Laminate Flooring: Large Format Plank Laminate Flooring: Large Format Plank
AT THIS TIME, PLEASE PUT ON YOUR SAFETY GLASSES AND WEAR THEM FOR THE REMAINDER OF THE INSTALLATION.
- If the floor is concrete or below grade, lay out the foam with moisture barrier, overlap the edges 4 inches. Tape all seams together using duct tape. For other floors, lay the foam underlayment in the same direction the planks will be laid and butt the edges. Do not overlap. Tape as needed to hold.
- Inspect the large format laminate flooring for any defects. The installer is the final authority of the flooring.
DO NOT INSTALL ANY MATERIAL THAT MAY HAVE BEEN DAMAGED. THE MANUFACTURER'S WARRANTY MAY NOT APPLY.
Large Format Laminate Flooring - Laying the Large Format Laminate Flooring does not present any significant differences from other types of flooring. For the large format three-tile flooring, however, attention needs to be paid to alignment of the grout lines. The three-tile flooring can be installed to give the appearance of a "four-corner" installation or it can be staggered depending on the consumer's preference.
Installing large format planks:
1. For planning purposes, do a dry (no glue) layout of the first two rows. Starting in the left corner and leaving a minimum of ¼" space between the flooring and the wall, do a trial layout of the first two rows of large format flooring. The first plank should be laid with one tongue facing the installer and the other to the installer's right. As needed, saw the product to fit. Spacers should also be installed as a part of the planning process.
2. If it is necessary to cut one of the large format random parquet patterns, you may use that piece to start the second row. If using the three-tile product, ensure that the grout lines will match up or remain in alignment. Attempt to plan the installation so that the end pieces are a minimum of 8 inches long.
3. Once you have completed the dry lay out and are pleased with the results, it is time to start the installation. Gluing the joints properly is extremely important. Glue is applied by holding the piece upside down and placing a 1/16" to 1/8" of glue to the lower lip of the groove (see Figure 1). Begin by gluing the first two planks in the first row together. Once again, start in the left-hand corner and glue the first row together at the ends.
4. Then, glue the second row to the first. Push the planks together and then apply blue tape (or clamps) to hold the pieces together. Note: If glue is being forced to the surface or if the large format flooring is difficult to get together, you may be using too much glue. Use a dry cloth to remove excess glue.
5. For water resistance, the floor must be installed without gaps. If a gap should occur, matching laminate filler should be used. This will seal the core material and improve the appearance of the completed floor.
6. Continue to install the first two rows by pushing the large format flooring together. If needed, a tapping block may be used. Do not apply too much force to the tapping block as damage to the edges can occur. Hold the material together using the blue tape or clamps. Remove the tape when the glue is set, in approximately 8 hours. If the material will not go together even with use of the tapping block, stop the installation and attempt to find the reason for the problem (debris in the groove, damaged tongue, etc.)
7. Continue the installation, using clamps on each plank (or the blue tape for DIY installations), working from left to right, row after row. The installer should be alert to an out of rack condition that can be caused by allowing the floor to get out of square. The installer should check the floor to make sure that the installation remains square and straight.
8. Continue to ensure that adequate expansion space exists around the perimeter of the floor. For doorways, the door jam will have to be under cut. To fit the floor under a doorframe, use a piece of the product (a scrap will do) and foam (or the appropriate underlayment) next to the frame. Using that as a guide, saw the frame off. This will allow the flooring to slide under the frame and providing expansion space and a clean, finished appearance.
9. Around pipes, measure and drill holes at least ½" larger than the diameter of the pipe to provide adequate expansion. Apply the sealant in a smooth, continuous bead around the cutout. Once the sealant has been applied, wet your finger and force the sealant into the expansion space. If correctly applied the sealant should be approximately 1/16" above the surface of the flooring.
10. The last row will likely require additional cutting to fit. To determine the size needed, place a plank on top of the planks in the next to last row. Very carefully align the edges. Take a scrap piece of flooring (with tongue and groove) and trace the contour of the wall onto the plank to be cut. Then saw the plank accordingly.
11. Fit the cut planks into place using the pull bar. Then add the spacers to hold the joint firmly in place and apply the tape. Remove the tape when the glue is set in approximately 1 hour.
12. Replace existing molding with matching transition molding available from your local laminate flooring dealer. Remove spacers first and then nail or glue trim track to the floor. Snap transition into the track.
13. Clean the entire floor with laminate floor cleaner and use a dry towel, if needed, to buff dry. This process will remove any film left from the glue. For stubborn glue or other materials, use acetone on a clean cloth. Never use any abrasives on your laminate floor.
- To fit around pipes, measure and drill holes at least ½" larger than the diameter of the pipe to allow for movement. Saw at a 45 degree angle to the holes in the tile.
- Always protect the floor by using felt protectors for chairs and other heavy furniture. When moving furniture, lift and move before setting on the floor.