by 1/16 inches notched trowel
- Marmoleum sheet flooring
Step 1 - Underlayment
While making preparations, allow the Marmoleum floor to acclimate to the room for at least 48 hours. Remove the toilet and vanity or sink if possible. Remove any other obstructions (baseboards, threshold, doorjambs, etc.). Attach birch underlayment to floor with 1 1/4 inches ring shaft nails with a hammer. Use the punch to set nail heads even with the underlay surface. Fill any nail heads that form a dimple in the wood with wood filler. Allow to dry and sand lightly with 100-grit sandpaper.
Step 2 - Rough Cut Marmoleum
While the Marmoleum floor is acclimating, it is a good idea to lay it out such that the ends uncurl for installation. Measure the length of the room. Adding 3 inches to each end, cut the Marmoleum to the room length plus 6 inches. Push the Marmoleum snug to the wall, allowing the ends to lap up the side walls (2 to 3 inches each end). Holding the flooring to the wall, using a minimum width scribe of 3/8 inches wider than where the largest gap occurs (you want to cut a minimum of 3/8 inches from the length of the flooring), scribe the Marmoleum floor so it will be cut to follow the wall contours perfectly. Use a hooked blade knife and cut along the scribed line, hold the blade at an angle to undercut the edge. Trim the opposite edge of the length with a Forbo seam and strip cutter if seaming of an additional piece is required. If the bathroom requires more than one piece, draw a line on the subfloor along the outside edge of the sheet.
Step 3 - Glue Marmoleum
Roll back half of the sheet. With the 1/16 inches notched trowel, spread the Forbo L-910 adhesive allowing 5 to 6 feet unglued at either end. If the room is less than 12 feet long, just glue the center of the vinyl to allow for proper fitting of the ends of the sheet. Roll glued area with 100-pound roller, both directions (width then length).
Step 3 - Fitting Ends
With a pencil, at least 6 inches from one end use a straight edge to draw a line across the edge of the Marmoleum and onto the sub-floor (marks where the linoleum falls when fully extended). Now, slide the edge of the Marmoleum floor back along the pencil line from Step 1. With the scribe, measure the distance between the mark on the sub-floor and the mark on the Marmoleum (this is the exact length that must be cut from that end). With this scribe setting, scribe the edge of the flooring, cut as in Step 1. Repeat for the other end. Measure all other areas to be cut (toilet flange, plumbing lines, vanity if it could not be removed). Make all cuts beveled as in Step 1. Spread glue and wet set remainder of floor. Roll with 100-pound roller. Hand roll around wall and obstruction edges to set and flatten the Marmoleum floor.